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After being a Cafe Racer and now a Scrambler thinking of going the Brat Bobber route with the ole girl. Risers with drag bars, short rear shocks, different (maybe aluminum) fenders, and doing a 3/4 seat which will be the bitch of this job because of the rear subframe configuration. Still out on a headlight setup. Wanting some modern mixed with a 70s vibe. Ive got a set of British Custom stainless high pipes i may wrap black with some shorty mufflers. As she sits now.
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The black paint doesn't show of the machine very well. As for the subframe it won't be a problem if you modify it or get a second subframe and mod that.
Drag bar ergonomics suck though a bit less with risers. If it's a bar bike, no problem. -
I HATE chrome.Comment
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Well at 58 years old and working on and building bikes for a living for 40 of those years ive kinda figured out what i like and dont like. Some run no front brakes and as an old road racer i think thats stupid but hey aint my bike. The stainless high pipes i may use are HOT. And as an old racer/engine builder ive used pipe wrap for years, not for looks but for performance and keeping parts cool. Just thought id throw out my thoughts on this build. Thanks for yalls input.Comment
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Any pics of your Nighthawk Rat Cafe Fighter build to show?Comment
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Everyones got an opinion,, but I try to offer mine based on experience or the gurus who despite being an annoying sh*t, gave advice and their knowledge freely, But when you ask for opinions on a free forum the feedback you get is generally worth half of what you paid.
The reasons for my comments about pipe wrap (I used to say this so often on the Buell forums it got to be routine, but many Buell riders are young squids).. So, when pipe wrap came out it was hailed as a miracle product and was featured in a LOT of hot rodding magazines, and I saw some in race pits at the track. But it came out fairly quickly HOW damaging it is to exhausts, shortly thereafter car magazines in the 1990s featured a lot of warning about it.
I am not sure WHEN the motorcycle people discovered pipe wrap but it seemed to me MUCH later, and clearly MOST never got the memo. Some get all uppity about it when its pointed out as well,
But heres the short version, Ever notice a cheap BBQ gas grill goes to garbage in a season??? Its because they use thin cheap metal for the burners. If you used Inconel, 17-4, or some of the Ti products that are meant for extreme heat cycles and near melting sustained operation (Glowing orange) then it wouldnt be an issue, but even metals for such apps have a duty cycle lifespan and are time change in Aerospace apps.
But a COATED pipe provides a barrier coating between the mild steel tubing and these exhaust gases, A ceramic coating on both ID & OD can be nearly ambient to the touch even during extended freeway hi speed thrashes. Its proven in countless studies and SAE papers if you care to look,
Now a wrap contains and creates a barrier to outside air and importantly COOLING so the pipe or metals sit there and percolate in a even more extreme than just leaving it plain BBQ black, Studies on car pipes wrapped show that radius's wore at a rate 3:1 over straight sections and even higher on extreme radius apps, so the first place that tuner car with those roller skate wheels sticking out the side and the obnoxious fart pipe is going to see failure on his VTEC yoh! new headers will be in the radius curves and some of those systems are NOT cheap!
Chrome plating is not just ornamental on a exhaust,,, its multiple coatings if done right, (Copper-nickel-chrome) and a chrome pipe will outlast a plain metal pipe by a factor of 15:1,, However a Ceramic thermal barrier coating ID & OD is off the charts for longevity as well as significant performance. (Anything to transfer heat and accelerate flow is a good thing, and moving heat AWAY from the engine and OUT the pipe is ideal).
I have some Buells (Tuber and XB models) and its well known the rear cylinders cook, so a thermal barrier coating IN the heads exhaust ports, as well as the pipes moves that heat out and away, there is a product called "Buell Comfort kit" and its a sheet of insulation for the underseat (Nut cookers) and a small thermostatically controlled fan that evacuates the hot and dead air space out of that cavity, Got one I am installing on 98 S1. But by far, the coating ID & OD works well,,
Pipe wraps look like ass in my book,, However, I have salvaged aircraft heat shields, these are asbestos lined and stainless sheet on each side, if they have cracks they are scrap, so I recycle them to other applications, The key is NOT to jam them against a pipe or you have the same issue, must be a gap. I have cut and shaped some and installed BEHIND chrome heat shields for high pipers
I have some vintage British and a number of them run high pipes,
Dont take my word for it though..................
See: https://www.centuryperformance.com/e...o-not-use.html
" Why Header Wraps Destroy Your Headers ... and
Why Thermal Ceramic Coatings are Recommended
We are regularly asked, or have commented on the use of header wraps (header tape, thermal tape, heat tape) on exhaust header systems. This issue is a real pet peeve of mine. Good or bad about a product I will give my opinion based upon direct use and fact, and this stuff screams "Do Not Use on Exhaust Headers!"
Tons of research supports Ceramic thermal barrier coatings, I love the stuff, acft, and performance motorsports as well as building vintage stuff and I have a lot of race exhausts, NOBODY will rechrome them, so the coatings are a total WIN-WIN,, plus its available in many colors and finishes.
See: https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...42207X01004523
" Abstract
An experimental study of the effects of thin thermal barrier coatings on the performance of a diesel engine was conducted. Results obtained from the engine with thermally insulated pistons were compared with the baseline engine data. Engine trials demonstrated good properties of both coating systems. Temperature and stress distributions within the pistons were evaluated analytically by means of the Cosmos/Works FEM code. Results of a road test on a gasoline-engine-driven car are also reported. "
A lot of shops can do the coatings, or you can order the materials and DIY if you can manage the logistics...
See: http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/
This shop is local to me and they are the Go-to folks for regional and national racers and perf builders
they have a long list of records in Land Speed record books as well,, tested on the salt.
See: http://finishlinecoatings.com/
" This Bonneville Salt Flats and California dry lakes race car was a 36 year building project. Russ Meeks, the builder-owner, started the car in 1967 when he moved back to Oregon from California. We race in the XO/Modified Roadster class. The X means "vintage" and the O indicates "over head valve inline" 6 or 8 cylinder engines - up to year 1959.
The car body is polished aluminum all hand built by Russ and is an exact reproduction 1923 "T" Roadster. The tube chassis is chrome moly that exceeds all racing sanction body safety specs. The engine is a 322 cubic inch 1952 GMC inline "6", transmission is a 4-speed B & J and the rear end is a 9" Ford with a "Jones" quick change.
All of Finishline's coatings have been used and tested on this car....Header coatings, internal engine coatings, bearing and brake coatings- all have enabled this car to be the current Bonneville and Muroc Dry Lake record holder.It is continually under going changes in order to test and improve our products for the consumer.Comment
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Thanks Doug, i see your THE guy on this forum. I too have had pipes coated included on my Buell Lighting (now gone) AND i too have seen the squirrels trends in the motorcycle world. Problem is not everyone has the $$$ for some of the better things and just have to make do with whats at hand. Ive seen good and bad wraps along with alot of other things as im sure you have. Keep up the good work my man.Comment
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