C model Sportster speedo relocation

[Skjoll]

I didn't want to piggyback on another member's post of how to relocate the C model speedometer using a bunch of OEM HD parts so here I am with a cheap ($0) alternative. First off, this will work with C model Sportsters that have the straight risers if you don't mind flipping the riser assembly 180°. Alternatively, you could just ditch the stock risers entirely (like I did on my latest build in which I'm also getting rid of the wiring/connectors housed underneath the riser plates) and fabricating a mounting plate.

You can remove the speedo from the housing and either merely flip it within the housing 180° or flip it 180° and insert it into the backside of the housing so that the angle of the mounting tab cants the speedo towards the rider instead of away. Just remove the two allen screws at the back of the speedo unit, pull the back and front away from the housing, break the orientation tab (easy to do since it crumbles like pot-metal) and insert the speedo with it's rubber isolation sleeve into what used to be the backside of the housing. Then insert the other rubber isolation sleeve into the other end of the unit and button her up. Voila... a cheap mod and all you need to do now is fabricate a bracket to mount the unit to the triple trees.

[MOTher]

Here's another one in a '96-'03 C model housing (the bottom is now the top,) flipped just the way Skjoll says to do it. It's mounted to a riser made for 2 piece bars, and has the stainless cover that came on some Sportsters. The riser/clamp is turned around from the way it came on the factory bikes, but interestingly enough, the bolt spacing on the riser/clamp and the speedo housing is the same. I spaced it up a little with hardware store chrome spacers both to clear the non-C model eyebrow, and so I could see the idiot lights through the gap. If you were using the C model bottom mount headlight, you wouldn't need to space it up. The bars are aftermarket bars that were knurled to fit on one of HD's Softail Springer models, then I cut the section between the knurls out, effectively narrowing the bars 3-4". It also made it easier to run the wires through the bars.

It's not a $0 deal, but the only part you really need is the riser/clamp. There are a couple on Ebay right now for under $20 (plus shipping) or if you look, you could probably do better at a swap meet. Saves making a bracket and cleans up your handlebars a little at the same time.