73' shovel

[Tattooo]

It looks like someone added length to the trans shift arm so that will give you more motion....

[Stretchhh]

Tattooo, I took a closer look before leaving for work this morning and on the back side of the tab it doesn't look welded it's like epoxy or something weird on the front of it? Based on some levers I've seen online it looks like maybe the old owner straightened it in a vise for more length? The other ones I've seen all have bends in them. Also here's a close up pic so you can see how it doesn't sit right when mounted in the upward position.

[Tattooo]

Also here's a close up pic so you can see how it doesn't sit right when mounted in the upward position.

It's not designed to go that way... It goes down where the indention is in the plate behind it.... I believe your shift pattern will also be backwards....

[Hubbard]

L

Ok so the fender is mounted to the frame only. I thought 2 1/2" of clearance between the two would be enough but now I'm not so sure. When you say compress the shock all the way how do you go about doing that? I put a ratchet strap on either side of the bike tonight and cranked them till I couldn't move them anymore and it still didn't bottom the shock out. However it did hit the fender. I don't know how soft shocks are supposed to be on a bike like this since it's my first non hardtail but I can tell you I had a buddy hold the forks while I jumped on the frame right above the battery box (I'm 210lbs) and the supension barley moved more than an inch. It sinks maybe 1/8-1/4 when I sit on it. Are these shocks just wicked stiff or is this normal? Do you think it would be ok to run considering how stiff they are maybe they wouldn't even come close to the fender? My other thought was to take the shock apart and put a two piece shaft collar around the shock at the stop to essentially shorten the travel of the shock by bringing the stop down farther... thoughts on that? Here's a pic of a shaft collar in case everyone doesn't call them the same thing. [ATTACH=CONFIG]91879[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]91879[/ATTACH]

Throw a donut in the yard and when a porker makes a grab for it get her to set on your scooter.

[Stretchhh]

Well I'm going to order a new shift ear for the trans and see if that will correct the issue. Considering the one that's on there was bent to be straight. So my next task is how to mount my tank. I'm just going with an early sporty tank and figured I could just use the original front tank mount on the frame and on the rear I just drilled a hole in the frame and put a bung in it. I'm planing on using threaded rod with chrome acorn nuts on either side. My question is this, can I just mount the sportster tank on the frame metal to metal? I know about shimming if needed so I don't put stress on the tabs but I just don't know if I need to put some kind of rubber between the frame and tank or not. Just thinking I can go metal to metal since that's how the tanks are from the factory anyways. (Hardware is all temporary lol)

[Stretchhh]

Well after lots of research and reading and finding nothing, I decided just to hard mount the tank on my bike with a little buffer of thin rubber at the rear mount. I figure if Harley's come stock with solid mounted tanks then why can't I do it too. Also decided against tank sealer (to many horror story's). I will pressure test and silver solder any areas with pin holes or spots that look questionable.

[farmall]

Silver solder is a nice way to avoid overheating the tank. Good idea! Fuck tank sealer, you're wise to do it right the first time.

Of course since you've a torch you could gas weld it (easy as soldering) using thin filler like MIG wire.

Solid mount tanks work fine and mounts should not have slop. Rubber only permits movement. Proper mounting doesn't need rubber for anti-chafe because the tank and frame never chafe in the first place. Note how older HD split tanks mount. Tightening hardware should never bend or stress a mount.

[Stretchhh]

Silver solder is a nice way to avoid overheating the tank. Good idea! Fuck tank sealer, you're wise to do it right the first time.

Of course since you've a torch you could gas weld it (easy as soldering) using thin filler like MIG wire.

Solid mount tanks work fine and mounts should not have slop. Rubber only permits movement. Proper mounting doesn't need rubber for anti-chafe because the tank and frame never chafe in the first place. Note how older HD split tanks mount. Tightening hardware should never bend or stress a mount.

