21” and 16” shinko 270 classic they are cheap haha!
REcycle bin royal enfield twin
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I wouldnt want to ride it w/o some bracing pipe between lower and upper frame rails behind the engine, looks like it could act as unwanted suspension?Comment
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More progress
Single carb manifold lines the carb up to hit the frame so I moded one with a single cylinder manifold just need to weld it made progress on clutch and got the forks chopped and dropped
Next is tank and wiring
I’m at a loss on my solution for foot peg/controls
Oh and going to run triumph 650 TT pipesComment
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Nice fab work. What position ya plannin' to plant your feet? What's with the riser bolted to the frame cross rail?If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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The welded bearing is an OK way to mock up but it's not sealed and seals would have melted during the weld. I predict noisy crunchiness over time.
Doing it right won't be expensive now you've validated the bearing position. For example you could bring a proper, sealed bearing to your local machine shop and have them turn a ring with an inner lip on the sprocket side and a snap ring groove on the outboard side. 4140 or similar machines nicely and can be welded. Weld bracket to ring, press in bearing, install snap ring and done. I'd use at least 1/4" thick stock for the final bracket.
If you want to stay ghetto and weld a sealed bearing don't do that in one shot. Make a small tack, let cool and repeat some distance away from the first tack until done. Of course tool steel doesn't weld very well but it's a lightly loaded application and since old motorcycles are basically farm equipment you can get away with a lot.
I’m at a loss on my solution for foot peg/controls
You can buy all sorts of Harley peg mounts and pegs. The simplest are usually stock style forward control peg mounts with one bolt holding them to the mount plate from behind.Last edited by farmall; 02-10-2019, 9:04 AM.Comment
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Not enough room for a flange bearing? Even if you get the camlock type and leave the lock off? One of the light duty narrow flange bearings?DustyDriving that train, high on cocaine
Casey Jones you better, watch your speed
Trouble ahead, trouble behind
And you know that notion just crossed my mindComment
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One might work but they mount using bolts (which take up space near the sprocket in this application) though the steel flange can be welded far enough away from the bearing not to cook seals. That;s why I suggested a custom ring. It's the minimalist solution which can use any grade bearing desired in an easily replaceable manner. Light duty bearings are something I'd avoid on a sprocket shaft.
Style example for those not familiar with flange bearings: https://www.primebearing.com/SBPF205...lt-Flange.html
BTW there's no electrical reason you couldn't partially submerge a flanged bearing (or anything else) in plain water to keep the rest of the part cool during welding. Stick a loose vise etc in a tub of water, weld, then remove and blow dry part and vise. If in doubt about the seals, coat with grease or RTV first to prevent water intrusion. I use RTV to seal wheel bearings (along with an allthread dummy axle and flat washers) for wheel sand blasting and powder coating. Peels right off when done.Last edited by farmall; 02-10-2019, 6:04 PM.Comment
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Well....
As far as the foot controls my main issue is the fact that there is no lower section of a frame the original foot pegs go through the main engine mount underneath the transmission which kind of puts my feet too far back
my only other option is to somehow mounted to the front down tube of the frame but I’m not sure if I want to do it like that.....Comment
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