CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
  1. #1

    Default Fast,skinny and semi-show 67 lightning

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20181202_153031.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	300.5 KB 
ID:	89665Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20181202_153021.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	300.4 KB 
ID:	89666
    Finally starting something awesome! Won this on eBay and my plans include Mullins skinny trees, 21in. front wheel, fully built engine and quite possibly 5 speed conversion and top it off with super-duper killer paint job. I will definitely be asking questions and open for suggestions

  2. #2
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    1,640

    Default

    Nice starting place. Love those old Beezers. I wish ANY of my kids had shown an interest in my bikes. Enjoy the hell out of both!

  3. #3
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    903

    Default

    Cool,,, cant quite make it out, but is it a Asian TLS front brake?? A brake in the front is good and the Asian TLS ones work well. For a show bike a spool is fine, but for a rider I prefer brakes in the front.
    (70% of braking is off the front wheel) So with a good motor build, that will be a quick little bobber so brakes are a good thing.
    If not, thats cool, just my opinion.
    Whats the idea/plan on the 5 speed?? Its possible on a Triumph but not so easy on a BSA,, Although some people have used Yamaha XS650 parts but its pretty challenging to do.
    What year engine is it??
    The BSA Power egg was a good motor and does not need much to make it a fast bike. In 1966 the BSA A65 Lightning was the fastest production bike for sale, so pretty good out of the box.

    If you would like suggestions or ideas, Happy to help, Ive built a few, no need to reinvent the wheel, However if you want to go extreme, I have the formula to build a stroker monster motor. (Uses a modified Norton crank and 900cc)

    First thing you need is a factory workshop manual and a factory IPB parts book, Do you have that yet? A few places you can download them for free, But if you cant find it, PM me and I can email them as files. Put it on a memory stick and print them off. (I like to put them in plastic page protectors in a 3 ring binder, handy for the workshop, if you are a millenial and like squinting at your Ifruit I guess you can do that too)

    Is that a single carb?? Thats best for the street, Single carb with a Mikuni is a great setup, But if you want a dual carb head I can help you out.

    Good upgraded EI, dialed in carb and optimized charging system,
    Do some optimizing on the oil system, and the cam and thats basically all you need. Stock cam is very good, But the 357 cam is even better.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougtheinternetannoyance123 View Post
    Cool,,, cant quite make it out, but is it a Asian TLS front brake?? A brake in the front is good and the Asian TLS ones work well. For a show bike a spool is fine, but for a rider I prefer brakes in the front.
    (70% of braking is off the front wheel) So with a good motor build, that will be a quick little bobber so brakes are a good thing.
    If not, thats cool, just my opinion.
    Whats the idea/plan on the 5 speed?? Its possible on a Triumph but not so easy on a BSA,, Although some people have used Yamaha XS650 parts but its pretty challenging to do.
    What year engine is it??
    The BSA Power egg was a good motor and does not need much to make it a fast bike. In 1966 the BSA A65 Lightning was the fastest production bike for sale, so pretty good out of the box.

    If you would like suggestions or ideas, Happy to help, Ive built a few, no need to reinvent the wheel, However if you want to go extreme, I have the formula to build a stroker monster motor. (Uses a modified Norton crank and 900cc)

    First thing you need is a factory workshop manual and a factory IPB parts book, Do you have that yet? A few places you can download them for free, But if you cant find it, PM me and I can email them as files. Put it on a memory stick and print them off. (I like to put them in plastic page protectors in a 3 ring binder, handy for the workshop, if you are a millenial and like squinting at your Ifruit I guess you can do that too)

    Is that a single carb?? Thats best for the street, Single carb with a Mikuni is a great setup, But if you want a dual carb head I can help you out.

    Good upgraded EI, dialed in carb and optimized charging system,
    Do some optimizing on the oil system, and the cam and thats basically all you need. Stock cam is very good, But the 357 cam is even better.
    The 5 speed conversion I will be ordering from across the pond, it's pricey but I'm down for it. Roller bearing conversion will be in works too. I would be very interested in your 900 set-up ? Not sure on cam though....Full electronics .I plan on a big chunk of money on engine alone

  5. #5

    Default

    Spool front wheel, if need be might would run a front break but would like to have a nice clean front end

  6. #6
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,275

    Default

    I like your ideas - wanted to build a big one before but too cost prohibitive - bought more toys instead.

