1983 Dyna Low Rider

[butchcassidy121]

All,

I've been perusing the site for a month now and have learned quite a bit in a short amount of time.

I'm looking to build or buy a 60-70s style chopper with a Harley power plant. I've come across a lot on craigslist and Ebay but haven't found one I like. After looking on this site and reading info on line, I've decided to buy a good condition, running, early 80s shovelhead. I attached images of the one I'm planning on getting. Any comments, concerns, advice would be greatly appreciated

While I've been looking for a chopper, I've talked to a handful of custom shops, mechanics, and owners of the style I'm looking for. What ive decided on, is a Kraft Tech 2 out, 4 up frame and a Paughco Springer front end. I'm 6'1" and sat on a 2 out, 4 up and it fit great.

I'm leaning towards buying a frame instead of cutting up the original but I'm going to talk to my insurance company and the MN DMV before I buy a frame.

Thanks for looking. Cheers!

[ridgerunner1965]

well im not sure there ever was a dyna shovel. as far as I know all the dyna bikes were evos. and were 5 spds. the only shovel 5 spds were the fxr type bikes.

as far as cutting up a orig frame on a shovel.it really woudnt bother me to do that since they are common as dirt around here. now I prob would not cut up a 66 to 69 shovel but the later ones are pretty common.

but if you want a frame with the dimensions yu stated then a aftermarket would be the way to go.

[farmall]

Not a Dyna, which came later. Many sellers get that wrong. Dyna was a rubbermount Evo from the start.

Since you are won't be using most of the motorcycle you can recoup some loot selling leftovers.

If going aftermarket frame you could just pull the Shovel drivetrain and sell the rest as a titled roller. You don't need to turn in a frame title if you can prove you own the engine, which a copy of the title in your name does nicely. If MN wants bills of sale, make out one to yourself for you paperwork package. You won't require anything else off the bike. I do suggest tagging and riding it as is for a while so you know if there's anything needing attention or you'd like to change. Then your drivetrain will be sorted out and ready to install. Meantime you can build your chopper rolling chassis and swap in the drivetrain at leisure. It's all win.

If I did a Shovel from the ground up or one that needed a transmission I'd use an Evo Softail 5-speed and primary instead. Even if you don't plan on ever using an electric starter you won't be young forever and the Shovel starters use a severely fucking stupid drive housing and linkage arrangement. The other cure for that is a belt drive that takes a late Denso starter, and you don't need the starter to use one.

When you speak to your insurer I'd be very clear the bike will be done to professional quality. Some insurance companies treat special construction vehicles differently, but there are many companies. If you only need liability it's easy. If full coverage you may need it appraised by your local indy shop.

[butchcassidy121]

Thanks for the input, you all. As far as the Dyna confusion, that part in Sandlot comes to mind when they're picking on Small, "Come on Bennie, the kids a SQUARE!"

I'm pretty much set on buying the bike, just working out arrangements to pick it up now as it's 3.5 hours away. I like the idea of riding it "as is" for a while to see what gremlins pop up.

The bike seems clean from the pictures and the seller assures me it is, but what issues are common on this era? and what in particular should i look for? Also, i compared the engine vin and frame vin and they match. The vin also says its a Low Rider as stated in the ad. Not a Dyna, though! Lesson learned. Ha.

[Vinson]

The bike seems clean from the pictures and the seller assures me it is, but what issues are common on this era? and what in particular should i look for?.

Depends on the amount of people who have had their hands on it, but I would definitely take a long hard look at the electrical and charging system on something that old.

[ridgerunner1965]

it looks like a really nice bike from the pics.

first thing I would do is pull outer primary and make sure there are no surprises waiting to happen in there. make sure primary is isolated from the engine oil.make sure its vented properly. maybe pull down the clutch and check everything and a new quality clutch cable if the old one is suspect at all.

then ride it till old man winter sets in.

by that time you will know if it needs anything.

even if all went well id want to grease the wheel bearings,swingarm bearings oh hell who am I kidding id tear the whole thing down to bare frame and put it back with lots of loc tite,lock nuts,grade 8 fasteners etc. I fukkin hate walking but if I walk I want it to be my fault and not the previous owners crap cuz I didn't check everything.

[farmall]

Electrics fail first. When you swap it into its new home I'd replace the complete charging system rather than "riding until failure". I do that on my personal bikes. Time change items are what keep aircraft in the sky and out of your house.

I'd change all the fluids including fork oil. That let's ya see what comes out with the old goo. Inspect primary chain and guide shoe. Inspect sprockets and rear chain.

put it back with lots of loc tite,lock nuts,grade 8 fasteners etc.

Fine SAE threads means many aircraft fasteners fit. All metal locknuts preferred. Lock tabs are outstanding too. You'll see some in the inner primary cover but they work anywhere you can fit them. Inspect alternator/regulator plug for oil intrustion, burning etc. You can skip the connector which is an assembly convenience and hard wire those together then seal the hole if you like. When something dies cutting the wire is no big deal. Handlebar switches don't live forever. Throttle and clutch cables fray so inspect those. Clutch cables usually fail near the hand lever.
(I carry the old Barnett cable saver on trips.)

Inspect rubber hoses for deterioration. I only use Gates fuel injection hose or auto transmission hose for motorcycles. So-called "fuel line" doesn't resist ethanol. I make my own battery cables using light gauge welding cable from my local welding supply and lugs from them and online. Battery bolt hole size is nominally 1/4".

Common issues are due to many owners doing shitty work.

I'd bring a plug wrench and inspect the plugs. I bring a compression tester too and always insist the bike be cold when I arrive so I can check it cold and start it cold to make sure it doesn't smoke.