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  1. #1

    Default Sharpie Artwork Advice: Gas Tank

    Hey all,

    I did a quick search and didn't find any threads related to "sharpie art" or "markers".

    I am looking for advice on using a "Industrial Sharpie" on a gas tank.

    The gas tank is currently bare metal. My thought is to put a light coat of a spraymax 2k clear(after an adhesion promoter) and then have the artist draw on top of that w/the Industrial Sharpie. (base coat is stop the artist's hand from getting oils on metal which could rust it in future). After the artist has completed the drawing, I would then apply a heavy layer of the 2k clear to lock it in.

    Not sure if anyone has done this or knows someone who has...My questions are:

    1.) Is putting a base thin clear coat a smart idea?
    2.) I believe the "Industrial Marker" can handle being cleaned afterward so a clear coat may not be needed(more of a statement but what are your thoughts on that approach)
    3.) You think the ink will bleed when we spray the clear coat over the marker?

    Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

    Below is the text about the marker:

    Bold ink is engineered to withstand intense heat up to 500F
    Specially designed for industrial and laboratory users
    Fine tip creates bold, detailed lines on a variety of surfaces including metal, glass, film and plastic
    Quick-drying permanent ink is water, fade and smear resistant



    -Buck

    1981 FXWG
    1993 XLH

  2. #2
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    I'd get a scrap part or some sheet metal and do a sample before choosing a final process. Then you'll know what to expect.

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    I've found that spray painting over sharpies can make them "bleed" and "fuzz" a bit - using very, very light coats over the top of it it was necessary

    But, I would be surprised if any "permanent marker" ended up being anything close to permanent, when subjected to washing, gasoline, having clothing rub against it, etc...

    X2 on Farmalls advice to try out a scrap piece

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    Yeah, do it yourself before spending money on an artist. Scribble some dumb shit on raw and cleared steel, then compare how they look after a week or two.

  5. #5

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    I've done it. It works, but not with rattle cans. Rattle cans are high in solvents which break down the marker pretty much instantly. Have your artist use a paint pen instead of the sharpie, or clear it with a normal automotive 2 part clear.

  6. #6
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    what about enamal paint markers?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hToDNpVKbfs

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    Also a fan of the test it philosophy.

    In order to use a spray bomb, my first three coats would be from WAY back, 8 to 12 inches, and just dust coat the area. I would do enough coats like that, with a couple of minutes of flash between them, to coat everything. It should be pretty bumpy and a bit dull looking.

    Then put a medium coat on, just enough to make it look wet. Let that dry for about 5 minutes, and then a few more coats, a wet sand, another couple of coats, and then a wet sand / buff session.

    I think you are smart to lay a coat or two down for the artist to work on, as you mentioned hand oils and such.

    Good luck and let us see the progress.
    -DB

  8. #8

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    I think you all are right and I am gonna have to buck up and just use the $25 can of supermax 2k for a trial space. Sucks but worth it to not mess up a future tank job and waste more money.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Parisbrom View Post
    what about enamal paint markers?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hToDNpVKbfs
    Paris, you sumbitch! This is Dean, pm me your phone number.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FringeCult666 View Post
    I think you all are right and I am gonna have to buck up and just use the $25 can of supermax 2k for a trial space. Sucks but worth it to not mess up a future tank job and waste more money.
    If you put on MAX2K clear coat trying to sand it later if needed will not work. sanding marks (even 1500 grit) will show through and rubbing compound will not get rid of the has and sanding marks. You would need a special Hand rubbing compound made by 3M to get the surface to look wet again and get out scratches from 1500 paper.
    Last edited by Luky; 03-12-2019 at 11:29 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Luky View Post
    If you put on MAX2K clear coat trying to sand it later if needed will not work. sanding marks (even 1500 grit) will show through and rubbing compound will not get rid of the has and sanding marks. You would need a special Hand rubbing compound made by 3M to get the surface to look wet again and get out scratches from 1500 paper.
    With any modern clear it's much easier to color sand the coat before the last until it's as flat as possible then leave the natural gloss on a thin wet top coat alone. Lot's of change since the lacquer days or even Emron.
    Dusty

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    Imron was a bitch to try and buff, it always laid flat for me, but I would get the occasional bug or spiderweb floating down from the rafters ( pre spray booth days ). It could be done but you had to really be careful about burning it.

    I am going to have to try some of that Max2K, sounds like interesting stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FiddleFootJones View Post
    Paris, you sumbitch! This is Dean, pm me your phone number.
    Private message is being a bitch on the phone, 612-296-6118.

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