Sportster Pricing Census

[mayjamest]

I wanted to get the communities input on sporty 1200 pricing to make sure I’m not jumping the gun due to excitement. Decided to do a sporty 1200 hardtail chain conversion chop for my very first project. I am going to get the fab guys at work to help with the welding. I am looking to pick up a donor that is in good running condition so I don’t have to rebuild the motor/trans. Found a 2003 100th anniversary sporty 1200 for $4500 out here in CA, 7k original miles. Looks flawless and one owner. My “planned budget is 6k total, if it leaks into 7k, that’s fine. So, besides money being relative to the individual, seems like getting a good rigid engine mount ‘03 or older sporty for around 3k is a really good deal, and the 4-4.5k range is about average? The big question here is what typically is a fair price for a good condition 03’ or older sporty 1200? Would love to here some numbers on what you guys spent on your donors and what your total chop ran you. Thanks

[heyjamesguesswhat]

I recently paid 4k for a '01 1200 S in really good shape. New tires, thunderheaders, and some bolt on bloat I've been selling off.

[mayjamest]

I recently paid 4k for a '01 1200 S in really good shape. New tires, thunderheaders, and some bolt on bloat I've been selling off.

Saw the Username with 1 post and thought for sure I was about to get trolled. Thanks for the actual response! Yea if I got mine for 4K I would feel like I got a good deal. At 4.6k I feel like I’m paying it’s actually value, not going to lose and mechanically solid bike over a few hundred dollars.

[drivermark]

It all depends on your location, the condition of the bike, the phase of the moon, the ol' lady's time of the month and god only knows what else but I've personally seen prices from$600 and up for running bikes (granted it has been a while since I saw one that cheap) but you should be able to get a running Evo Sportster for 2000-4000

[BlackCloudSalvage]

Just keep in mind what you are paying vs what u will actually use off the bike. Frame, motor, front end. Do you like the wheels and tires on it or would you want to buy new ones? Are the tins in good shape to re sell? Etc.

[TomK]

Just keep in mind what you are paying vs what u will actually use off the bike. Frame, motor, front end. Do you like the wheels and tires on it or would you want to buy new ones? Are the tins in good shape to re sell? Etc.

This really makes a difference. My first chop was an Ironhead sportster that I bought for $600. I welded on a hardtail and reused the front end and wheels, but it still ended up costing a few grand (tins, oil tank, rear brake, battery box, chain, paint, wiring, etc., etc.).

[heyjamesguesswhat]

Saw the Username with 1 post and thought for sure I was about to get trolled. Thanks for the actual response! Yea if I got mine for 4K I would feel like I got a good deal. At 4.6k I feel like I’m paying it’s actually value, not going to lose and mechanically solid bike over a few hundred dollars.

Haha, nope.
The guy I bought mine from had it all set up for touring. Definitely not the setup I'm going for, but he had taken pretty good care of it. Had 24k miles when I bought it. Was able to sell or repurpose most of the touring crap.

[seaking]

I really love sportsters stock and wouldn't really consider them for anything else besides touring they just eat miles. In my mind an easier chop that'll be well worth the money: 5 speed (estart sure but believe me most kick only guys will envy), some suspension (until you make it rigid) and no 1, reusing ALL the stock parts, evo FXSTC:



I say that because with: your budget of $6k that bike is beyond doable and a great first build if you play your cards right. I really don't think any gain is to be had chopping anything past shovelhead ($$$ wise you won't get it back) but if you have to, evo softail is the best return. You could even reuse the axle plates if you make it rigid; the frame will have same size tubing throughout.

[mayjamest]

I really love sportsters stock and wouldn't really consider them for anything else besides touring they just eat miles. In my mind an easier chop that'll be well worth the money: 5 speed (estart sure but believe me most kick only guys will envy), some suspension (until you make it rigid) and no 1, reusing ALL the stock parts, evo FXSTC:



I say that because with: your budget of $6k that bike is beyond doable and a great first build if you play your cards right. I really don't think any gain is to be had chopping anything past shovelhead ($$$ wise you won't get it back) but if you have to, evo softail is the best return. You could even reuse the axle plates if you make it rigid; the frame will have same size tubing throughout.

