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  1. #21
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    Front wheel came in early so managed to get it all buttoned up. It's a 21" x 1.60" chrome steel rim that i had laced with SS spokes and nipples. Dropped it to the local bike shop and had them fit up the NOS 2.75" Avon...so the wheel set is officially done and im fizzing about how they've both come up!!





  2. #22
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    god damn i want a starhub 21....

  3. #23
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    Some updates.

    Well things have been going slowly but surely..which is good. Rushing never results and a nice finished product. The big news is a pick my frame up from Steves this week...I'll come back to that.

    In the meantime my trans was leaking so i ripped it down...this was the culprit.
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    I'd previously machined the MDG spacer for the o-ring, however it had picked up and torn. Upon closer inspection i wasn't happy with the machine work and expected this same issue would happen again as i dont believe i quite got the groove spot on when i first machined it.

    So, in the gearbox i found -

    -MDG end play way out of spec
    -Countershaft thrust way out of spec
    -MDG Bushing to mainshaft way over spec

    So i machined a new MDG spacer, made a press tool and replaced the MDG bearing and honed ot size, added an O-ring to the groove present on the Andrews main drive gear, and re-assembled after a full clean down of everything. Good as new now.

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  4. #24
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  5. #25
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    The interesting part here is the frame. I always planned to hard tail my frame and Steve said he wanted to do it, so of course off we went.

    In order to do this we first needed a frame jig, so Steve built one. This is the ducks nuts of frame jigs. Built off of an original Panhead frame in mint condition, everything was machined from high grade aluminium and doweled for factory HD positions, as well as having full adjustability for the varying frame changes.






    Next, in order to get the lower rail bends the same as the Panhead frame Steve made a custom large radius former, and came up with a tricky bend solution to match the chain clearnace bend.





    I dont have a pic of the completed product yet but heres a few more, will update later in the week.





    Last edited by AndyNZ; 03-25-2019 at 3:07 PM.

  6. #26
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    So got the frame home and did the last of the trimming, removed the factory dash mounts as well as a few other brackets and unnecessary tabs, came up good.
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    I then test fitted the tank and cut off the front bracket as ill be using the split tank mounts at the front to mount this.

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    I liked the way the lines were looking so i fitted up the front end and rear wheel to see what work was needed. Two small issues in the front...
    1) The "Roller bearing conversion kit" had one incorrect bearing being it was too big on the ID and had no bottom bearing dust cover
    2) The crown nut is incorrect and for loose bearings so causes clearance issues with the top clamp.
    Both easy fixes and will suss in the coming weeks, no major hurry on these

    Rear wheel fit good but will need some adjusting. The frame has pulled in just on the left meaning we are just off line, a bit of tweaking will have the rear wheel and brake on with no offset lacing to the wheel needed which is ideal. Will take care of this in a two weeks when im back at Steves.

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    Had to sit on it and test the Bluetooth handlebars out....risers are being worked on ATM, got something cool going on...if it works...

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    In the meantime will be sorting the oil and gas tank mounting as well as gathering up fasteners for everything.

  7. #27
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    Started making small bites of progress on mounting the oil tank and gas tank.

    I found that once i actually sat the oil tank in the frame and bolted up the front mounts there were a number of issues.
    -The factory oil tank mount plate caused the oil tank to hit the upper rear frame rails so would need modifying, not good due to chrome on it
    -Making a new plate for the bottom was not an option due to clearance issues with the clutch arm
    -The shifter plate on the trans fouled the bottom front corner of the oil tank
    -The front mount on the oil tank was welded on crooked and offset so the tank sat further toward the kicker side than should be which made the line looking down from the top of the bike horrible

    So this was my solution. I made up a spacer plate (apparently factory spacers are 8mm) out of 5mm plate, then made a new front mount plate for the oil tank. I also made 2 threaded bungs and tabs to mount of the frame rear cross bar, these are just dummied in in the pics and will have plates welded in before being welded to the top of the tank to prevent cracking.








    Next up was the gas tank mount. I wanted to use the split tank mounts on the front and one at the rear giving effectively 3 mounting points which is much stronger, so i cut of the front tank made and made this up. Still needs final welding but should work well.





    Lastly, i started playing with headlight mounting. Going to mount at this height by turning a stepped bar that will mount between the lugs on the springer, should look cool.




    Another issue (if you can call it that) was that my rear tyre always bugged me, something just never looked right. Well Steve pointed out my rear rim looked off, after giving it a measure it is not the factory Harley 16" x 3" as i thought, its closer to 4.5" wide meaning the tyre was stretched on...Bingo, problem found. I've got a new 16" x 3" on the way as well as a new Avon SM MK2 to suit, do it once do it right.

    Oh yeah, as you can probably see now im literally building this in my lounge and on my deck...where theres a will theres a way right
    Last edited by AndyNZ; 04-08-2019 at 3:31 PM.

  8. #28

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    coming along real nice man!

  9. #29

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    Looks awesome so far! Love the hardtail frame for sure! keep up posted.

    Jake

  10. #30
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    Thanks for the words of encouragement guys!!

