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  1. #21

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ID:	90830 I thought I had a Harley front end until I pulled the triple tree and found ball bearings

  2. #22
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    Any markings on the lower legs or trees? What is the diameter of the tubes? what about diameter of the stem top and bottom?
    A65 cup OD is 54mm (2.127") top and bottom, while bearing cone ID is 28.49mm (1.12") on one, and other is 30.14mm (1.186").
    Bearings OEM numbers are: 66-4149, 65-5126 and 65-5127.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Any markings on the lower legs or trees? What is the diameter of the tubes? what about diameter of the stem top and bottom?
    A65 cup OD is 54mm (2.127") top and bottom, while bearing cone ID is 28.49mm (1.12") on one, and other is 30.14mm (1.186").
    Bearings OEM numbers are: 66-4149, 65-5126 and 65-5127.
    On one of the sliders found sticker SHOWA 447-5; ALSO under side of the cover above headlight has a Harley P/N

  4. #24
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    First bike that popped up from looking for that Showa # is parts from a 1982 CM400E; base model has a TLS brake - Doug called that in post #3.
    CM400 has 33mm fork tubes; same as 1970 Triumph (1.303")
    - see mix and match thread here:
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51244
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 02-05-2019 at 7:54 AM. Reason: 33

  5. #25
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    Kinda thinking about doing 0 drop and possibly 0 stretch..... factory metal works frame is probably going to happen also
    Option is a 30 degree rake frame from BCS:
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    Stretched approximately 2" in front and 4" in the rear
    http://www.britcycle.com/products/544/544800A001.htm

  6. #26
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    Better pix needed on the front end components. Brtish bikes USUALLY had the small ball bearings, But OIF Triumph/BSA (1971-up) Used a small dia stem and taper bearings. Commandos used a sealed wheel bearing style. Most Brit bikes can convert to a tapered bearing setup with a kit avail. from many vendors, Or if clever can make your own, however if you knock out the races for the balls, The neck cup ID area is a very odd size. Most kits use an off the shelf bearing and bearing race with a custom machined sleeve on the tapered race. (most machinists can make one with an interference fit)

    Kits run about $35-40, or make your own for less. That solves the bearing issue.

    Now, based on the pix, hard to tell, BUT it looks like the bottom triple tree is Harley, Looks like some I have here. Not so sure about top tree. VERY possible this is a BITSA front end (Bits O' this and that) The fork legs and sliders not too sure about.

    HD typically had front ends made by Showa and Kayaba? Maybe others? HD experts can tell you. I think early forks were 33.5mm later were 35mm and late model are 39mm? (Again dont quote me on that part) Also different axles over the years on Dia. (3/4" and 1"???)
    The front wheel/brake looks small bore asian bike to me. TLS but small dia, If it was a 400cc bike that makes sense to me. NUTTIN' wrong with them generally! Many also have a 2:1 speedo drive on them and can be set up to be a fantastic brake if you reshoe it with good friction materials, arc it in and adjust the TLS, and skim the drum. (You can do this with a layer of sandpaper taped to the old shoes and using a electric motor spinning the wheel while slowly applying brakes. Creates a perfect circle and full contact patch. You can do stoppies believe it or not. Most brakes are using 25% or less of contact surfaces. optimizing does wonders)

    But better pix will tell the tale. Front brakes are a GOOD thing! 70% of your braking comes from the front. Been in enough Oh shits! that Id rather avoid crashing than worry about style points, but a well setup brake, can look good as well,.

  7. #27

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    Thanks guys for all your help... looks like I will be getting another front end and getting a kit from lowbrow ... Doug Ur right about the bitsa part........Y'all also got me thinking really hard about not doing 5spd....just go the beezabill way...1,2,3 close and tall 4th

  8. #28

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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by factoryReset View Post
    Thanks guys for all your help... looks like I will be getting another front end and getting a kit from lowbrow ... Doug Ur right about the bitsa part........Y'all also got me thinking really hard about not doing 5spd....just go the beezabill way...1,2,3 close and tall 4th
    Depends on your goals for the bike, That front end might be just dandy for many people. As for the 5 speed my intent was not talk you out of anything, Instead just give you the facts (And anyone not familiar with BritIron) so you can make an educated decision and proceed accordingly.

    The racing 5 speed setups are really nice, but really suited for racing to stay in the power band. In racing the expense is justified for the end results. The question is it justified in your case for a street bike and HOW you will ride it?

    I can think of many places to better spend your $$$$ and happy to tell you my opinion as I EXCEL in helping others spend their money.

    When it comes to motor, ignition, fuel system, theres several ways to go, But the stock setup is not bad at all. I built one for a customer with hotted up cam and a lightened and balanced flywheel. He was shocked at how fast it was and revved like a 2 stroke dirt bike. Was loads of fun. But would I do one again like that? Only for certain types of riding,, We learned a lot on that one and while fun, Id go the other direction and all about torque on the street.

  10. #30
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    I almost forgot about this guy for big BSA, Triumph and Norton engines;

    "Ed G Cranks (located in Toronto, Ontario) is now building building stroker crankshafts for BSA and Triumph...made from modified Norton crankshaft components and can be used for stock or racing engines. Each crankshaft uses a new, smaller flywheel that allows clearance for any camshaft lobes...combine a stroker crank with various after-market barrels. SRM sells large BSA A65 barrels and custom machines them to suit the stroke of your engine and the length or your connection rods. When combined with a stroker crank this means you may be able to build a smooth engine at over 900cc displacement..."
    Click image for larger version. 

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    http://www.offsetcrank.com/stroker_cranks.html

  11. #31
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    I was at the ONE Moto show in Portland Oregon earlier today, 3 day show, people from all over the US and world were there (its a BIG deal!) and should be a bunch of pix and videos online shortly, I might soon post some pix, But thought of this thread as there was several UNIT BSA bikes there at the show but a very nice well build BSA Unit twin Bobber similar to this frames lines was there. I took some pix.
    (Will post soon in next few days, It takes a bit to convert the files and resize)

    I know Ed G, He helped me out a with a bunch of info on my 1947 Villiers Famous James. Seems like a good guy. I have never used his cranks, But theres enough people out there using them they must be okay, But be advised, Most of them are rephased. 270 degree which helps and makes a very interesting motor for many reasons. But its not for everyone and a bit complicated.
    You have to run a special cam and ignition to do it, I think he offers all that, But instead of a 350 deg twin its rephased like a Ducati*.

    * The reasons for running a 270 degree crank is it has some advantages, The vibration is not as bad, but it HAS to be dynamically balanced, But the 1-2 stroke cancels out the vibration a bit so it revs very smooth and can run higher RPM. We did this on Sir Eddys LSR Norton to run up to 11,000 RPM.
    Eddy built his crank with machining. Ed G cranks does his by cutting and welding in a Jig, which Sir Eddy was horrified at, But clearly does work, but I doubt they can run as high RPMs, but clearly he has had good luck with them, Some guy on BritBike runs one and has posted high power numbers.

  12. #32

    Default front end

    I have everything ready for the front end! Mullins skinny trees,35mm forks,35mm rebuild kit and BSA neck conversion from lowbrow....[ATTACHClick image for larger version. 

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  13. #33

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    I got my lower legs shaved down, just a little more work and forks ready to be put back togetherClick image for larger version. 

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