1983 FXRT Build: First Foray into American Motorsickles

[TriNortchopz]

What I see in your pics is how the tube at the bottom of the neck is bent, and looks long compared to the Paughco catalog for a stock 30 degree rake.
Is there a part number on that frame? Just wondering how Paughco supplied you with the frame details.
#S139 is what you were provided.

In their catalog, I see rakes available in 30, 35 and 40 degrees, with either 0, or 2 1/4" up:

http://www.paughco.com/2008-catalog/pdf/SECT04-frames.pdf

[Tippyman]

What I see in your pics is how the tube at the bottom of the neck is bent, and looks long compared to the Paughco catalog for a stock 30 degree rake.
Is there a part number on that frame? Just wondering how Paughco supplied you with the frame details.
#S139 is what you were provided.

In their catalog, I see rakes available in 30, 35 and 40 degrees, with either 0, or 2 1/4" up:

http://www.paughco.com/2008-catalog/...T04-frames.pdf

I emailed them the serial number on the neck and they told me the date/specs.

[Tattooo]

I emailed them the serial number on the neck and they told me the date/specs.

What did they tell you or is it a secret???

[Tippyman]

What did they tell you or is it a secret???

I just got a response from Paughco. It’s a straight leg frame with a factory style neck, zero stretch and a 30 degree raked neck.
Set up for a 5 speed transmission and chain rear drive

That’s all Paughco told me. I emailed them the pictures today and they said it was definitely 30* when it left the factory in ‘94, so someone has modified it.

[farmall]

You'll find out when you take the bike down for paint if ya can't see any mods as-is. I have mine sand blasted by monument companies since they have manly blast pots and engine-driven compressors. Gets any body filler etc off nicely.

[Tippyman]

Took some measurements on the front end. I'm trying to buy an oversized springer to bring this thing up, but I'm afraid it'll look like this:



Here is the height of the front end, and the length of the fork. (length to the axle nut) Also, this is the rake of the fork as it sits level. Trail appears to be a ridiculous 11".





Any suggestions?

[TriNortchopz]

Looks like your fork measures about 36" from axle to top of leg...Stock measurement is about 31", so guessin' you got +6 extended fork tubes...

in 2012, SmittyFXR said:
"So I went and measured the 39mm dual-disc front end I have. It's definitely from an FXR, not sure which specific configuration although I know it's not from an FXLR (they were all single disc). Fork tubes are right at 31" from axle centerline to top of the tube, not counting the caps..."
Thread: FXR frontend swap question

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17343

Gonna take a bit of frame work to make it look like the digger-style picture ya posted^^.


Using a rake/trail calculator, assuming a 21" front wheel, using 47 degree rake, 2.4" tree offset, and 36.5" fork length, it calculates to 11.28" trail...

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rakeandtrail.html

Which is right on with your measurement, "Trail appears to be a ridiculous 11"

So, what is that you want...less rake? longer forks? springer?

Rake and Trail



Another method commonly used to decrease trail is to use forks that have the wheel axle offset forward of the fork tube axis as seen on many racing bikes using hydraulic forks.

Springer fork systems are another good example of offsetting the wheel axle and in the late sixties and early seventies we'd be running Springers with 12-inch long rockers in an attempt to keep reasonable trail on radically extended and raked bikes...

https://www.chopperhandbook.com/rake.htm

[Tippyman]

Gonna take a bit of frame work to make it look like the digger-style picture ya posted^^.

So, what is that you want...less rake? longer forks? springer?

No, no, I DON’T want it to look like that. I want it to look more “traditional” old chopper with a long springer front. I’m afraid with so much rake on the frame that my springer will have to be stupid long to look right. I’ve emailed the company I want a springer from to see what they think. I just want to bring it up some, I don’t want a super long and low big dogs style chop.

[Strangler]

Frame swap or de-rake what you have. Its going to look like it was stepped on until you bring that rake back under control.

[seaking]

Why did you buy this bike?

Was it to tear it down and store in your basement? Or were you going to ride it.

Because as it sits, it's a nice ride. Not a show stopping panhead, just a late shovel. But it has something those don't, it can eat some miles.

I'd get an extended wide-glide (they don't flex and the new ones have nice brakes) to play up the single speedo/fatbobs and bobtail fender, then MAYBE a longer sissy bar and a spoked rear wheel and call it done. End of story. Want to change it? Sell it and buy something earlier.

[TriNortchopz]

Can you post a good side view pic of the whole bike, sitting vertical (straight up) - on a block or somethin', not on its sidestand? How much does it 'sit-up'?

Now it only has about +6" tubes, so why would you need a "springer will have to be stupid long to look right", just get a ~ +8" springer...

[seaking]

Also, I would add that if the bike only runs on choke it has bad seals on the manifold. You check by hitting the manifold seals with wd40 or starter fluid (I can hear manifold leaks by ear) and if idle changes that's your problem. I'd also leave the carb alone since it looks so clean--they rarely need anything more than float adjustment or needle/seats if they've been sitting.

[Tippyman]

My goal is to ride the fuck out of it. I want a king and queen seat with a tall sissy, and a long front springer. My only fear is that with this frame the long front will just make it super low and long. I was hoping a long springer would bring the front up enough to look “normal” but I’m scared it’ll sill be super low, just longer.

[TriNortchopz]

No, no, I DON’T want it to look like that. I want it to look more “traditional” old chopper with a long springer front. I’m afraid with so much rake on the frame that my springer will have to be stupid long to look right. I’ve emailed the company I want a springer from to see what they think. I just want to bring it up some, I don’t want a super long and low big dogs style chop.

Extend the front rails for that more “traditional” look, and set your rake to get the length of springer you want...

...or like has been said, sell it and get what you want...

[farmall]

Post photos of the specific look you want. The internet is full of choppers. Throw up some examples so others can ID the mods.

Manifold seals are cheap and the carb will be off to swap them out anyway so I'd pull the float bowl and jets for inspection. Takes a few minutes. Use a JIS screwdriver. I have two of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The carb screws are JIS, not Phillips. Varnished low speed jets are standard on garage sitters, any carb, any brand.

Consider buying the frame. front end, wheels and sheet metal you actually want then building a rolling chassis. You can ride what you have for a season to get any bugs out then swap the engine and part out the rest. After you toss the split tanks for the usual tiny tank and replace the bobbed fender and rear wheel (the front will be gone along with the forks) what remains is a drivetrain.

I only had it running for a few minutes and it's puking oil out the back from some hoses.

Wet sumping is standard on Harleys which sit for a long time. It has a dry sump oil system whose oil tank gradually drains into the crankcase from sitting. I pull the timing plug (and anti-seize the threads) and start the bike outdoors letting the excess blow out. Reinstall plug, top off oil, ride.

Since you've never had a Shovel before you might not even like the thing after riding it a while. Throwing money at it before you know if you like the drive train is questionable.