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  1. #1
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    Default BSA hardtail wheel adjusters.

    I have a David Bird hardtail that I welded on my BSA. I'm setting up the rear wheel spacing to line up with the motor. I see lots of pics with a lollipop style bolt pointing aft to a rectangular cap over the end of the dropout. I don't see anywhere that sells this setup. Do I just buy the bolts and fabric the end cap? I looked on the Bird website but it's under construction. Thanks in advance.

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    what type of rear wheel? What model of BSA ya got? What does the BSA bird hardtail look like at the axle?

    pics, we need pics.

    look here, maybe, depending on what ya got..:
    https://www.classicbritishspares.com...0-t140-tr7-a65

    or this:
    https://www.classicbritishspares.com...ter-1-37-2089s

    or:
    https://www.classicbritishspares.com/products/37-3742
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 12-09-2018 at 7:49 PM.

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a 1970 Firebird with a 2" stretch and a 2" drop. I have a mid 70's triumph rear wheel.

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    Think this will work with that wheel:

    2 Drive Chain Adjusters,(OEM part #37-37420), Triumph BSA Adjuster, $29.99
    Click image for larger version. 

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    https://www.ebay.com/p/2-Drive-Chain...d=321873220318

    Looks nice with that springer.

    Seen this guy's frame mod?

    2014 Thread: BSA A65 Re Build
    "The plans are to use the David bird 2" stretch 2" drop hardtail but get rid of the double downtube part of the stock frame..."
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40197
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 12-11-2018 at 7:40 AM.

  5. #5
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    I don't remember where I read it, but a lot of BSA hardtails are set up to use Triumph adjusters. I think the ones TriNortchopz posted are the OIF type, which will work. Look at some earlier ones. They're a little cleaner looking.

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    Not a very useful picture to illustrate what you need, But thats a 1971-73 Conical rear wheel, and the axle diameter is much smaller than the 1950s-1970 Triumph rear wheel. Id have to measure but I think 9/16th vs 1"?? If you look at the mechanical speedo drives the difference is obvious, IE: Tiny hole vs big hole. So, thats a issue.

    A 1963-1970 rear wheel adjuster is a lollipop with a rectangular bracket/cap, and typically has serrations on the inside of the Lollipop and a threaded shaft and nut. There is a right way and wrong way to install them. Also, there is specific special axle nuts for the rear axle as well as a spacer and a bearing support for ID of the wheel, as well as another spacer/bearing support that goes UNDER the speedo drive, You can cap off the speedo drive side and remove the threaded distance piece that the speedo drive rides on (One side threaded, the other with 2 slots). But the issue is to run the conical hub, you will have to make spacer and possibly adapters. It COULD be done.... But to do it right you have to know what the parts look like and how it fits together first.

    Look at a 1971 IPB for a 650 Triumph and a 1969 or 1970 IPB again for a 650 Triumph and you will see how it works.

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    Another issue is knowing the rear brake lever setup; conical hub was used from '71-'75, but the brake lever on the hub in 1971 was different - it pointed down.
    From '72 - '75, the brake lever pointed up.
    "The 1971 rear brake lever and spring are not the same as the 1972-1975 types and should not be interchanged, only if the rear brake lever and return spring are changed all together...Although they look the same they are different."
    https://www.classicbritishspares.com...er-differences

    I see the '73 T140 axle is 10 5/8" x 5/8" diameter:
    http://www.mapcycle.com/1973-t140v-t...ear-wheel.html

    Here you can see the different brake levers and brake spring parts - pointing up or down:
    https://nvt-motorcycles.com/en/trium...582/rear-wheel

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    Sorry about the bad pic, Thanks for the rear wheel Info. Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
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    Not sure why it keeps rotating my pics.

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