    Seen this?:
    1. A50 500cc unit construction
    2. A65 650cc unit construction
    3. A70 750cc unit construction
    4. 742cc; A65 stroked with A10 crankshaft
    5. 786cc; A65 stroked with Norton crankshaft, uses Norton rod
    6. 786cc; A65 stroked with Norton crankshaft, uses special MAP Triumph/Norton rod and special piston
    (may not be possible without barrel spacer)
    7. A65 SRM big bore (advertised as 750)
    8. A65 SRM big bore stroked with A10 crankshaft (advertised as 840)
    9. A65 SRM big bore stroked with billet crankshaft (advertised as 850)
    10. A65 SRM big bore stroked with billet crankshaft (advertised as 900)
    11. 500 racer: A65 bore, de-stroked
    11. 500 racer: SRM big bore, de-stroked

    See more specs here:
    http://victorylibrary.com/brit/BSA-c.htm


    Good stuff here:

    BSA A65 stroker
    https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonC...stroker.20192/
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 12-23-2018 at 1:22 AM.

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks trinortchopz... my background is fabrication,so I will send my engine to be built. Cost will not be a factor.. I need to find a great engine builder to take on this challenge

  8. #8
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,275

    Default

    Not sure, but Mark at BCS may be able to help ya with the crank part:

    "BSA crank conversions...British Cycle Supply...signed an agreement to distribute the range of high quality SRM components"
    http://www.britcycle.com/Products/BS...Conversion.htm
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 12-23-2018 at 12:00 PM.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Not sure, but Mark at BCS may be able to help ya with the crank part:

    "BSA crank conversions...British Cycle Supply...signed an agreement to distribute the range of high quality SRM components"
    http://www.britcycle.com/Products/BS...Conversion.htm
    I will check that out! I've been checking SRM and britcycle out. I will be ordering Nova racing 5speed conversion after Christmas but before that I will get my front end all done and clean up of frame.

    And YES the yellow color has to go!!!!

  10. #10
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,275

    Default

    A couple recommendation from the guys on AccessNorton site:

    BSA machine work
    July 2018
    "Anyone know of a machine shop in the USA experienced in A65 engine work? Looking for someone with the skills and experience to install a new main bushing and machine it correctly."
    https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonC...ne-work.25705/

    Found this place; may be worth a call:
    Classic Cycles Ltd.
    https://www.classiccyclesltd.com/

    bit more reading here:

    BSA A65 stroker
    https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonC...stroker.20192/

  11. #11
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    220

    Default

    Sure it's not a Thunderbolt? I thought the only diff was the Lightening was dual carb and the Thunderbolt was single carb. Not much more HP difference between the two.

  12. #12
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    343

    Default

    very cool project

  13. #13
    Junior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	126.1 KB 
ID:	90411

    Front brakes don't have to be big/ugly. Tiger Cub brake.

  14. #14

    Default

    Frankie,,love the bike... I had thought about a brake like that and the pipes!!.....Kinda thinking about doing 0 drop and possibly 0 stretch..... factory metal works frame is probably going to happen also

  15. #15

    Default update

    Last night,got a little bit done and in the process,stripped 1 of the 6mm bolt on lwr leg...Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20190131_201124.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	293.3 KB 
ID:	90722

  16. #16

    Default

    I got some clean up on the frame to do this weekend!!

  17. #17

    Default

    Got a little bit more done today... I cleaned up the frame a good bit but still have a little bit more to clean on frame

  18. #18
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    903

    Default

    That Frame looks pretty decent to me! Most A65 stock frames W/Hardtail, they look bent/sagging in the middle and few people do them right where they look decent like that. If cost is no object, I suppose buy a FM frame, but that one looks okey-dokey to me.

