Wide Rear Tire - “how to” advice

[Luky]

Yes you have really been busy! WOW!


Later on if you find a countershaft sprocket you can dump that whole jackshaft.

Looks good.

A song for you. LOL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGAiW5dOnKo

[79Josh81]

Yes you have really been busy! WOW!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]91807[/ATTACH]

Later on if you find a countershaft sprocket you can dump that whole jackshaft.

Looks good.

Thanks man. As far as a countershaft sprocket, the offset is pretty large but I can’t remember exactly how much. I know it’s over an inch I think though.

[Luky]

The pics are right side up when they upload so I don’t know why it’s rotating them.

Who knows? Just a stupid decision by some CEO.

[TriNortchopz]

Good to see you got that hardtail widened and fit on. Just wondering why you chose the sharp bend in the lower rails at the frame connection, instead of going with a longer offset in the lower hardtail rails, similar to this (see 4" at 25°):


Do you just move the jackshaft when the front chain stretches?

...offset is pretty large but I can’t remember exactly how much.

Wouldn't the measurement between the two sprockets on the jackshaft equal the amount of offset you would need on your engine sprocket to eliminate the jackshaft?

[79Josh81]

Good to see you got that hardtail widened and fit on. Just wondering why you chose the sharp bend in the lower rails at the frame connection, instead of going with a longer offset in the lower hardtail rails, similar to this (see 4" at 25°):
[ATTACH=CONFIG]91855[/ATTACH]

Do you just move the jackshaft when the front chain stretches?


Wouldn't the measurement between the two sprockets on the jackshaft equal the amount of offset you would need on your engine sprocket to eliminate the jackshaft?

As far as the way I did the hardtail it basically came down to what I was comfortable doing with the tools I have. Without a frame jig or a tube bender, the way I did it seemed like the most practical option to make sure I had the axle plate spacing I needed along with the keeping the rear end square and true.

As for the jack shaft, the pillow blocks are mounted on slotted holes in the box. If the chain stretches, I just loosen the pillow block bolts and use the rear chain adjusters to pull the whole set up tight. When the front chain is at the right right tension, I tighten down the pillow block bolts and then readjust the rear chain tension from there. Depending on how that works, I’ll add a chain tensioner if i need it but I won’t really know until I ride the bike and see how the chains react with the jackshaft set up.

And yes, the offset of the front sprocket would be the same as the distance between the two sprockets on the jackshaft.

[Luky]

When you have the rear axle bolt tight does the caliper mount swing on the axle shaft? It should.

[79Josh81]

When you have the rear axle bolt tight does the caliper mount swing on the axle shaft? It should.

Why would it need to swing? I mean it swings until I torque down the axle nuts. A brake stay keeps the caliper from moving anyways.

[Luky]

Why would it need to swing? I mean it swings until I torque down the axle nuts. A brake stay keeps the caliper from moving anyways.

The caliper needs to have movement on the axle. That is a free floating brake.
There should be a special spacer that goes in the caliper bracket bushing. This allows the caliper to center itself
so that the brake pads wear evenly and not on an angle. If you have the correct spacers then it means the spacers are just a little too long and all you have to do is sand the spacers so that the caliper is free floating.

From Choppers guide.....
"You want to be sure it floats freely in there until you apply the brakes, which it does. Our spacing is correct on our brake and our brake disk."


This is the special spacer that the Brake caliper hangs on. You get two brass thin washers if you need them.
The big end of the special stepped spacer goes in the wheel.
If you did not get these parts you can still get them online.
DNA company gives you everything you need so you do not have to go on a Easter Egg hunt to round up the rest of the parts. Thats why I like that company.

[79Josh81]

The caliper needs to have movement on the axle. That is a free floating brake.
There should be a special spacer that goes in the caliper bracket bushing. This allows the caliper to center itself
so that the brake pads wear evenly and not on an angle. If you have the correct spacers then it means the spacers are just a little too long and all you have to do is sand the spacers so that the caliper is free floating.

From Choppers guide.....
"You want to be sure it floats freely in there until you apply the brakes, which it does. Our spacing is correct on our brake and our brake disk."
[ATTACH=CONFIG]91874[/ATTACH]

This is the special spacer that the Brake caliper hangs on. You get two brass thin washers if you need them.
The big end of the special stepped spacer goes in the wheel.
If you did not get these parts you can still get them online.
DNA company gives you everything you need so you do not have to go on a Easter Egg hunt to round up the rest of the parts. Thats why I like that company.

