This sounds extremely rudimentary but I have done this a number of times and looking for confirmation or a suggestion otherwise
2002 Sportster with new Barnett extra plate clutch. Has maybe 1200 miles on it so it’s pretty fresh. Recently the throw out bearing went out so I replaced that. Very straight forward job and no issues there. Adjusted the clutch to the letter per the FSM. Clutch adjuster lightly seated, 1/4 turn out and locked in place. Cable slack was adjusted to 1/8” (1/16 can be verrrry grabby). I usually go 1/2 turn out but the trans has struggled to find neutral for awhile so I made sure I followed it correctly no deviations. Primary chain was also set to 1/2” slack cold. Primary fluid has about 28 oz of fluid after replacing the primary cover and gasket for the TO bearing. It’s where it should be just under the derby cover opening.
I go to test ride it tonight, drop it into gear and it slingshots out like I had no clutch disengaged at all. Fucker ran itself into the front of my car! So obviously something is off.
The biggest issue I’ve been trying to solve is hard neutral. Everything I read is adjust per FSM. Clearly that’s not working. I had it adjusted 1/2 turn the other night with just under 1/8” slack and it rode great, just couldn’t get the thing into neutral. (Re measured and found I was low on primary fluid by about 8oz. So I redid all my adjustments as listed above thinking this thing is gonna be tits. WRONG.
My question though, is finding neutral based on clutch drag? Like there should be no drag right? And if so, is more clockwise turn from seated less drag? I’ve read all sorts of “this amount of turns out from seated” posts and trying to sort through what’s right and wrong. My guess, based on my evening is that less turns out, more drag, clearly evident by the bike doing what it did. But I have been very wrong before.
Any input on what should seem like such an easy thing?
2002 Sportster with new Barnett extra plate clutch. Has maybe 1200 miles on it so it’s pretty fresh. Recently the throw out bearing went out so I replaced that. Very straight forward job and no issues there. Adjusted the clutch to the letter per the FSM. Clutch adjuster lightly seated, 1/4 turn out and locked in place. Cable slack was adjusted to 1/8” (1/16 can be verrrry grabby). I usually go 1/2 turn out but the trans has struggled to find neutral for awhile so I made sure I followed it correctly no deviations. Primary chain was also set to 1/2” slack cold. Primary fluid has about 28 oz of fluid after replacing the primary cover and gasket for the TO bearing. It’s where it should be just under the derby cover opening.
I go to test ride it tonight, drop it into gear and it slingshots out like I had no clutch disengaged at all. Fucker ran itself into the front of my car! So obviously something is off.
The biggest issue I’ve been trying to solve is hard neutral. Everything I read is adjust per FSM. Clearly that’s not working. I had it adjusted 1/2 turn the other night with just under 1/8” slack and it rode great, just couldn’t get the thing into neutral. (Re measured and found I was low on primary fluid by about 8oz. So I redid all my adjustments as listed above thinking this thing is gonna be tits. WRONG.
My question though, is finding neutral based on clutch drag? Like there should be no drag right? And if so, is more clockwise turn from seated less drag? I’ve read all sorts of “this amount of turns out from seated” posts and trying to sort through what’s right and wrong. My guess, based on my evening is that less turns out, more drag, clearly evident by the bike doing what it did. But I have been very wrong before.
Any input on what should seem like such an easy thing?
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