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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    4

    Default Rear wheel run out?

    So I'm having some problems with the rear wheel after fitting it up at the end of a long (very fucking long) rebuild.
    81' wide glide with the previous owner fitting a soft tail 16" rear wheel to it.

    My problem is that when i spin the wheel there is some visual run out of the tire (haven't put a gauge to it just with my eye), and i can hear the brake rotor rubbing the pads at certain spots.


    The tire is a new Avon safety mileage fitted by a professional wheel builder who also spoked a cb450 drum to a 21" rim and fitted an Avon speedmaster on it for me. He then balanced them, and when i came back to him about the wobble he said to just run it and it should wear in?

    The rear wheel's brake rotor is also new and i noticed that the hub and disc mating surface is a little off true, which i can lessen by fitting the rotor shim behind it and torque it done little by little. Brake Pads are also new which has me thinking maybe they just need to wear in a bit and then it won't rub all the time (much like seating in drum brakes). When i pulled the original disc off it had warped so much that you could eat your cereal out of it.

    Rear wheel bearing are also new but this is what I am leaning towards pulling out again and changing to another new set to potentially fix this problem. My thought being that if the tire and disc are moving, then its not just the hub/disc mating surface causing the rotor to rub but rather the whole wheel

    Any help would be appreciated, even just being told to jump on the thing and ride it and don't worry about it
    Cheers

  2. #2
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    I am a bit confused with your post, but you should shoot for 0.020" runout, both radially and laterally - up to a max of 0.030".
    You first mention a 16" softail rear tire, then a 21" with a 450 drum - so the front drum brake wheel is a 21"? How much runout on that? (must be enough to take it back to the builder). is it side-to-side (lateral) or up-and-down (radial)?
    Seems like the hub is a problem, causing the run-out of the disc - what about the sprocket side? You shouldn't have to wait for the pads to 'wear in', as it sounds like the disc is not running straight. Wild that the last disc was warped so bad.
    Are the bearings loose in the hub? Is the axle tight in the bearing? Is the bearing sloppy (reason to change)? Is it the right bearing for the wheel? What about the bearing spacer inside the hub between the bearings - is there one in there, and if so, is it the right length? There were 3 different lengths of rear wheel bearing spacers ('92 softail for reference): 4.420", 4.434", and 4.448", flanged and unflanged.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....0AND%20SPOCKET

    Can you somehow measure the runout of the hub flange faces, the disc and the rim? How about a couple of pictures too.
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 06-11-2018 at 6:31 AM. Reason: added brg spacer details

  3. #3

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    Righto couple of pictures to give you an idea and hopefully clear up some confusion. 21" with the cb drum up front, Softail (unsure of year) 16" on the rear.

    Had a quick look today, Bearings don't seem loose, and the bearing spacer is in there with no movement (you did make me shit the bed thinking i had left the spacer out and thus collapsed the bearings). Checked the run out both radial and lateral today by eye and yes there is both present, originally just thought there was lateral movement.
    Ordered a dial indicator so won't have that until the end of the week to check the actual measurements.

    Since there is so much movement going on all around the hub/wheel etc I'm thinking it would be more a bearing problem rather than just the disc mating surface? possible cock up on my part installing the bearings for what ever reason?

    The two pictures of the left and right side of the hub show the spacer setup, but after some recent reading should there also be a washer and stepped washer present on both sides ? only have the book for harley's up to 1984 so it doesn't have info on the aluminium mags that were on the softails in the 90's, could this cause a 'bad squish' of the bearings on torque up and cause the wheel run out?

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    Check the link I just added to my reply above to Ronnie's HD and the image for the rear wheel, which includes part numbers. Is the brake caliper mounting bracket parallel to the disc? What about the rear wheel bent from an accident maybe? With the rear wheel off the ground, can you grab it and feel any movement?

  5. #5
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    If the wheel is bent, it can be straightened; found this site from a HDforums post:

    Motorcycle Wheel Repair
    Aluminum/Magnesium/Spun Alum.
    by
    Frame Straight
    $130.00 to $160.00
    http://www.framestraight.com/

    The poster said, "He works magic on wheels. The website is a bit hard to drill into but an absolute must see. He is the guy that repairs all the frames and wheels of the GP bikes you see doing cartwheels off the track. Amazing work! His name is John and he's just south of Knoxville, TN right at the start of The Dragon." https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...mag-wheel.html

  6. #6

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    Default

    So cross referencing with the Ronnie's chart - the spacer without flanges (#33) doesn't need any extra spacers or washers, so I'm all good with that: ie- matches my setup.
    I'll jack the bike up today and feel for any movement side to side, up and down, etc. If there is movement, that will mean the bearings are toast right?
    Cheers for the link to the wheel straightening site, but being in AUS probably would be cheaper to just buy a new wheel, with shipping etc factored in.

  7. #7

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    Am also running sealed bearings in the rear wheel instead of tapered. not sure if that would affect it?

  8. #8
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    As I asked earlier - if they are the right bearings for the wheel. Harley part #9052 are a tapered roller bearing set, so you would be best to get the right ones, and then ensure the spacer you have is the right one for the bearing set and your wheel.
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....0AND%20SPOCKET

    Harley Davidson
    #9052 Wheel Bearing
    Wheel bearing for Harley Davidson Motorcycle OEM # 9052 new old stock
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-beari...-/192248993129



    Overview of Drag Specialties Wheel Bearing and Seal Kit non-ABS - A251002
    Contain all necessary bearings and seals required for each individual wheel application
    Replacement OE #9052
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tapered Roller Bearing Specifications
    (2) LM11910 Cups (1.781 in. O.D.)
    (2) LM11949 Cones (.75 in. I.D.)
    Width of Cone/Cup Assembly: .653 in.
    (2) D5118 Seal (1.781 in. OD x 1.12 in. ID x .40 in. T)

    NOTE: Follow OEM-prescribed procedures for installing and checking wheel bearing end play

    FITMENT (includes 1988-1999 ST):
    1990 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail - FLST
    1999 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1998 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1997 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1996 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1995 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1994 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1993 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1992 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1991 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1990 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1989 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1988 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic - FLSTC
    1993 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Nostalgia - FLSTN
    1996 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Special - FLSTN
    1995 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Special - FLSTN
    1994 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Special - FLSTN
    1999 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Springer - FLSTS
    1998 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Springer - FLSTS
    1997 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Springer - FLSTS

    https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-spec...prd/122111.sku


    Might be able to get them here in your region:
    Australian Bearings; http://www.australianbearings.com.au/index.php/timken

    Are you familiar with 'The Chopper Shed', just south of Adelaide:
    Building choppers and bobbers the old school way... machining, welding and fabricating parts, customising and chopping any make of bike to your specifications...
    http://www.thechoppershed.com/
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 06-11-2018 at 11:13 PM. Reason: added kit info and link to TCS site

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