That’s what I thought you were talking about. That caliper is for the front, specifically for a springer front end. I think that caliper needs to move on the axle because of the way the springer suspension works.

I have the rear wheel caliper and mount. I’m sure you can use the front on the rear but I have the actual rear style. There’s no bushing. The caliper doesn’t have to move because it’s a ridged set up.

[79Josh81]

This is what I have. The pic you have up is for the left side of a dual disc springer front end.

[Luky]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]91876[/ATTACH]

This is what I have.

OK. With that style of caliper mount the "free Floating" will not happen.
It is for a rear wheel of a stock frame design.
Its ok though. Now I see what is going on. Did they even give you a tab to weld on the frame?
The tab fits in a long slot so if you have to move the wheel back because the chain is stretching then
the caliper mount will slide on the TAB that is welded on the frame.
The only problem with this caliper mount is ...What if the caliper is not close enough to the frame so
the caliper mount is captured in the TAB welded to the frame?
You cannot move the rear wheel over. It must stay centered.

I just don't think it will work on this bike.

You need the other style like the black DNA Caliper mount shown.
Then everything will line up.

It is very unlikely that with the caliper mount you have that the caliper mount will be close enough to the frame.
And you have to leave the rear wheel centered in the frame. That is why that black caliper mount you see is the one needed.

The steel tab they should have given you with that style mount
is just wide enough to fit in that caliper mount groove.


A tab would have to be welded here on the frame for that caliper bracket to work and it looks like it is too far away from the caliper mount.
And like I say do not move the rear wheel over. The rear wheel must stay centered.

You will need that other style of caliper mount bracket. Sorry.

[79Josh81]

OK. With that style of caliper mount the "free Floating" will not happen.
It is for a rear wheel of a stock frame design.
Its ok though. Now I see what is going on. Did they even give you a tab to weld on the frame?
The tab fits in a long slot so if you have to move the wheel back because the chain is stretching then
the caliper mount will slide on the TAB that is welded on the frame.
The only problem with this caliper mount is ...What if the caliper is not close enough to the frame so
the caliper mount is captured in the TAB welded to the frame?
You cannot move the rear wheel over. IT must stay cantered.

I just don't think it will work on this bike.

You need the other style like the black DNA Caliper mount shown.
Then everything will line up.

It is very unlikely that with the caliper mount you have that the caliper mount will be close enough to the frame.
And you have to leave the rear wheel centered in the frame. That is why that black caliper mount you see is the one needed.

The steel tab they should have given you with that style mount
is just wide enough to fit in that caliper mount groove.

I’m already ahead of ya bud. I made my own tab that runs parallel with the axle slots and that’s welded to the bottom rail of the hardtail. I’m able to adjust the rear wheel from all the way in to as far as the chain adjusters will take me out and the caliper rides right along the tab.

[Luky]

I’m already ahead of ya bud. I made my own tab that runs parallel with the axle slots and that’s welded to the bottom rail of the hardtail. I’m able to adjust the rear wheel from all the way in to as far as the chain adjusters will take me out and the caliper rides right along the tab.

Yes -you keep getting ahead of me and solving all the problems! Darn!
Can we see a photo of your handy work?

[79Josh81]

Yes -you keep getting ahead of me and solving all the problems! Darn!
Can we see a photo of your handy work?

Lol....yeah. This is the only pic of the tab. You can see, in order to get it at the right angle to work, I had to weld the tab with an angle piece to match the slope of the hardtail bottom tube. I still have to cut the slot in the tab or I may just use the bolt in the bracket slot like a set screw against the tab.

[Luky]

Lol....yeah. This is the only pic of the tab. You can see, in order to get it at the right angle to work, I had to weld the tab with an angle piece to match the slope of the hardtail bottom tube. I still have to cut the slot in the tab or I may just use the bolt in the bracket slot like a set screw against the tab.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]91880[/ATTACH]

Thanks for the photo.
I cannot quite visualize what it would be like all put together.
Maybe a photo later on.?
Thanks, Luky