Lower fork bolt stripped, doomed?

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  • firstripholdmybeer
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2018
    • 338

    Lower fork bolt stripped, doomed?

    I'm switching to 6 over tubes on my XL 1200 Custom and replacing the seals as well. took out the axle and one of the two 6mm bolts is stripped to shit from a previous owner. based on the bolt's torque from the other tube, I'm assuming this things going to be a bitch to get out with an extractor. to clarify this is the 6mm bolt at the bottom end above where the axle slides through (holds the tube's assembly together).

    Wondering am I screwed, what do you all think, and any suggestions? would be a huge help, thanks everyone
  • Tattooo
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2012
    • 12407

    #2
    Originally posted by firstripholdmybeer
    I'm switching to 6 over tubes on my XL 1200 Custom and replacing the seals as well. took out the axle and one of the two 6mm bolts is stripped to shit from a previous owner. based on the bolt's torque from the other tube, I'm assuming this things going to be a bitch to get out with an extractor. to clarify this is the 6mm bolt at the bottom end above where the axle slides through (holds the tube's assembly together).

    Wondering am I screwed, what do you all think, and any suggestions? would be a huge help, thanks everyone
    I think you need to post some pics.... That would be a huge help for us.......

    Using an extractor to get a stripped bolt out makes no sense.......

    Comment

    • tzienlee
      • Apr 2024

      #3
      IF you mean the allen bolt that goes here (yellow arrow in the picture below) it probably isn't stripped, but turning the Damper unit inside the fork.
      you will need to maybe reassemble the forks with the spring and top nut, then use a pneumatic windy gun to shock the bolt out or insert a long screwdriver to hold the damper unit solid as you undo the allen bolt.
      as you haven't shown exactly which bolt you are having problems with but at a guess it sounded like this one,... a common problem when people use too much Loctite or have not serviced the forks in a coons age...
      If you mean that the hex socket has rounded and you simply cant undo it,... drill the head off, when the head is off the damper will pull out as if you undid the bolt,... when out of the forks its a simple job to unwind it from the damper using Vice grips or an engineers vice...
      Attached Files
      Last edited by Guest; 07-29-2018, 4:24 PM.

      Comment

      • farmall
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2013
        • 9983

        #4
        Tzienlee beat me to it, but since I'd typed the post here ya go:

        I buzz the spinners out with a fast impact gun. A broomstick shoved against the damper rod or a copy of the aftermarket tool or the aftermarket tool will hold the rod if needed. I don't extract socket head bolts as used in that assembly. Instead I drill the heads off. Much easier. Then you can grab the stub of the bolt with vise grips after you remove the damper rod in which it lives.

        Remove tube/slider assembly from triple clamps.
        Pad a bench vise or whatever you are holding the fork leg assembly with so as not to gouge anything. Alternate option to hold fork sliders is drill some scrap to match your fender bolt holes then bolt the fender mount to the scrap. Clamp scrap in vise and your assembly won't rotate. This works much better than padding or plastic vee blocks.
        After blowing any smegma out of the center of the socket head, use a sharp center punch to mark it dead center.
        You are drilling a hardened fastener so use "cobalt" drill bits with a bit of cheap oil (any kind, it's acting as coolant). I drill a small pilot hole, usually 1/8" (I buy bits by the pack online, pilot holes are love), then follow up until the last bit is the size of the outside diameter of the new bolts you wisely obtained in advance. The head will fall free if you are centered. Then tap the damper rod out using a punch or long ~1/4" bolt.

        Comment

        • firstripholdmybeer
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2018
          • 338

          #5
          Tzienlee, thats the bolt I was talking about thanks for the pic. I’ll post a picture of what I’ve got going on below. Like you and Farmall said, looking like drilling it centered and gradually will have to be the technique. Then punch it out. I’ll give it a shot in the next couple days.

          Let me make sure I understand first, is the head of the bolt the only thing securing the damper to the bottom of the fork? Is there actual threading in the lower slider fork or only in the damper?

          Thanks a bunch guys

          Click image for larger version

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          Comment

          • tzienlee
            • Apr 2024

            #6
            Originally posted by firstripholdmybeer
            Tzienlee, thats the bolt I was talking about thanks for the pic. I’ll post a picture of what I’ve got going on below. Like you and Farmall said, looking like drilling it centered and gradually will have to be the technique. Then punch it out. I’ll give it a shot in the next couple days.

            Let me make sure I understand first, is the head of the bolt the only thing securing the damper to the bottom of the fork? Is there actual threading in the lower slider fork or only in the damper?

            Thanks a bunch guys

            [ATTACH=CONFIG]86101[/ATTACH]
            Yep,... it only screws into the damper assembly,.... remove the head and it will all be able to be removed.
            by the way, …..Where Are You Based ??…. often there are members almost next door, who can and usually will help ??

            Comment

            • Tattooo
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2012
              • 12407

              #7
              Is that a torx head bolt?? Can you go a little larger and hammer it in??

              Comment

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