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  1. #61
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    Rubber (fuel injection or ATF rated hose, not that generic shit on the wall at many auto stores) beats AN on motorcycles (brake lines of course excepted) for ease of maintenance and roadside repair. Ebay sells cut lengths cheaper than auto stores.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revelator View Post
    If Your frame has 46 degree rake, I think a 16" over fork would sit similar to
    my 40 degree Paughco, or maybe even a bit higher in front. I would not go 12"


    * front wheel is a 19" and it looks like Your bike is also running a 19" on front.
    I ordered a 16” over springer from Mick’s Chop Shop. Also, I’ll be running a 21” wheel. We’ll see how she looks.

  3. #63
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    Got a little done on the scoot today. Rebuilt the CV carb, shit was nasty. Green corrosion and pond water inside. Rejetted and installed a few goodies from CV-Performance. Should run like a dream now.



    Got the fender and new wheel mocked up. Looks pretty good. Gotta make a sissy bar and fender mounts.



    Got the inner primary off and mocked up the belt drive. Had to make a spacer for the front hub to get the pulley closer to the motor without hitting the splines. Belt rides straight and about 1/8" from the engine rotor. Need to cut and reinstall the inner primary, then cut the outer so I can retain the starter bearing while keeping as much open as possible. Also just realized the crank says Accel on it? The fuck does that mean? Didn't notice til I posted this picture.




    I also installed an N1 drum in the 5 speed. Shifts fine, but the top cover won't go back on. It's really close, but hitting something. The N1 drum fits early and late 5 speeds, so I'm assuming the early cable clutch top covers are a little different. Gonna call Baker tomorrow.
    Last edited by Tippyman; 01-08-2019 at 7:21 PM.

  4. #64
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    Dude that looks AWESOME. That rear end with spokes and that cleaner fender shape are PERFECT. Can't wait to see you slap that springer on there.

  5. #65
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    Also just realized the crank says Accel on it? The fuck does that mean? Didn't notice til I posted this picture.
    Accell supplies 'Super Shaft" HD engine shafts; sprocket shafts, pinion shafts and crankpins
    http://www.cas4.com/engine/engine-flywheels2.html

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Accell supplies 'Super Shaft" HD engine shafts; sprocket shafts, pinion shafts and crankpins
    http://www.cas4.com/engine/engine-flywheels2.html
    Yeah I saw some “super shafts” on ebay and figured that’s what it was. Didn’t realize they were seperate from the crank itself. Only benefit seemed to be better oiling?

    Also Bpeak, got a pic of the finished springer today.


  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by tippyman View Post
    yeah i saw some “super shafts” on ebay and figured that’s what it was. Didn’t realize they were seperate from the crank itself. Only benefit seemed to be better oiling?

    Also bpeak, got a pic of the finished springer today.

    yes!!!!!!!

  8. #68
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    Chopped the primary into a sort of electric start open primary. Think I’m gonna do some engraving all over it to dress it up some.


    Personally, I thought it would look better. Little dissapointed, but might do more trimming or just engrave the shit out of it to make it look better.

  9. #69
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    Lightening holes are a classic way to break up surfaces like that upper zone of the primary cover.

  10. #70
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    Looks good to me. What happened to the fwd alternator cover portion? Would be nice to have that covered, if not no biggy either.

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by seaking View Post
    Looks good to me. What happened to the fwd alternator cover portion? Would be nice to have that covered, if not no biggy either.
    I still have the chopped off pieces, Guess I could trim them up to cover the rotor. I was just trying to keep it as naked as possible. Might actually be a good thing that the back of the clutch is covered, I could definitely see a passenger missing the peg and shoving their foot into the clutch.

    Shoulda bought a 4 speed bike. Oh well. If anything else, I’ve learned a bunch about what not to do haha.

    Has anyone here ran forward controls with some high mid pegs? I was thinking the second set of pegs would make long rides nicer to change up footing position every once in a while. Wasn’t sure if they’d get in the way when I had my feet on the fwd pegs though.
    Last edited by Tippyman; 01-18-2019 at 11:47 AM.

  12. #72
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    Got some work done on the bike. Taped a chain to the tire to space the fender evenly. Cranked the adjusters all the way out so the wheel has the most adjustment and space up front. Actually looks like where the factory fender bolted up will work perfect.






    Also got all the unnecessary brackets ground off and seat area cleaned up.




  13. #73
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    Got the fender mounted. Made some super simple spacers and bolted it straight to the existing holes in the frame. Got a mock up of approximate sissy bar angle.






    Also started working on my taillight. It will mount to the back of the king and queen seat. ‘89 Cadillac light with some of those 3M backed cut-to-length LED strip lights for illumination.



    Running light:



    Brake light:


  14. #74
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    Springer mocked up.



  15. #75
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    looks good. A little extra ground clearance in the mid section is good to
    have on a long wheelbase chopper. good job.

    Have you considered using one of chopperdaves alternator covers?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	chopper dave's alt cover.jpg 
Views:	0 
Size:	114.4 KB 
ID:	90657


    or... you could always run a primo alternator cover, at considerably lower cost.

  16. #76
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    Made some dumb foot pegs.



  17. #77
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    Got my sissy bar made and mounted. Made a jig table by tack welding some 3/16 plate to 4 jack stands. Booty fab at its finest.



    Drew out my measurements and welded studs to the plate to bend around.







    Got the angle I wanted then mounted it up with some bullet bungs.



  18. #78
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    Got the seat pan made. I had galvanized 16g laying around, and I held my breath and tried to weld it as best I could. It did ok, but pretty shitty. Seat pan came out pretty legit though.





    Added a little rebar support rod to the back:



    It works!



    Foam is next.
    Last edited by Tippyman; 02-03-2019 at 9:17 PM.

  19. #79
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    Made a trim panel out of perforated stainless, and an arch that matches the seat. Taillight looks perfect on the back.



  20. #80
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    Got the seat foam and taillight housing done today. 1” neoprene base layer, 3/8 gel insert, then a 1” medium density wheelchair foam top layer. Wrapped foam tape around the edge of the seat to fill in my grinding and turkey cutter imperfections.





    Taillight was more of a task than I thought originally, but came out good I think.




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