Need some advice getting off a stick compensator nut

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  • corrosiontrav13
    Member
    • Feb 2012
    • 33

    Need some advice getting off a stick compensator nut

    Got an ‘82 shovelhead the compensator nut is pretty thrashed, even before I tried to remove it. I got the JIM’s 4 speed tool I to lock it up but I have had no luck removing this thing. Anyone got some advice?Click image for larger version

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  • Dragstews
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2010
    • 13739

    #2
    Heat
    Take my 45 and outrun em all ..

    Comment

    • farmall
      Senior Member
      • Apr 2013
      • 9983

      #3
      Use a SIX point socket with the chamfer removed, so you can reach good nut surfaces with the socket flats.

      This works for any shallow nut:

      Internal flats on a standard socket don't go all the way to the end of the socket. That means they don't go all the way to the base of a nut or bolt. The internal chamfer exist to center the broach used to cut internal flats. It serves no other purpose and is not necessary or useful in placing a socket over a fastener head.


      A four foot pipe on the end of a good breaker bar helps a lot. More leverage means better control. If you have another person one can hold the socket on the nut while the other turns the breaker bar.

      Before I got a CO2 cylinder for heavy impact gun use I once trailered a Shovel to an 18-wheeler mechanic who had a serious compressor and gun.

      While you are there, inspect the alternator rotor for magnet shift. The glue fails and the magnets move "sideways". Next step is they come off and eat the stator. Also inspect the stator connection as they tend to get oil in them and the pins overheat and burn. I replace the alternator/stator/regulator when I get a keeper Shovel or older Evo.
      Last edited by farmall; 07-28-2018, 3:53 PM.

      Comment

      • corrosiontrav13
        Member
        • Feb 2012
        • 33

        #4
        Originally posted by farmall
        Use a SIX point socket with the chamfer removed, so you can reach good nut surfaces with the socket flats.

        This works for any shallow nut:

        Internal flats on a standard socket don't go all the way to the end of the socket. That means they don't go all the way to the base of a nut or bolt. The internal chamfer exist to center the broach used to cut internal flats. It serves no other purpose and is not necessary or useful in placing a socket over a fastener head.


        A four foot pipe on the end of a good breaker bar helps a lot. More leverage means better control. If you have another person one can hold the socket on the nut while the other turns the breaker bar.

        Before I got a CO2 cylinder for heavy impact gun use I once trailered a Shovel to an 18-wheeler mechanic who had a serious compressor and gun.

        While you are there, inspect the alternator rotor for magnet shift. The glue fails and the magnets move "sideways". Next step is they come off and eat the stator. Also inspect the stator connection as they tend to get oil in them and the pins overheat and burn. I replace the alternator/stator/regulator when I get a keeper Shovel or older Evo.


        Thank You! I will take my socket to work with me Monday and grind it down.

        Comment

        • TriNortchopz
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2017
          • 3255

          #5
          Originally posted by corrosiontrav13
          Thank You! I will take my socket to work with me Monday and grind it down.
          You could also lightly hand-file the flats on the nut - just enough to knock the raised parts off, to help your ground down socket fit better.
          If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...

          Comment

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