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  1. #21
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    In this the 19th chapter in the series, the casting on the pistons will be corrected along with a few measurement before we finally mount everything onto the engine. I took exception to the raised numbers on the face of the piston as well as the shotty ends of the valve reliefs. A dremel with polishing paste made quick work to soften these jagged edges that could cause hot spots in the combustion chamber. This was followed by a quick wrist pin measurement, by request and significant washing.

    Funny thing, these pistons have no indication as to placement, though not entirely symmetrical on the underside, having addressed this years ago, I reviewed older footage to make this determination. As the pistons are marked, I use the pins to check the wrist pin bushings with oil, pre staging the keepers on one side. All surfaces lubed, the pistons are mounted onto the rods followed by the second keeper.

    The rings are pre oiled and loaded onto the pistons. I take a moment to prepare a few dowels with supper 88 that will be used to steady the pistons during the loading of the cylinder. The dowels are set up under the pistons providing a secure platform. Correct cylinder, gasket and the placement is checked and rechecked. A process of cleaning is done to ensure the cylinder is perfectly clean inside and out. Dried and oiled as to not flash rust.

    The oil rings are checked for no overlap, sliding freely. Side clearance is checked and the correct opening skew between the rings is checked. Ive washed a rubber mallet and a ring compressor. oiled everything completely as the compressor is staged, the cylinder is lowered onto the chamfered margin, light taps with the mallet drop the cylinder over the rings, before the cylinder is completely lowered, the one bolt on each side for the heads is pre-loaded. The cylinder is then lowered down to the studs. A dust cap is assembled with newspaper and oil. The triangular washers and new base nuts are placed on.

    Once both cylinders are at this point torquing is begin. Front pullie components are re added temporarily so that the engine can be rotated. A flathead driver keeps the triangle washers centered as the base nuts are torqued. Using a cross pattern, 20, then 36 on both cylinders. Completing this chapter.

    Last edited by jcrubin; 4 Days Ago at 8:07 AM.

  2. #22
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    With this the twentieth episode the heads are revisited from the very beginning of the project where they were quickly re-assembled after inspection. They deserve the same attention as the rest of the bike and as the heads were thoroughly checked, the rocker boxes deserve a rebuild.

    A quick tear-down separates the heads from the rocker boxes and though while a visual appearance shows everything ok, it will need to be completely taken apart to be sure. The cracked glass on the ends of the nuts is an indicator that I should probably go chrome this time.

    As the pieces are disassembled they are put in there own areas as to not mix parts. Re-assembled outside the unit you can hear some deflection in the bushing on the first one. So onto the second one, not as bad but still mild wear. I decide to break down the other head and see if it has the same wear indication and see what needs to be purchased.

    The other rocker box had mild wear on both. It was that first one tapping on the box that had the most damage. A measurement of the shafts with the micrometers showed them within tolerance. Broken shaft and bushings would have meant a whole new set. Next all of the pads will be checked, if they are damaged the rocker cant be salvaged. All of the pads are shown to be good as well.

    After seeing that only the bushings were the issue , someone on the forum was kind enough to send me the special tools, so all i needed was to procure the new bushings to refresh this unit. A 9/16 tap and a drift is used to extract the old bushings from the rockers. It did look as if some of the bushings in my bike were previously replaced at some point.

    With the bushings arrived, Jims kit 17428-57K, I start with the oil port side, chamfered side in first matching the oil port hole in the bushing to the inside oil port hole. The tool brings the bushing flush into position. An inspection confirms that the oil hole lines up. On one of them the oil hole was slightly off, so id chased the hole with a small drill bit to ensure adequate oil flow. At this point everything will need to be set up for reaming, that will be in the next video.

    Last edited by jcrubin; 4 Days Ago at 8:08 AM.

  3. #23
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    Continuing with Part 21 the bushings have all been pressed in the the rocker arms and the must now be reamed to size. Ive leaded the rocker arms into a vice with soft jaws. The reamer in a T-bar with light oil is turned into the bushing cutting into the first and then the second one.


    This reamer being a bit worn I found going in both directions was helpful , also finishing off with polish and a drill for final fitment. The test is with the fitment, which shows to fit nice without binding nor deflection.


    With all of them done, I move onto the washing and polishing of the rocker boxes with jewelers rouge. once polishing is completed, assembly begins, the face of the spacers are cleaned op on sand paper and oil, then all pieces assembled in the rocker box. Old nuts, bolts and washers will ne used for the test assembly.


    Once torqued, binding is checked and endplay is checked. .08 / .13 and .14 / .10 initially I tried to disassemble the boxes and install appropriate shims. I did NOT like how the shims fit and decided since everything was in specification I would forego the shims and keep the end-play. Everything was re-assembled with new hardware.


    Now with the rocker boxes assembled, the mating surfaces are cleaned as well as on the heads, and the gaskets inspected. the head is then lowered onto the rocker box, flipping everything over the washers and nuts are installed. The slack drawn out begins the torquing sequence. In a star patters 145in/lbs to 175 in/lbs brings everything together.


    The heads are ready to be installed onto the motor.

    Last edited by jcrubin; 1 Day Ago at 8:47 PM.

  4. #24
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    In part 22 we have the bike on the on the new lift, having assembled our engine and transmission from smaller projects. All of these are brought together as preparations are done, and the rest of the oil system is removed so that the engine can be properly installed.

    The review of this new Kendon fold away lift can be seen here on my channel

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnrNQPh5Moo


    With the bike on the lift I have some things I'd finally like to do, this includes some rear brake work, decking the engine mounts, removing all oil system components. This work has to be done while the frame is empty. Since the oil components were removed i just cleaned everything out with kerosene and stored it away.

    The front and rear engine mounts need to be prepped with a file carefully to remove any raises and deformities, generally directly around the holes. All paint is removed too.

    Once everything was ready, Jason stopped by to assist in bringing the engine over from the bench to the frame. We get to see the new jack in action, and a few quirks. At the right height it slid over from the motorcycle jack right into the bike. Then it was immediately secured with one bolt for safety.

    With the engine now in the frame the rear bolts and front were inserted but the fronts were used only for alignment checking for resistance to center them. Only the rear bolts are tightened. They are tightened to 24 then 38 ft/lbs. The front bolts should come out with no issue at all if the engine is straight. The shift assembly/kick-stand is removed for further work.

    Feeler gauges are used on the front to check clearance on each mount. Checking both front and side of each mount. 2.5 and 3 thou on one mount was sufficient. Once the shims were set the skid plate was added to the bottom of the chassis.

    Now the front mounting bolts can be snugged with the rear shield mounts, Then the front mounts are torqued to 25 then 38 ft/lbs. a sharp boxcutter is then used to cut the protruding shim material, bending them back and forth to crack them. This area is finally cleaned and painted over with the paint used for the frame bringing this chapter to a close.


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