    What is the major reason for replacing it? What does a new one do that one does not? (*If you wanted a raked out digger, then I see the point, but that could be a very sweet bobber IMHO

    Now,, the 5 speed! Jeez,, I wish I could afford that kinda kit. (I nearly pulled the trigger for a Baker drivetrain 6 speed for my Buell, as I know a guy who had 2 of them for half the retail, however even 1/2 cost was very $$$$$), Now just my 2 cents here,
    But depends on what ratios you spec, and I heard great things about those race boxs, But many people on Triumphs will get all kinds of excited about swapping the factory 5 speeds into a 4 speed box. The gear sets were made by Quaife, and many were brittle and broke under hard use. (in order to fit, the gears are skinnier). But on a Triumph, the final drive ratio is NOT a overdrive. Its still 1:1 where on my sporties 5th gear is like :97 over drive which is nice on the freeway.

    So, you can bodge it with a high C/S & Rear sprocket combo so you have kind of an overdrive, or do a split ratio with a low 1-2 with high 3-4-5. (On a stock Triumph 650 I run a 20 tooth CS so I can easily cruise at 70 mph at a decent RPM, but still has plenty of balls off the line. Triumphs you can run as high as 23 tooth but its a dog until you get up to speed)

    But the idea of the race 5 speeds in Nortons-Triumph-BSA is to keep the motor in the power band (on the boil) NOT as an overdrive. Short rod 750 Triumphs are the choice for flat trackers and road racers (74-83) and flat trackers will swap out the 5 speed for the 4 speed and road racers want the 5 speed. The motors are like tractors and dont need the 5, plus the 4 is stronger so thats the background on gearboxs.

    Now BSA, is the king of ratios. There is alternate primary ratios (engine sprocket to basket) then CS to rear and then there is a number of Gear sets. There is a narrow ratio, a wide ratio and a std road bike ratio or you can mix and match and again, step the 1-2 for line launchs or run a low-high split ratio or any version in between.

    The biggest issue for the motor is a A-B formula. What kind of riding will you do, and thus the motor build? THEN you can decide your gearing to maximize the motor. Maybe you have that worked out but any number of people reading this might find that useful if new to BSA.

  19. #19
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,275

    Default

    There is a narrow ratio, a wide ratio and a std road bike ratio or you can mix and match and again, step the 1-2 for line launchs or run a low-high split ratio or any version in between.
    Found this, which includes 'Beezabill's' suggested gearsets:
    Victory Tech Papers;
    BSA A50, A65 & A70 Transmission Ratios
    "...For BSA 500, 650 & 750 twins the original standard 4-speed transmission ratios are good compromises for mixed street and moderate performance use, and are“staged” or“progressive” in that the engine speed loss on shifting from 1st to 2nd is higher than the loss on shifting from 2nd to 3rd, etc...The advantage to a close ratio gear-set lies in the fact that the RPM loss at very high speed is reduced, allowing extra power to accelerate above 100 mph... If the shift takes place at a speed where air resistance is high (70+ MPH), closer ratios are better; the factory “Std.” gear-set is at a disadvantage with its 12.6% RPM drop on the 3-4 shift: 7,500 RPM drops to 6,551.
    The factory close-ratio gear-set loses only 9.7% on the 3-4 shift (7,500 RPM drops to 6,775), and the motor (rather than“falling off the earth”) is right in its torque curve and accelerates better...
    “Beezabill” suggests...a gearbox mod that can be done to give a taller 4th gear:
    1. Put 16 tooth C/R M/S 1st gear in 4th gear L/S position, replaces 17 tooth.
    2. Put 22 tooth C/R M/S 3rd gear in L/S 2nd position, replaces 26 tooth.
    3. Put 18 tooth C/R L/S 3rd gear in M/S 2nd position, replaces 22 tooth.
    4. Put 23 tooth C/R M/S 2nd gear in L/S 3rd position, replaces 22 tooth.
    5. Put 25 tooth C/R L/S 2nd gear in M/S 3rd position, replaces 26 tooth.
    6. Make a 24 tooth M/S 4th gear, replaces 23 tooth.
    ...1st, 2nd and 3rd gear ratios slightly lower and closer together than the STD ratios. HOWEVER, it will make the jump from 3rd to 4th REAL BIG!!”
    See more here:
    http://www.victorylibrary.com/brit/A65-4.htm

  20. #20
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    214

    Default

    Britbike forum member working on an A65 shifter. Discussion here:
    http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbth...ype#Post764470

Share This



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in