low speed wobble

[bruizer]

any simplified way to to drive line alignment on rubber mount 85 flh replaced front mount installed primo rivera stiffey in rear swing arm half assed followed factory service manual bike handles ok at speed but have low speed wobble if I let go of yhe bars at 30 mph don't recall issue previously tanks fur any info.

[Tattooo]

installed primo rivera stiffey in rear swing arm half assed followed factory service manual

^^^^^^ Explain the above?????^^^^ What does half ass mean?????

[laeljon]

My low speed wobble was caused by Allen bolts backing out on rear hub....red loctite took care of that.

[TriNortchopz]

I see this kit:
Rivera Primo The Stiffey Swingarm Stabilizer Bushings 1195-0001


and this one review:
"Installed easy did tighten up bike. But vibration was so bad after 100 miles I took out!!"

https://www.amazon.com/Rivera-Primo-Swingarm-Stabilizer-1195-0001/dp/B00383HHR0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Install info here from bikernet:

Stiffey Installation from Rivera-Primo
The First Quick-Install Touring Stabilizer
"Just back from my first ride. I noticed a more solid characteristic to the ride, less sway, and tighter handling, but I did notice increased vibration. I'll report in on further developments, as I cover more miles. I only noticed the increased vibration upon initial acceleration. I need to try some distance miles, like ride to Arizona and never come back"...--Bandit

https://www.bikernet.com/pages/Stiffey_Installation_from_RiveraPrimo.aspx

and a good discussion on this 2010 thread here:
Rivera Primo Stiffey Swingarm Stabilizer??
..."I elected to put in the Stiffey bushings. The left side went in quite well using the thicker of the spacers on top of the Stiffey. You have to make sure you clock the bushing and use only finger force to put it in. If it's hard to put in, you don't have it clocked right. They installed really easily with just taking off the rider floorboards, and removing the pillow block. Do only one side at a time. THEY say that if you take both side apart at the same time the swingarm will become misaligned. For the grins and giggles I also checked my rear wheel alignment after the install. There was no change. Literally you can use a rachet, socket and 1/2 hour and you are done. The right side was a different story as the retainer/pillow block was right behind the exhaust pipe. I had to loosen the pipe to take the block out and install the Stiffey.

I fired up the bike. OMG did that thing vibrate! I mean it vibrated! Idle to two grand it's almost like a paint shaker. This was one of the complaints I had read about but elected to try them anyway. As soon as I got up to speed the vibration was almost unnoticeable. Before anyone mentions this, at the same time I switched out the worn out front motor mount.
BUT, what I did notice was that the whole rear end had stiffened up..."

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/538130-rivera-primo-stiffey-swingarm-stabilizer.html

and interesting comments here:
"True tracks work well and they work to make new bushings last longer.
But they won't do much with worn bushings and swingarm clevblocks, and a 98 would likely have worn or leaking cleveblocks.

The best is boring out the transmission case and updating the pivot to the current 3/4 shaft and sperical swingarm bearings and loosing the swingarm plastic/rubber altogether, new bushings side and front, realigning the driveline, and a true track type setup for that rear link making it a 3 point system like Eric Buell designed the frame to use, but harley omitted.

I think someone makes a 5/8 spherical bearing swingarm setup since boring the trans case is a job.
Low air in suspension and lowering kits don;t help."

http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/shop-talk/85308-bagger-wobble.html

[farmall]

Rubber mounts trade reduced vibration for reduced control of the drivetrain mass and reduced control of the swingarm and rear tire. A rigid frame/engine connection will always handle better because it will always be stiffer all things being equal. What's left is finding a balance.

Follow manual correctly. Make sure front end is serviced and the triple clamps are correctly torqued per manual. "Fallaway" is a term you'll get familair with. Tire pressure must be right too. Everything works together.

The bike is older than dirt so I'd do what I did on my older-than-dirt (1988 is ancient history) FXR (same mounts and swingarm) and replace all the the wear parts as TNC mentions above. That includes the stabilizing links if worn (they are not aircraft rod ends but basically lawnmower parts).

Harley changed a lot of parts over the years because their early baggers didn't handle very well. vtwinforum and harleytechtalk forums have the best consolidated bagger suspension upgrade info I've seen. I studied them heavily when doing my FXR since so many parts match.

Search "Harley bagger wobble" for much info on this common problem.

[bruizer]

low speed wobble

tanks for the info guess I will be ridin my rigid pan while I sort it ole lady likes bagger cuz we are also older than dirt.tanks again

[bruizer]

half assed followed Harley shop manual as far as engine alignment didn't use 2 6ft straightedges just did swingarm align and made sure rear belt stayed centered rotating rear wheel in the forward and rearward directions after adjusting front and upper stabilizers

[TriNortchopz]

half assed followed Harley shop manual as far as engine alignment didn't use 2 6ft straightedges just did swingarm align and made sure rear belt stayed centered rotating rear wheel in the forward and rearward directions after adjusting front and upper stabilizers

Did that help reduce the wobble?

Here is a thread, Touring Frame Alignment, where the OP asked for ideas for a long straightedge:

..."I want to perform an alignment, but am not too crazy about spending $350 plus for the tools. The next best option is to use a straight edge and align the rear wheel to the front wheel. Any suggestions for a straight edge that is five feet long?"

ga_guy replied "I used strings to check alignment and the only adjustment I needed to do was rear wheel axle to swing arm axle alignment, which is easy to do.
Swing arm is attached to transmission and alignment is probably needed every time transmission is removed.
Pensil behind front wheel has to be as long as rear tire wide or slightly longer (1/8")"

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame-suspension-front-end-brakes/522789-touring-frame-alignment.html

(Can't get fotofuckit pictures from that thread) ga_guy included this link; Chassis Alignment Basics

http://www.motorcycle.com/how-to/chassis-alignment-basics-3444.html

[Tattooo]

I've always used two 8ft light bulbs... It's easier than a damn string......It works great.....

[ChopperDani]

or you can use your moms underwear as long ass string.....then again it might be to big

[DustyDave]

I thought everybody went to laser levels when the price dropped under $40. I just shoot each side of the rim and mark the floor under the neck then shoot each side of the neck, mark and measure. If it measures the same on both sides you are ready to ride.
Dusty

[Tattooo]

I thought everybody went to laser levels when the price dropped under $40. I just shoot each side of the rim and mark the floor under the neck then shoot each side of the neck, mark and measure. If it measures the same on both sides you are ready to ride.
Dusty

LOL Hell that's to easy..... That's for people without a flip phone....

[DustyDave]

LOL Hell that's to easy..... That's for people without a flip phone....

When I bought the Laser Level was almost a year before I upgraded to my first flip phone. The lasers are so cheap now I'm almost embarrassed to admit that I paid dam near $40 for mine.
Dusty

[Tattooo]

When I bought the Laser Level was almost a year before I upgraded to my first flip phone. The lasers are so cheap now I'm almost embarrassed to admit that I paid dam near $40 for mine.
Dusty

You know after thinking about it, Hell I own a laser that you align your chain with.... LOL I've never used it....