Thanks for the confirmation of my idea. Couldn't find any info anywhere really about solid mounting the tank. The front tabs are direct metal on metal and the rear tabs I used rubber as a shim under the tank since the rear mounts are angled and I didn't want to risk stressing anything by trying to straighten them out. Still haven't pressure tested it but that will happen tonight. I decided to tackle my belt drive yesterday and got to work on it starting first by installing the inner primary and tightening the motor and trans in the frame. I then removed the inner primary and moved to loosening the front motor mount and shimming it as needed (.004 shim placed under left front mount.) then moved to the transmission, I left the trans tightened to the trans plate and loosened the plate and frame connection, that's where shit hit the fan and I found one of the rear bolts snapped in the frame so I had to pull the trans out of the bike and drill out the old bolt and tap new threads into the frame. Any how after all that shit I found it needed two shims (.005 at front right and .003 under the fifth bolt location installed between frame and trans plate) then after installing my clutch hub I installed the front pulley on the motor and realized I needed to use a temporary shim (.094 is what I had laying around) between the front pulley and alternator cover in order to give my self enough clearance to fit my plate glass straight edge in between the pulley and cover. After fucking with it for a couple of hours I am pretty confident that I have the two pulleys square to each other within .001-.002 of an inch. Which I would think is good enough right? My only issue I noticed was that my clutch hub and motor pully are not perfectly aligned in the sense that my motor pulley will sit further inboard by .065 of an inch once I remove the temporary spacer. so that means I will have .065 of the belt over hanging off the back of the clutch hub. This makes no clearance issues that I can see and I would think that such a small amount wouldn't make any difference anyhow right? I'm not sure as this is my first belt drive ever and I am just going off of info I've gathered from reading and research. I haven't installed the belt yet so I didn't check to see if it was tracking right because I finished up late last night so hopefully I'll get the chance to put it on tonight and check out how it tracks in the pulleys.

[JBinNC]

Typically you shim the motor pulley or sprocket so the primary drive is aligned. If the spacer you are using gives this alignment, why remove it?

Here's a caution for installing belt pulleys on alternator equipped motors:
Be damned sure the hub of the pulley is shimmed tight to the center of the alternator rotor. If the edge of the pulley is pulling up tight to the face of the alternator rotor, and there is a gap at the center of the hub, however slight, problems will ensue. I like to be able to slip a thin feeler gauge between the edge of the pulley and the face of the rotor with everything torqued down. That way I know the hub of the pulley and rotor are bearing on the seal spacer and the Timkens behind. Otherwise you may not get proper pressure on the Timkens, and you can flex the rotor, or even allow it to be loose enough to work back and forth on the splines and wear out the rotor. (Does this make sense?)

Jim

[Stretchhh]

Jim, what you're saying makes complete sense to me but I was unaware that you could run a spacer behind the motor pulley. Doing that would solve all the problems I'm haveing lol. Now where the hell do I find a spacer that will fit? Does anyone know what the dimensions of the shaft are? I'm at work at the moment and just curious so I can see if I can find one online maybe? I need something that's .063 thick. I got that number because right now there is a .094 spacer behind the motor pully and with that in there I have a .031 +/- .001-.002 gap between the pulley and the face of my straight edge so I figured .094-.031= .063. Sounds right, right?

[JBinNC]

24032-70 is .060 - .062 spacer. Common as nails.

Jim

[Stretchhh]

24032-70 is .060 - .062 spacer. Common as nails.

Jim

Well damn, that's awesome! Ordered one up and it'll be here Friday. Can finally finish this primary set up over the weekend. I pressure tested the gas tank last night in my drive way.. no bubbles to be seen so no repairs to be done. ill be sending it and the fender out for paint tomorrow. Hopefully getting home from work tonight to start on the wiring. Might fire it off this weekend!

[Stretchhh]

Ok I guess I lied. The spacer was here when I got home today. Fuck yeah. the belt drive is all installed. I did kick it over a few times before putting the retaining ring on the front pulley and did notice it tracked the belt slightly away from the motor on the front pulley (1/8" maybe?) but it wasn't walking it's self off. So I put the ring on and it seems ok I guess? anyways I met up with my buddy tonight and gave him my tank and fender so he can get some paint slapped on them and I'm working on getting some custom bars made up also.

[Stretchhh]

Anyone have any input on my belt tracking? Just kicking it over the belt runs like a 1/8" off the front pulley away from The motor is this fine? I put the retaining Ring on the front pulley and it seems alright. ??

[Tattooo]

Anyone have any input on my belt tracking? Just kicking it over the belt runs like a 1/8" off the front pulley away from The motor is this fine? I put the retaining Ring on the front pulley and it seems alright. ??

It's way out of line........... Post a pic from the rear.... Not a close up either........