Only issue with that is that here in Los Angeles, you are going to be hard pressed to find a softail in running condition below $7k.

[seaking]

Like I said play your cards right, seems like $6500 is asking from what I searched, you certainly don't have to pay that. Money talks. Also, expand your search--Uhauls are cheap when you rent them local.

[mayjamest]

Funny you say that Seaking, after reading your response I looked again on craigslist an a 99 evo fxstc with 18k miles was selling for $5,500. Was informed the bike sold in the first 24 hours.

[seaking]

Dude they're out there just gotta keep your eyes peeled.

I'm talking extreme budget constraints here, reuse EVERYTHING from factory including the wide glide, it looks so good as a package--add a seat, painted tank, make the OEM hand controls pretty, open belt is expensive but not necessary. Where the softail really shines is the weight savings on rigid. Chopper handbook has the weights but IIRC lopping off the suspension loses 100lbs. That's a lot of freed ponies. My buddy says it's extremely easy to do the work, match (1.250 OD throughout) and splice tubing, reuse OEM axle plates ($300 savings)--he said the best part is labor savings in messing with the seatpost casting--normally you have to bend it or cut and reweld to make the proper angle for the rear top tubes.

[mayjamest]

Dude they're out there just gotta keep your eyes peeled.

I'm talking extreme budget constraints here, reuse EVERYTHING from factory including the wide glide, it looks so good as a package--add a seat, painted tank, make the OEM hand controls pretty, open belt is expensive but not necessary. Where the softail really shines is the weight savings on rigid. Chopper handbook has the weights but IIRC lopping off the suspension loses 100lbs. That's a lot of freed ponies. My buddy says it's extremely easy to do the work, match (1.250 OD throughout) and splice tubing, reuse OEM axle plates ($300 savings)--he said the best part is labor savings in messing with the seatpost casting--normally you have to bend it or cut and reweld to make the proper angle for the rear top tubes.

What are your thoughts on picking up a dyna wide glide for cheaper and throwing the evo drivetrain in a Paughco rigid frame? Seems like I’d get the same deal for around the same price? Any issues I’m not seeing by going that route?

[farmall]

If you buy the correct frame for the Dyna drivetrain it would be easy to reuse, but Dynas are fashionable right now. I'd look for something less wanted like a wrecked or ugly bagger but rubbermount drivetrains fail the classic appearance test. The purpose of chopping is to get the classic look so no point in settling for less.

There are plenty of takeout engines though so if building with an aftermarket frame you could get the classic look by buying a takeout Evo engine and Evo Softail primary and gearbox (ignore anything not splined shaft/Denso starter when it comes to gearboxes). Buying donor bikes is only worth it if you want a title or get them cheaper (net after parting out) than other methods.

Measure everything with money.

[seaking]

No. 1 reason I'd stay away from an aftermarket frame is the cops. Post '70 you need the VIN on your frame, period or the cops will impound--and just having the question of impound is enough for me to not ride it. Next is value in the Harley title--"special construction" loses value. Third, ease of transition over to rigid frame--an FXSTC looks great right out the box. You could go the route of evo dyna but avoid the square top tube frames--look up pre '89 for dyna. Evo softail never had square top tubes.

So what I posted was a 99 FXSTC--you get a 100% bulletproof top the line drivetrain with all updates HD did but with the classic "shovelhead" style frame. A black oil tank and spoked rear wheel (hides the fact that the oil tank is side fill,l looks better than chrome), great brakes-- put a floating disk and it's almost as good as ABS; 5 speed trans for 90mph cruising. You could even retain the suspension for the meantime until you find someone good to make it rigid.

Now if you're really chomping at the bit like I think you are, you need to look at a greater area and fly out to pick up the bike or rent a UHAUL (local is VERY cheap) to pick it up or you're going to overpay, or worse, get something you really don't want to begin with. You could also purchase a large socket, remove the forks, and cram the bike in an SUV. Go point by point from tip to tip of the bike and check off EVERYTHING you'd change or throw away. The softail list will be infintely shorter, down to the tanks, over any other HD. PLUS, you have the benefit of a digital speedo, those are a lot cheaper and a lot easier to relocate or hide a small aftermarket than old gear style.