Double check my wiring diagram please

[Tattooo]

The intake manifold is an adapter from killer motorcycle products that is jb welded onto the carb itself, although I don't have a support bracket for it but it feels pretty solid. I can go ahead and make one though.

JB weld? Your bike is running VERY lean.... It sounds like you have a intake leak... Put a carb support on it... It doesn't matter if you think it's solid....

Plus when you clean a carb you need to soak it...... If you don't it's just a waste of time...

[scottiemcdoogle]

JB weld? Your bike is running VERY lean.... It sounds like you have a intake leak... Put a carb support on it... It doesn't matter if you think it's solid....

Plus when you clean a carb you need to soak it...... If you don't it's just a waste of time...

I know the jb weld sounds sketchy but it’s a very tight press fit and a very very thin layer of jb weld. I got that 45 jet out and it was pretty clogged, so I put in a 46 and it’s running great now.

[bpeak]

On the intake leak line of thought... have you tried the carb/brake fluid mist test? While running, squirt some in and around the intake manifold from all angles. If there is a leak of any significance it will suck that mist in and drown out the engine (stall).

[scottiemcdoogle]

On the intake leak line of thought... have you tried the carb/brake fluid mist test? While running, squirt some in and around the intake manifold from all angles. If there is a leak of any significance it will suck that mist in and drown out the engine (stall).

I’ve heard about that but I haven’t tried it, I’ll give that a go tomorrow just for peace of mind.

I rode again today for about 15 minutes and lost power on the way back. The battery tested at 9 volts when I got back to the shop. I swear it was charging the other day and now it’s not. I guess it has to be a bad voltage regulator? If not I’m out of ideas.

[JBinNC]

Generators are a little more difficult than alternator systems to daignose, without the tools for generator testing.
However, here's a quick and dirty way to test the generator itself on the bike:

You need a fully charged battery, a decent voltmeter, and two jumper leads. The battery should be hooked up on the bike as normal, or on a batteryless bike, battery negative must be hooked to the generator body or motor.
Disconnect the regulator, this test is about the generator only. Also, if there's a generator lamp lead, disconnect it from the generator as well.
Connect the voltmeter across the battery, and one test lead to each battery post. Voltmeter should be reading battery voltage.
Start the motor and set it to run at 2500-3000 rpm.
Connect the positive battery test lead to the A terminal and the negative lead to the F terminal, just for a couple of seconds. This full fields the generator, so only a couple of seconds! Voltmeter should rise to at least 16V, for a 12V system, or 7.5V for a six volt system.
If it does not, the generator is bad. If it does reach the voltage, the generator may still have a couple of opens in the armature, but is still charging.
If your generator passes this test, change the regulator. (And be sure the regulator, whether mechanical or electronic, is grounded. )
If the generator fails this test, clean the commutator and brushes, and be sure the brushes are free to move in their holders and test again.
Jim

[scottiemcdoogle]

Generators are a little more difficult than alternator systems to daignose, without the tools for generator testing.
However, here's a quick and dirty way to test the generator itself on the bike:

You need a fully charged battery, a decent voltmeter, and two jumper leads. The battery should be hooked up on the bike as normal, or on a batteryless bike, battery negative must be hooked to the generator body or motor.
Disconnect the regulator, this test is about the generator only. Also, if there's a generator lamp lead, disconnect it from the generator as well.
Connect the voltmeter across the battery, and one test lead to each battery post. Voltmeter should be reading battery voltage.
Start the motor and set it to run at 2500-3000 rpm.
Connect the positive battery test lead to the A terminal and the negative lead to the F terminal, just for a couple of seconds. This full fields the generator, so only a couple of seconds! Voltmeter should rise to at least 16V, for a 12V system, or 7.5V for a six volt system.
If it does not, the generator is bad. If it does reach the voltage, the generator may still have a couple of opens in the armature, but is still charging.
If your generator passes this test, change the regulator. (And be sure the regulator, whether mechanical or electronic, is grounded. )
If the generator fails this test, clean the commutator and brushes, and be sure the brushes are free to move in their holders and test again.
Jim

I’ll try this but this sounds like work a professional should be doing. This is my first motorcycle and I have a basic understand of mechanics but I don’t know the specifics like armature, commutator and brushes.

My regulator has a red, brown, and green wire hooked up as shown above so I don’t know which one is ground, that’s just how I was told to wire it.

I’m at the point now where I just want to ride so if I have to buy a cycle electric generator and regulator combo then so be it.

[TriNortchopz]

Since you mentioned Cycle Electric, maybe this will help:

Diagnosing charging system problems part 2
--Generators--

http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/Testing%20Two%20Brush%20Generators.htm