Shovelhead help - lifter stuck

[67ray]

My chop was running very bad and kept stalling out. After getting her home, checked all the usual and found a stuck lifter. Think they are solid lifters, I pulled out the cylinder part but the tappet that follows the cam would not move as I turned over the crank.

Is this common? Should I remove the lifter block on that cylinder? What do I do next.

[Tattooo]

My chop was running very bad and kept stalling out. After getting her home, checked all the usual and found a stuck lifter. Think they are solid lifters, I pulled out the cylinder part but the tappet that follows the cam would not move as I turned over the crank.

Is this common? Should I remove the lifter block on that cylinder? What do I do next.

No that's not not normal.... Did you still have oil pressure??? Yes remove the block.... Did it start doing that all of a sudden??? Tell us more info and your going to need a Manual if you don't have one already....

[farmall]

When I have to pull one lifter block I pull the other and inspect everything I can see using a BRIGHT light. Inspect all the camshaft lobes and lifter block bores. Roll the pushrods on a flat, smooth surface like a sheet of glass to check for bends. Inspect both ends of each pushrod.

Post clear pics if in doubt.

Maximum info helps us help you! In future always post the year of your engine. No one should have to check a profile.

With the lifters and pushrods removed this is the perfect time for a leakdown test. While a stuck tappet obviously causes incorrect compression test readings on the affected cylinder, with both removed the valves should be fully seated. Leakdown testers are simple and most aren't expensive. You want one. Inspect spark plugs while you're at it and if not sure post pics.

When a lifter sticks the corresponding camshaft lobe is often damaged. With both blocks removed it's easy to pull the cam cover to inspect the contents of the timing chest.

I don't have any pics of camshaft wear or worn cams to photograph but maybe others have examples where the hardface on the lobes is wearing through but they are not obviously trashed to the inexperienced observer. A strip down the center of worn rollers will be noticeably lighter in color than the sides.

I'd expect to find damage to the stuck lifter block bore and of course a damaged lifter body in that hole. I'd expect to find that cam lobe damaged but there's nothing wrong with being lucky. Lobe damage or excess wear means a new cam (opportunity for upgrade) and fresh rollers. (I just replace the whole lifter assembly x 4 rather than swapping rollers.)

Fortunately these engines are (mostly) easy to work on. Armed with leakdown test results and a list of worn parts you can make informed choices.

[BuddhahoodVato]

That is not good at all, no way a lifter will not move, pushrod must surely be bent. Ascertain if they are solids or not. Pull all of them, drop some automatic transmission fluid in your oil bag, a little.

[67ray]

The bike was running rougher and rougher one day and kept stalling out, but I could start it again and it struggled to run. Could not get it home got stranded about 5 miles out. Motor is an S&S not sure of year. Of course I started with ignition spark was solid at the plug, plugs clean, replaced condenser because I had one. Fuel flow is fine so I pulled the pushrod covers/seals and when cranking saw three working pushrods, and one that was loose and not moving at all. Pulled pushrod and it is not bent but that lifter is not moving when I crank the engine.

I do have a '78 FL manual I can reference. I soaked that lifter/bore with PB Blaster overnight to see if it will help but not expecting much from that.

Pics it is the rear cylinder:

[farmall]

Soaking can make it easier to take apart, but stuck tappets mean the stuck surfaces ain't smooth.

Remove that block even if the Blaster frees the tappet, because the wear won't go away and the wear particles are metal.
You can soak it better off the motorcycle anyway. One pushrod and four screws puts it in your hand and you'll know much more than you do now.

[67ray]

Alright going to do that now - will post some pics later

Thanks all

[Tattooo]

I'm guessing you have a cam lobe worn out..... We shall see....

[Dragstews]

If the need is there to go oversize, Tappets are available. .005", .010", .015", .020"
And .025"

[67ray]

Pretty obvious

Now what do I do? Lifters look OK to me, except for the roller, but both freely in the good bore. In the "bad" bore it moves through the range freely but sticks a little going in as if there is a burr.

Sorry for links if someone can post for me that would be good

http://imgur.com/a/w9491ax

http://imgur.com/a/9N57cbL

[Tattooo]

Now what do I do? Lifters look OK to me, except for the roller, but both freely in the good bore. In the "bad" bore it moves through the range freely but sticks a little going in as if there is a burr.

Sorry for links if someone can post for me that would be good

http://imgur.com/a/w9491ax

http://imgur.com/a/9N57cbL

The lifters look ok to you???? No it's fucked...... The wheel on the lifter gone???? Can you see it and all the pieces down in the cam chest??? How long did you run it like that??? I see a total rebuild in your future.........

[67ray]

I said except for the roller. Cam is fine, lobes are good, no metal in oil. Roller must be in bottom of case. Bores in lifter block look good. Can I get to the inside of the cases by taking off the cone?

[Tattooo]

Can I get to the inside of the cases by taking off the cone?

You can get in the cam chest by taking the cam cover off..... Not inside the cases... Are the needles still in the wheel??

[farmall]

Pull other pushrods and tappet block before pulling the cover so the camshaft can move freely.

Remember ya gotta find every piece of the dropped roller and the pin which used to hold it in the lifter. I'd lay the bits on a white paper towel on a tray. Catch whatever drools out of the timing chest when you pull the cover. One way to find steel particles is a good magnet.

It would be pleasantly miraculous if nothing else is damaged, but anything is possible.

Light the objects in your future photos brightly. I have nice monitors but it's still difficult for me to see the lifter bodies in the tappet block. Also clean the oil off any surfaces you photograph.

[Dragstews]

First place all that busted metal will head for is the oil pump....