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your friend with the shovel that would cut out wasn't because it was 6v. it was the person working on it. it would be cutting out at 12v until the real problem was fixed on it.
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I definitely want the part numbers. I've been looking at Jim's stuff and I think I found it but I'd like to be sure. I'll also post pictures as soon as I can get the blocks off. For some reason (maybe wishful thinking) I feel like the bike ran pretty recently. I'm sure whoever built this thing had a bucket of parts somewhere and it really bums me out but oh well!First question first...
The 48 and 49 Pan cases was made from the Knuck era.... The Mo-Co rework their mold to build the Pan's ...
What they did was to have the right side case retaining the casting for the Knuck top end oil return ...
That casting was not drilled, just along for the ride. In 50 the mold seen more work and that un-used casting was gone...
Three years the case was made like that, until the hyd, unit was moved from the pushrod down to the lifter blocks...
When they did that the area that use to have the casting for the Knuck oil return came back, sorta.. It came back as a screen for filtering the oil going to the hyd. units in the blocks....
Now about your lifter blocks.... The bore for std size is .731" ... If yours are this size and have never been oversize and the bores are not ate up, sure just buy the std tappets...
The reason I posted the Jim's tappet is they are made with larger bearings and axle pins... A bit better design than the factory used..
If you intend on taking my advice, I will post part numbers for the special pushrods that uses the 48-52 tappet and Shovel top-end...
If not .../// https://youtu.be/xZbKHDPPrrc \\\... ..
Thank you!
ChristaComment
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[QUOTE=farmall;807502][B]
You don't need much space to work on an engine if you assemble it on an engine stand instead of a workbench, and stands are sweet because you can rotate the engine to any clock position (including upside down if you drop something in the bottom end!). My current big twin stand is cut from a frame I didn't want and hung off a Harbor Freight engine stand but you can just use the stand and some angle to support the engine. Got welder bros? Steel is cheap. The footprint is so small you could do the work at home. That not only gives more time to work but more time to think with that big visual aid sitting next to you. /QUOTE]
Everything you said makes sense. I know I need to take it one step at a time but I'm itching to do something! I hate that I'm having to wait for help and a place to work. I really can't work on it where I am, I don't really have a choice. What do you mean you used an old frame to lift it on? I was just at harbor freight looking at that hydraulic lift they have with the full supports below- meaning it's rolled in and raised as opposed to just a block or two beneath and pumped up. I'd much rather have an old sturdy on but they seem hard to find right now and I don't need to find new ways to spend money that don't actually include parts for my bike. My friend is helping me get the clutch together. I think I'm gonna go chain. Right now it seems cheaper for me to find those parts from people I know. If it kills me in cleanup it kills me! I'll probably live.
And I think I will go 12v on the generator. That one I don't need to fight.
Happy weekend!
ChristaComment
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those are nice but them flathead power lifters are sexyOn the lifters:
Your right hand case is 50, 51 or 52 year model..
Those years didn't have pressured oil going to the lifter blocks... Having the hyd. units down there didn't start till 1953..
48 to 52 had the hyd built into the pushrods, oil fed to them from the head, into the rocker arms in route to the pushrods...
Being your top-end is Shovelheads, you have no choice but to run solid lifters....
And being you need to buy lifters, you should buy a set of the 48 to 52's... Reason for, is they are user friendly when it's time to adjust em.
They will work in the lifter bocks that you have now..
Check the bores in the blocks for size, if they look bad you can get oversize tappers and hone all the bad out of the blocks in order to be sarting off with new specks...
Comment
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Sexy is nice, but once they are installed the sexy is all over with and the long life begins ..
Take my 45 and outrun em all ..Comment
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I used a frame I didn't want to make an engine "caddy" which will support engines for transport in my truck, support them on the ground, or support them on HF engine stands. I lift my engines (with or without caddy) using suitable piece of chain between the top engine mount bolts. Chain suits any lifting device. I like my patient lift for that but any comealong or engine hoist will do. I used the S&S in the pics since I needed the frame/caddy for it anyway.What do you mean you used an old frame
If building an engine I'd do the bottom end, place in the stand, then finish assembly. It's nice to sit in my office chair and work at desk height.