    Slowly continuing onward.

    Spun up a headlight mount, still need a tab welded to the back that bolts to the springer bridge to stop it rotating, but it works well...only bugger is i discovered the unity headlight i'd bought had an issue with the decorative piece at the top of the bevel not being center which really looks bad, i may change it out for something else...





    I also machined up the riser part of my risers, these are a slow work in progress with a lot of work to come, you may get some idea of where im headed with these now though.



    As i mentioned in my last post too i was changing my rear rim and tyre out, got that all buttoned up and am much happier. Have moved on to getting the rear fender widened to suit now and am cutting some strip to do so today at work on the guillotine.





    We have a 10 day holiday here in NZ coming up so will be spending this at Steves place, hoping to have the roller locked down, tins finish welded and mounted, rear wheel spacing sorted, and the rear fender/sissy bar made.....wish me luck

  11. #31
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    Nice work so far mate, looking forward to seeing the end game. Good luck.
    Question, what breed is the repop springer you are using?

  12. #32
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    Pretty impressive build, so far. That jig is a work of art.

  13. #33

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    Very nice build!!! What is that front brake that you are using?

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedHerring View Post
    Very nice build!!! What is that front brake that you are using?
    looks like stock springer drum brake but that old stuff always throws me off.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stix View Post
    Question, what breed is the repop springer you are using?
    It’s one of the Euro re-pops, +2” over. Have just spent the day/night straightening it as there were multiple issues with both front and rear legs, will update soon on what went down.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuklhd View Post
    looks like stock springer drum brake but that old stuff always throws me off.
    Correct, just stock springer front brake all chromed, mounted on a star hub that I converted to sealed bearings as can be seen earlier.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyNZ View Post
    It’s one of the Euro re-pops, +2” over. Have just spent the day/night straightening it as there were multiple issues with both front and rear legs, will update soon on what went down.
    I'm interested in the problems Andy. 10 or 12 years ago I bought one from Kurt at 45parts depo(guessing its close to same thing) with no problems.

  18. #38
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    Took a ten day break here in NZ and managed to get a solid few days on the bike with the help of friends.

    First job was to take a look at the springer. In eyeing up everything when installed on the frame it was obvious that the wheel was cocked left and lent over so we knew something wasn't right. Upon investigating we found -

    1 - The front leg right side had been welded on crooked meaning the rocker was on an angle causing rocker bind
    2 - The front legs were miss-aligned front to back meaning the axle was not running square with the frame
    3 - The rear legs were miss-aligned front to back
    4 - The rear leg rocker holes were at different lengths from the lower tree by 1.5mm

    Front leg we made a tool to fit the rocker tab and simply clamped the leg down and tweaked back to place.



    Rear leg we clamped down, checked the miss-alignment with rods, and again tweaked back into place.






    We chose to leave the 4th point as it was minor and would have been more trouble than it worth for the minor difference. All back together it was running sweet but the changes meant some offset lacing is now needed to the front rim as everything has moved and its of centre by 2mm now.
    Last edited by AndyNZ; 04-28-2019 at 2:58 PM.

  19. #39
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    Next was sorting the rear wheel and spacing out.

    I had clearance issues with the brake plate and axle plate and really wanted to keep the mech brake tab, so first had I to linish down the back of this for clearance, this was simple and I didnt get a pic but only a few mm came off the casting high spots.

    Due to running the 67-72 juice drum and axle we were always going to have a few chain line issues to sort,i know its been done before plenty of times but always with a slightly different answer on how.

    The simplest fix for us was to spread the rear axle plates slightly (about 3.5mm) to get the chain line spot on. We clamped the crap out of the frame to the welding table, welded on a beam to push off of that sat hard against the right side axle plate so as not to move that, and then ran a piece of round bar that located against the front down tube (we clamped some angle to act as a fixed point) and rear motor mount. This bar allowed us to take measurements to both axle plates so we knew which side of the frame was moving and by how much.



    All in all by doing it this we were able to use all of the brake side 67-72 axle components, the only right side change will be shortening the spacer a few mm.

    End of day it was all buttoned up.




    Next i wanted to weld in the oil tank mounts. It had been about 5 years since touching a TIG so figured it a good place to start as it will all be hidden by the seat. Came out really good and i think this will be a good long term mounting solution that will prevent cracking.







    We also machined and welded in these small sleeves. These are 1-1/8" OD and 1" ID, they are simply to hide the step in the tubing due to the hardtail. Being we put in a trans bridge plate the step in the tube is now almost in-perceivable.






    And lastly for the day, Steve made me up a stem nut to the correct length needed. We tried a Paughco one but it was still too long.




    Last edited by AndyNZ; 04-28-2019 at 3:00 PM.

  20. #40
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    Had to dummy everything up and see where we are sitting. A lot of work to be done now but having the roller locked in is a major milestone for sure.






    Had to try on a couple of seats and the rear fender im planning to use for good measure.

    Genuine Bates solo and P-Pad




    And another that my friend had made a long time ago.


    Last edited by AndyNZ; 04-28-2019 at 3:01 PM.

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