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  1. #1
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    Default Winter project : swing-arm fender (fixed images)


    First time doing this....

    Last night I started piecing together a swing-arm fender for my push-button '91. I have about 2mm of clearance between the sissy bung and the belt pulley. I think I can move the bungs to the outside of the shock mount (between the mount and the shock), but I'll need to take some material off the bungs so they don't interfere with the shock. Once that is sorted I think my order of operations is :

    1. check fitment again
    2. weld tabs onto sissy
    3. weld bungs onto fender for bolts (not sure if this is necessary?)
    4. figure out how to attach the fender to the swing-arm....on-going mystery.
    5. cut off existing fender struts
    6. mount tail light

    Anything else I should think about? Any feedback and/or opinions are welcome.

    Thanks in advance.

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    Last edited by PBRStreetgang; 10-18-2018 at 11:22 AM.

  2. #2

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    I have a shovelhead. I mounted the fender to the sissy w no bungs. In the front I put a bolt through the back of the swing arm to the front of the fender. People said it wouldn’t work but it’s been 4years. I do not put weight on it

  3. #3
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    You can use a thick steel L bracket from the front facing side of the fender to the top of the swing arm. Something like this you could easily manipulate the shape slightly to fit the profile of the fender. Id have a threaded bung welded to both the fender and swing arm so you can put a bolt in with a lock washer, etc. Id go on the side of beefier than flimsy, so I'd stay away from anything 1/8" or thinner for the steel bracket. 5/16" bolt size minimally. Just my $0.02. Or weld the bracket to the fender and just through bolt it through the swing arm. My only other suggestion is to not through bolt into the fender as you need access to the bolt heads and you want to think about removal/assembly at any point. You dont want to take your wheel off to get your fender off.
    Last edited by brooklynbomber; 10-19-2018 at 12:04 PM.

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    Can you manipulate the bend on your sissy bar some to keep it on the inside of the shock? I like how tight they sit that way. Your pulley will not flex so I'd give it maybe 3/8"-1/2" clearance and you're good, it will all move together as a unit.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.

    I don't have the ability to accurately bend 9/16" metal rod. With this, manipulating the sissy bend isn't in the cards. I dinked around with bung placement last night and was able to reach fitment yielding 1/2" of clearance from the drive pulley for the bungs. I didn't need to shave the bungs on the mill, I put in two lock washers and clearance worked out. Looks pretty-Ok.

    I found a chunk of old hose and am using it to get the fender placement correct.

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    Last edited by PBRStreetgang; 12-19-2018 at 9:19 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PBRStreetgang View Post
    Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.

    I don't have the ability to accurately bend 9/16" metal rod. With this, manipulating the sissy bend isn't in the cards. I dinked around with bung placement last night and was able to reach fitment yielding 1/2" of clearance from the drive pulley for the bungs. I didn't need to shave the bungs on the mill, I put in two lock washers and clearance worked out. Looks pretty-Ok.
    Iím glad you got the sissy bar close in still, I think thatís going to look very cool once you get it done.

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    My only other suggestion is to not through bolt into the fender as you need access to the bolt heads and you want to think about removal/assembly at any point. You dont want to take your wheel off to get your fender off.
    An option if bolt heads are accessible, is to weld nuts to the inside of the fender. To strengthen it further, drill a hole(s) through flat bar, weld nuts into the holes and mount that inside the fender. The flat bar could be tacked inside the fender or bolted with a smaller bolt.


    I don't have the ability to accurately bend 9/16" metal rod.
    To accurately bend thicker materials of any shape, cut part way through it, bend it, then fill in the gap with weld.


    I found a chunk of old hose and am using it to get the fender placement correct.
    You can lay a 530 final drive chain over the wheel for spacing the fender.
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 10-31-2018 at 5:44 AM. Reason: add chain spacer, sp

  8. #8
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    Again, thanks for the help and suggestions. Great ideas.

    This is how the bung / clearance issue worked out :

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    I've been thinking about how to bring the fender and sissy bar together. I found tabs on both lowbrow and ebay, but I'm thinking making my own seems pretty simple. A visit to the local Home Depot was in order and I found some flat bar for $6 :

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    I cut a chunk off, cut that in half, and then drilled a hole and put in a bolt. I then put them on my bench grinder to try to make them a little bit more presentable. They worked out pretty Ok and I still have a ton of material left to make a bracket to hold the taillight and maybe some tabs for the license plate.

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  9. #9
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    I can't weld. Well, let me walk that back....

