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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by datadavid View Post
    I wouldnt want to ride it w/o some bracing pipe between lower and upper frame rails behind the engine, looks like it could act as unwanted suspension?
    Oh yeah I still have a lot of shit I want to add to the frame to make it more of a frame

  2. #22

    Default Clutch mock up

    Still need to make some kind of main shaft support
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails E79ECABC-CA15-423F-96E6-92B716BA4DBE.jpg  

  3. #23

    Default Trans support

    This is fiction donít do that donít weld bearings. That being said I wanted to make a quick support for the exceptionally lone main shaft that holds the rather heavy scissor clutch so I hope this help a little
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CBC3B0C0-26EC-4A4C-A1B2-D40DB97AB530.jpg  

  4. #24

    Default Front end started

    Pulled the springs to get a right height so I can mod them for this stance
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  5. #25

    Default More progress

    Single carb manifold lines the carb up to hit the frame so I moded one with a single cylinder manifold just need to weld it made progress on clutch and got the forks chopped and dropped
    Next is tank and wiring
    Iím at a loss on my solution for foot peg/controls
    Oh and going to run triumph 650 TT pipes
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 36E8EF25-0C2A-498C-B63A-E36671415380.jpg   0EC86541-D486-4267-8E7C-F94A10CDF55D.jpg   C0A19AC5-03D9-464B-AD66-47C998CFC95B.jpg  

  6. #26
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    Default

    Nice fab work. What position ya plannin' to plant your feet? What's with the riser bolted to the frame cross rail?

  7. #27
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    The welded bearing is an OK way to mock up but it's not sealed and seals would have melted during the weld. I predict noisy crunchiness over time.

    Doing it right won't be expensive now you've validated the bearing position. For example you could bring a proper, sealed bearing to your local machine shop and have them turn a ring with an inner lip on the sprocket side and a snap ring groove on the outboard side. 4140 or similar machines nicely and can be welded. Weld bracket to ring, press in bearing, install snap ring and done. I'd use at least 1/4" thick stock for the final bracket.

    If you want to stay ghetto and weld a sealed bearing don't do that in one shot. Make a small tack, let cool and repeat some distance away from the first tack until done. Of course tool steel doesn't weld very well but it's a lightly loaded application and since old motorcycles are basically farm equipment you can get away with a lot.

    I’m at a loss on my solution for foot peg/controls
    A versatile mounting method is tapped blocks welded to frame tubes. Check out stock Dyna mid control designs (which of course place the shifter on the wrong side for old Britbikes). If you basically copy that style you can do all the fiddly fab off the motorcycle without disturbing the frame. Note the angle of the folding footpeg mounts.

    You can buy all sorts of Harley peg mounts and pegs. The simplest are usually stock style forward control peg mounts with one bolt holding them to the mount plate from behind.
    Last edited by farmall; 6 Days Ago at 10:04 AM.

  8. #28
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    Not enough room for a flange bearing? Even if you get the camlock type and leave the lock off? One of the light duty narrow flange bearings?Dusty

  9. #29
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    One might work but they mount using bolts (which take up space near the sprocket in this application) though the steel flange can be welded far enough away from the bearing not to cook seals. That;s why I suggested a custom ring. It's the minimalist solution which can use any grade bearing desired in an easily replaceable manner. Light duty bearings are something I'd avoid on a sprocket shaft.

    Style example for those not familiar with flange bearings: https://www.primebearing.com/SBPF205...lt-Flange.html

    BTW there's no electrical reason you couldn't partially submerge a flanged bearing (or anything else) in plain water to keep the rest of the part cool during welding. Stick a loose vise etc in a tub of water, weld, then remove and blow dry part and vise. If in doubt about the seals, coat with grease or RTV first to prevent water intrusion. I use RTV to seal wheel bearings (along with an allthread dummy axle and flat washers) for wheel sand blasting and powder coating. Peels right off when done.
    Last edited by farmall; 5 Days Ago at 7:04 PM.

  10. #30

    Default Well....

