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  1. #1

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    Default Extended Fork Question

    I'm doing 6 over forks on my 39mm narrow glide front. What do you use for the dampeners/spacers since the forks are longer now? I bought the kit from TC bros and it came with 2 pieces of PVC, but I assume that was just to keep things in place during shipping, right?

  2. #2
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    Use the pvc

  3. #3

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    Cool, really wasn't sure if that's what it was there for so figured I'd ask.

    New question, anyone got a part number on the triple tree pinch bolts? One of mine stripped out when I removed it and the others look like they aren't too far off from stripping in the future. 2001 39mm narrow glide front

  4. #4

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    Yes, the PVC is installed on top of the spring, and you should put a flat washer on top of the spring first to keep the end of the spring from wearing the PVC. The washers are usually included in such kits.

    Jim

  5. #5

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    I never liked spacers of any kind. I never liked the way it felt.Hard to tell if your forks are flexing or if it's the spacers.I always chucked mine into the parts box and never looked back. I prefer that direct response feel.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by desertdog1313 View Post
    I never liked spacers of any kind. I never liked the way it felt.Hard to tell if your forks are flexing or if it's the spacers.I always chucked mine into the parts box and never looked back. I prefer that direct response feel.
    If you put extended tubes on a standard fork, you gotta use a spacer to make up the difference in spring length. If not, you would have to use a longer spring which is an expensive way to solve a simple problem. If it were a cartridge fork, you would have to fit a longer pushrod, or an extension for the existing one.

    Jim

  7. #7
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    Just recently one of the members found the supplied pvc spacers were too short, resulting in no spring preload. Do a search for that thread...less than a month ago.

    and you need a part for your 2001 triple tree...you didn't mention a model,found this for xl883:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....TEERING%20STEM

    if not the right model,search that site.

  8. #8

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    Oh shit, I read that too fast. I thought he was talkin about those handlebar dampeners or ones on the risers. My bad.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Just recently one of the members found the supplied pvc spacers were too short, resulting in no spring preload. Do a search for that thread...less than a month ago.

    and you need a part for your 2001 triple tree...you didn't mention a model,found this for xl883:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	HD01XLH029.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	50.7 KB 
ID:	92896
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....TEERING%20STEM

    if not the right model,search that site.
    Thank you so much, that's exactly the kind of website I was looking for.

    Love this community

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    If I were you, I would not replace the pinch bolts with the stock Torx bit head. I would get stainless replacements in the same length and thread pitch with standard allen head bolts. You can even get the button head style if you like the rounded look. IME, torx bit drivers can bend and twist if they are not good quality and fuck up your bolts. Plus you have to carry around a random bit in your tool bag if something were to loosen where if you keep an allen wrench of that size, it works with other bolt head sizes on your bike.

  11. #11

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    That's a good point. I already ordered those OEM ones but I'll probably replace them with a regular bolt head. One of mine is still seized and I can't get it out. I cut a notch in it and everything and the fucker won't budge.

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    If your trees are aluminum remember stainless and aluminum don't work well together....... Also Stainless bolts are very brittle.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by dlabmarc View Post
    That's a good point. I already ordered those OEM ones but I'll probably replace them with a regular bolt head. One of mine is still seized and I can't get it out. I cut a notch in it and everything and the fucker won't budge.
    Have you used heat??? Also what kind of penetrating oil are you using??? What about a pic???

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    If you use anti-seize or loctite on the replacements they're likely to behave better.

    Why anti-seize OR loctitie? Because dry threads beg for corrosion and corrosion sticks fasteners.

    Welding a nut on the end of stuck bolts can help because welding heats the fastener and the nut offers better leverage for removal.
    Last edited by farmall; 04-17-2019 at 2:48 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    If your trees are aluminum remember stainless and aluminum don't work well together....... Also Stainless bolts are very brittle.....
    I donít think stainless works well with anything. But it looks cool, until looking at it just brings bad memories.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SamHain View Post
    I don’t think stainless works well with anything. But it looks cool, until looking at it just brings bad memories.
    Yep you have that right...... But people really bright and shiny things..... LOL That's why Harley sells so many Chrome add on do das.....

  17. #17

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sorry guys, been MIA. Here’s the bolt I’ve been fighting with. I took a propane torch to it and nothing. Cut a notch in it and went at it with a flathead on an impact. Anyone got any ideas?

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    Heat and penetrating oil are pretty much your options. I would weld a nut on there to have something to grab before it’s totally obliterated.

  19. #19

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    yeah, I donít have a welder but could probably find someone.

    What the hell would make this happen though? I live in Phoenix, not exactly like this front end has ever had to deal with much moisture to cause rust or anything and the other bolts came out easily

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamHain View Post
    Heat and penetrating oil are pretty much your options. I would weld a nut on there to have something to grab before it’s totally obliterated.
    Exactly this, at this point that thing is fucked... Welding a nut is the only simple option that i can see other wise you are talking machining it out and that is a lot of fucking around. Another option is trying an easy-out but i fucking hate those things. No matter what hardware you use always anti seize and loctite ALWAYS on EVERYTHING!

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