    About 15 years ago I took a welding class at the local community college. We had opportunities with stick, mig, and tig. I concentrated on stick. I worked as a farm-hand for seven years during middle and high school and I saw the farmer execute some amazing fixes in the field (literally...) with stick. During class I got proficient with stick, but haven't used it since the class (I didn't go out and buy the Lincoln tombstone like I thought....).

    27 years forward, and I'm sitting in my garage looking at my homemade tabs and 9/16" bar wondering how to put these together.

    Yesterday I borrowed a low-grade 90 amp flux core Harbor Freight welder from a co-worker. He got it from a tent sale for $35. Minus the occasional case of beer, no one will be riding on the back of this fender. So I thought, "..what the hey, give 'er a whirl..."

    Well, turns out that I can't weld (very well at least...).

    I did a few practice runs and made a few ugly boogers. Good enough. At least I figured out to booger up the inside of the tab so no one will see my monstrosities.

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    Turned out Ok from the outside.

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    Last edited by PBRStreetgang; 10-31-2018 at 6:27 AM.

  10. #10
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    "I can't weld. Well...turns out that I can't weld (very well at least...)...made a few ugly boogers. Good enough."
    It looks like you got a cold weld with little or no penetration. I'm not a welder, but it kinda looks like a blob of glue on there...need more amps and go slower to melt the parent metals together...I wouldn't run it like that...practice more with that little budget welder that you are not yet familiar with - looks like ya got a long bar of material to practice on. preparation is the key...don't want to lose that case of beer!
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    Intro: Learning to Weld
    https://www.instructables.com/id/Learning-to-Weld/

    Stick Welding - How To Create High Quality Welds
    https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-c...ds-detail.aspx

  11. #11
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    It's not you, it's that FCAW shitbox. Those horrid little machines exist to piss people off. You can preheat thicker material (including your flat and round bar) with a torch but they are intended for thin stock. Preheating helps.

    Always perform a weld or several on scrap to get your settings right.
    It helped our graduates set heat on unfamiliar (and often worn out, companies keep the good stuff in the field) machines during hiring tests. We even covered the panel indicator on stick/TIG machines to force them to do it.

    Everyone in this forum interested in welding should spend time on Weldingweb and the Miller welding forums. You'll thank me later no matter what process interests you.

    Small wire welder sticky:
    https://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...-110-volt-migs

    https://weldingweb.com/forumdisplay....y-Fuel-Welding
    Last edited by farmall; 10-31-2018 at 9:55 AM.

  12. #12
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    Farmall has it right.

    Years ago I agreed to help a friend do some welding since he said he had a machine and I didn’t have one at the time. The little HF welder was what he had and turned out some horrible welds. I currently use a little Millermatic 211 and it’s been a blast to have around. I can’t recommend enough having 220v capability. It’s always nice to have more amps on tap if needed. That being said, for what your doing Hobart makes some nice 110v welders that will blow that HF box away. Spend the extra bucks on a shielding gas setup if your always welding in a shop.

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    Also, tack that shit and take it off the bike so you can get into a better position to final weld. (if you did that, disregard)

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    Thanks fellas. Much appreciated. Digging into the collective knowledge, do you think I (...or maybe someone else with a quality welder) could go over these with a better bead or do I need to make new tabs and start over all together? Alternatively, if these hold up to a hammer whack-test are we still dubious regarding them holding the fender and going down the road?

    ​Thanks again for your thoughts. ​

  15. #15
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    You can grind off the nasties then "feather" the remainder of the welds leaving couple of tacks then weld over the tacks. No need to cut everything off. In future you can tack at home then carry your work to a more capable machine.

    Check Youtube vids by searching "feathering tack welds" etc for examples.

    Practice on scrap of course.

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    Thanks all. I finally got around to taking the grinder to those welds. I took everything off, cleaned them up, and re-tacked them. After work today I stopped by a shop and they welded them with a much more capable machine. I think the penetration on this is much better? Not the prettiest, but they did it for the right price of free. A few pics to share :

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    Last edited by PBRStreetgang; 11-08-2018 at 7:24 AM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by PBRStreetgang View Post
    Thanks all. I finally got around to taking the grinder to those welds. I took everything off, cleaned them up, and re-tacked them. After work today I stopped by a shop and they welded them with a much more capable machine. I think the penetration on this is much better? Not the prettiest, but they did it for the right price of free. A few pics to share :

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    Free is free, but man - those still look real rough.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theonlychrisj View Post
    Free is free, but man - those still look real rough.
    As long as they hold. My dog is ugly too, but I still love it.

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    Can you post a pic of your dog

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Can you post a pic of your dog
    Best shop dog ever.

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