    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Nice fab work. What position ya plannin' to plant your feet? What's with the riser bolted to the frame cross rail?
    I was hoping no one would notice the riser haha it was inspiration for a chain tensioner I have now ditch that idea Iím probably just gonna buy one.... again the point of this build was to spends no money and just recycle parts
    As far as the foot controls my main issue is the fact that there is no lower section of a frame the original foot pegs go through the main engine mount underneath the transmission which kind of puts my feet too far back
    my only other option is to somehow mounted to the front down tube of the frame but Iím not sure if I want to do it like that.....

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorrichter View Post
    I’m at a loss on my solution for foot peg/controls
    Oh and going to run triumph 650 TT pipes
    As far as the foot controls my main issue is the fact that there is no lower section of a frame the original foot pegs go through the main engine mount underneath the transmission which kind of puts my feet too far back
    my only other option is to somehow mounted to the front down tube of the frame but I’m not sure if I want to do it like that.....
    Can you bolt peg mounts onto metal plates, then bolt the plates to your front engine mounting plates? You could build the plates to curve around under the engine with pegs located below the primary chain tensioner pivot. Just need to work around those yet to be modified TT pipes...kinda like I did on my Norton (pegs into a plate bolted to engine plate):
    Click image for larger version. 

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    why can't you make that riser work for a chain tensioner? Put a bronze split sleeve around the tube, bore out hole for slide fit, and old small #50 sprocket and a spring...
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 4 Days Ago at 9:35 PM. Reason: riser

  12. #32
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    BTW there's no electrical reason you couldn't partially submerge a flanged bearing (or anything else) in plain water to keep the rest of the part cool during welding. Stick a loose vise etc in a tub of water, weld, then remove and blow dry part and vise. If in doubt about the seals, coat with grease or RTV first to prevent water intrusion. I use RTV to seal wheel bearings (along with an allthread dummy axle and flat washers) for wheel sand blasting and powder coating. Peels right off when done.[/QUOTE]

    Farmall
    I was thinking flange for the self aligning. I know you have a mill and a lathe but most don't. When Welding with something that needs protecting from heat I usually, tie , clamp, hold etc. a wet rag whole lots less hassle than submerging.

    Razorrichter,
    Why not just build something that clamps to the lower frame rail that has the hole for the controls. Are the bottom tubes the same size at where you have the riser clamped? If so maybe drill a hole and saw off the extra?
    Dusty

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Can you bolt peg mounts onto metal plates, then bolt the plates to your front engine mounting plates? You could build the plates to curve around under the engine with pegs located below the primary chain tensioner pivot. Just need to work around those yet to be modified TT pipes...kinda like I did on my Norton (pegs into a plate bolted to engine plate):
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	850 Norton chop,front-left.jpg 
Views:	1 
Size:	296.0 KB 
ID:	91009
    why can't you make that riser work for a chain tensioner? Put a bronze split sleeve around the tube, bore out hole for slide fit, and old small #50 sprocket and a spring...
    I’m glad you say that I was thinking about that and now seeing yours I feel like I could get away with it for sure that will be the plan then as far as the tensioner I think I’m going to try and tackle that we’ll see what I can make happen

  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustyDave View Post

    Razorrichter,
    Why not just build something that clamps to the lower frame rail that has the hole for the controls. Are the bottom tubes the same size at where you have the riser clamped? If so maybe drill a hole and saw off the extra?
    Dusty
    I would love to except the frame ends under the trans and that puts my feet too far back.... hip cramps dude
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 23D43802-AB22-49D2-8305-CED323892B1B.jpeg  

  15. #35
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    From the pics it appears there's enough room underneath to fab a subframe and weld it to the existing frame or make it removable. If it's removable that would be easiest to work on. You might pick up the front mount plates and whatever that rear bolt (appears to be a through-bolt) is below/behind the engine.

    You don't have to use tubing for the subframe or all the subframe. Flat bar could tuck in close.

  16. #36
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    Wow, when I was a pup I had a Enfield, loved the neutral finder.
    Going to keep track of this thread.

  17. #37

    Default Tank

    Got the tank paint done up by my kid brother
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ACD1D534-AD0B-4C62-B6F8-28FB32A92211.jpg  

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