This also permits assembling the complete drivetrain (engine/primary/trans) as a mockup to make sure everything fits and rotating it 360 degrees if desired. I don't expect to use it for engine test runs but it would handle that easily. I made the engine caddy to be stable on the floor when not on the HF stand. When I get around to it I'll put casters on the outriggers for easy rolling off the stand. (Tall stands are tippy for transport.) It takes less time to do this stuff then not have it and manually wrestle engines around the shop.
To lift the motorcycle complete those Harbor Freight motorcycle jacks work well enough. I don't care for them because they are narrower than a J&S or Pitbull (I've two used Pitull stands, I wouldn't buy one new since there are many ways to lift bikes from floor jacks and automotive pantograph (AKA "scissors") to simple wooden lever style lifts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U10ZQbfK6bI
You don't require a motorcycle jack to take that bike apart.
Simple bench engine stand example which would be easy to weld to an HF engine stand head. Show to your welderbro as these can be done from all sorts of scrap and don't need to look pretty to work well. http://www.deathwheelers.com/2012/11...ine-stand.htmlComment
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Here is Colony's PN 7506-4 for using 1948-1952 tappets with 1966-up Shovelhead Top End.
.../// https://www.amazon.com/Colony-Stock-.../dp/B07HF71152 \\\...
Get your Credit Card out .... Ho, Ho, Ho ....
( https://youtu.be/L58md9fOHl0 )
The last time I said dat , I got arrested for sexual harassment ...!!!
Lady that filed charges said I called her a Ho three times ... !!! ..
..
.../// https://youtu.be/MHioIlbnS_A \\\...Last edited by Dragstews; 12-22-2018, 11:21 AM.Take my 45 and outrun em all ..Comment
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Those deathwheeler stands are awesome. By the time I get someone to help me with that... I don't see it happening soon. I'm looking on Craigslist for a good old lift, I don't care for the HF ones... I'm also looking for those hospital lift thing, I liked how you set that up. Right now it's whatever I can piece together first!I used a frame I didn't want to make an engine "caddy" which will support engines for transport in my truck, support them on the ground, or support them on HF engine stands. I lift my engines (with or without caddy) using suitable piece of chain between the top engine mount bolts. Chain suits any lifting device. I like my patient lift for that but any comealong or engine hoist will do. I used the S&S in the pics since I needed the frame/caddy for it anyway.
If building an engine I'd do the bottom end, place in the stand, then finish assembly. It's nice to sit in my office chair and work at desk height.
This also permits assembling the complete drivetrain (engine/primary/trans) as a mockup to make sure everything fits and rotating it 360 degrees if desired. I don't expect to use it for engine test runs but it would handle that easily. I made the engine caddy to be stable on the floor when not on the HF stand. When I get around to it I'll put casters on the outriggers for easy rolling off the stand. (Tall stands are tippy for transport.) It takes less time to do this stuff then not have it and manually wrestle engines around the shop.
To lift the motorcycle complete those Harbor Freight motorcycle jacks work well enough. I don't care for them because they are narrower than a J&S or Pitbull (I've two used Pitull stands, I wouldn't buy one new since there are many ways to lift bikes from floor jacks and automotive pantograph (AKA "scissors") to simple wooden lever style lifts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U10ZQbfK6bI
You don't require a motorcycle jack to take that bike apart.
Simple bench engine stand example which would be easy to weld to an HF engine stand head. Show to your welderbro as these can be done from all sorts of scrap and don't need to look pretty to work well. http://www.deathwheelers.com/2012/11...ine-stand.html
Thanks for all your help : )
ChristaComment
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Ordered! Thank you! Sometimes you just need to be told what to do! Haha.Here is Colony's PN 7506-4 for using 1948-1952 tappets with 1966-up Shovelhead Top End.
.../// https://www.amazon.com/Colony-Stock-.../dp/B07HF71152 \\\...
Get your Credit Card out .... Ho, Ho, Ho ....
( https://youtu.be/L58md9fOHl0 )
The last time I said dat , I got arrested for sexual harassment ...!!!
Lady that filed charges said I called her a Ho three times ... !!! .. ..
.../// https://youtu.be/MHioIlbnS_A \\\...
ChristaComment
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Many shops use the HF lifts.Comment
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Yep that's why I asked the way I did.... I thought she might know someone with one that had problems with it.....Many shops use the HF lifts.Comment
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