REcycle bin royal enfield twin

[razorrichter]

21” and 16” shinko 270 classic they are cheap haha!

[KELD]

I like this!

[razorrichter]

Getting there

Mock-up then mock-up

[razorrichter]

More mockery

Got the frame welded together I always forget how spaghetti based Royal enfold frames are. Engine is in place still need to get primary sorted I’m planning on running it open seems like a greatly bad idea

[datadavid]

Got the frame welded together I always forget how spaghetti based Royal enfold frames are. Engine is in place still need to get primary sorted I’m planning on running it open seems like a greatly bad idea

I wouldnt want to ride it w/o some bracing pipe between lower and upper frame rails behind the engine, looks like it could act as unwanted suspension?

[razorrichter]

I wouldnt want to ride it w/o some bracing pipe between lower and upper frame rails behind the engine, looks like it could act as unwanted suspension?

Oh yeah I still have a lot of shit I want to add to the frame to make it more of a frame

[razorrichter]

Clutch mock up

Still need to make some kind of main shaft support

[razorrichter]

Trans support

This is fiction don’t do that don’t weld bearings. That being said I wanted to make a quick support for the exceptionally lone main shaft that holds the rather heavy scissor clutch so I hope this help a little

[razorrichter]

Front end started

Pulled the springs to get a right height so I can mod them for this stance

[razorrichter]

More progress

Single carb manifold lines the carb up to hit the frame so I moded one with a single cylinder manifold just need to weld it made progress on clutch and got the forks chopped and dropped
Next is tank and wiring
I’m at a loss on my solution for foot peg/controls
Oh and going to run triumph 650 TT pipes

[TriNortchopz]

Nice fab work. What position ya plannin' to plant your feet? What's with the riser bolted to the frame cross rail?

[farmall]

The welded bearing is an OK way to mock up but it's not sealed and seals would have melted during the weld. I predict noisy crunchiness over time.

Doing it right won't be expensive now you've validated the bearing position. For example you could bring a proper, sealed bearing to your local machine shop and have them turn a ring with an inner lip on the sprocket side and a snap ring groove on the outboard side. 4140 or similar machines nicely and can be welded. Weld bracket to ring, press in bearing, install snap ring and done. I'd use at least 1/4" thick stock for the final bracket.

If you want to stay ghetto and weld a sealed bearing don't do that in one shot. Make a small tack, let cool and repeat some distance away from the first tack until done. Of course tool steel doesn't weld very well but it's a lightly loaded application and since old motorcycles are basically farm equipment you can get away with a lot.

I’m at a loss on my solution for foot peg/controls

A versatile mounting method is tapped blocks welded to frame tubes. Check out stock Dyna mid control designs (which of course place the shifter on the wrong side for old Britbikes). If you basically copy that style you can do all the fiddly fab off the motorcycle without disturbing the frame. Note the angle of the folding footpeg mounts.

You can buy all sorts of Harley peg mounts and pegs. The simplest are usually stock style forward control peg mounts with one bolt holding them to the mount plate from behind.

[DustyDave]

Not enough room for a flange bearing? Even if you get the camlock type and leave the lock off? One of the light duty narrow flange bearings?Dusty

[farmall]

One might work but they mount using bolts (which take up space near the sprocket in this application) though the steel flange can be welded far enough away from the bearing not to cook seals. That;s why I suggested a custom ring. It's the minimalist solution which can use any grade bearing desired in an easily replaceable manner. Light duty bearings are something I'd avoid on a sprocket shaft.

Style example for those not familiar with flange bearings: https://www.primebearing.com/SBPF205...lt-Flange.html

BTW there's no electrical reason you couldn't partially submerge a flanged bearing (or anything else) in plain water to keep the rest of the part cool during welding. Stick a loose vise etc in a tub of water, weld, then remove and blow dry part and vise. If in doubt about the seals, coat with grease or RTV first to prevent water intrusion. I use RTV to seal wheel bearings (along with an allthread dummy axle and flat washers) for wheel sand blasting and powder coating. Peels right off when done.

[razorrichter]

Well....

Nice fab work. What position ya plannin' to plant your feet? What's with the riser bolted to the frame cross rail?

I was hoping no one would notice the riser haha it was inspiration for a chain tensioner I have now ditch that idea I’m probably just gonna buy one.... again the point of this build was to spends no money and just recycle parts
As far as the foot controls my main issue is the fact that there is no lower section of a frame the original foot pegs go through the main engine mount underneath the transmission which kind of puts my feet too far back
my only other option is to somehow mounted to the front down tube of the frame but I’m not sure if I want to do it like that.....