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Thread: Roadstar Bobber

  1. #41
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    Worked on the Electronics tray last night.
    This tray will contain the fusebox, CDI ignition unit and tail light wire connections.
    That bent edge is to protect the wiring harness from getting cut.
    The inside of the box will get covered with felt after powder coating.
    The oil tank will hang from this electronics tray. The oil tank will bolt on.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Below photo from outside .
    Click image for larger version. 

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    A five inch diameter oil tank will leave enough room to get the battery out without removing the oil tank.
    For a larger image just click on the photo.
    Last edited by Luky; 10-29-2018 at 10:38 AM.

  2. #42
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    The inside of the box will get covered with felt after powder coating.
    That's one way to add some vibration dampening. If using lead/acid batteries you could soak the felt in STRONG baking soda solution and let dry first. The old trick of baking soda impregnated leather battery box (and leather protective strip inside battery box covers) works well at reducing/preventing corrosion.

    I'd consider making the felt insert removable and letting the battery hold it in place. There's nowhere for it to escape. You could cut the insert from one large piece of felt by making a cardboard "box" pattern first, checking and trimming, then copying that. You REALLY won't want to remove one glued in with spray fabric adhesive AKA sprayable gorilla snot when repaint time comes around. If you want peelable adhesive, clear RTV would hold decently and can be peeled out later.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    That's one way to add some vibration dampening. If using lead/acid batteries you could soak the felt in STRONG baking soda solution and let dry first. The old trick of baking soda impregnated leather battery box (and leather protective strip inside battery box covers) works well at reducing/preventing corrosion.

    I'd consider making the felt insert removable and letting the battery hold it in place. There's nowhere for it to escape. You could cut the insert from one large piece of felt by making a cardboard "box" pattern first, checking and trimming, then copying that. You REALLY won't want to remove one glued in with spray fabric adhesive AKA sprayable gorilla snot when repaint time comes around. If you want peelable adhesive, clear RTV would hold decently and can be peeled out later.
    The electronics tray will not hold a battery.
    Sorry for the confusion.
    You can get a battery box pad that goes under the battery for $5.99 at JP Cycles.
    The battery pad contains anti corrosive .

  4. #44
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    Today , Oct. 20th 2018 I fabricated a guard around the front sprocket just in case a chain would break it would protect my oil line fittings.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The pencils are where the bolts will go to hold it on.

    Click on the photo for a larger image.
    Last edited by Luky; 10-20-2018 at 5:05 PM. Reason: 2nd photo

  5. #45
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    Christmas came early!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Beautiful workmanship! They come with the front axle and spacers!
    Last edited by Luky; 11-02-2018 at 7:24 PM.

  6. #46
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    I like the guard and it's a smart idea. It'll also reduce chain flung goo.

    Who made the springer?

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luky View Post
    Today , Oct. 20th 2018 I fabricated a guard around the front sprocket just in case a chain would break it would protect my oil line fittings.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The pencils are where the bolts will go to hold it on.

    Click on the photo for a larger image.
    That guard, like this build, is neat!

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    I like the guard and it's a smart idea. It'll also reduce chain flung goo.

    Who made the springer?
    The springer front forks were made by DNA. They are the 4th set I have purchased.
    These are the shortest ones I have purchased. Rake is 34.
    EDIT: Sorry the other sets of forks were for different builds.
    Last edited by Luky; 11-05-2018 at 1:54 PM.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    I like the guard and it's a smart idea. It'll also reduce chain flung goo.

    Who made the springer?
    Modern chain lube does not fly off.

  10. #50
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    Ready to install oil tank today Nov. 8th 2018.
    I got a pill style oil tank 5" x 11" steel.
    Anything Goes custom cycles designed the openings to fit my
    project and the oil line requirements for this Yamaha engine.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The oil lines will be 1/2" hose barb and the threaded bungs are 1/4"NPT

    Installed
    I will be able to drain the oil tank or
    remove the battery without moving the oil tank.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Rear fender installation is next.
    Last edited by Luky; 11-09-2018 at 8:45 AM. Reason: photo

  11. #51
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    Well, Thank God the Porch Pirates didn't steal that! It's nice... How much rear fender clearance are you going to run on that tire?

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoghead View Post
    Well, Thank God the Porch Pirates didn't steal that! It's nice... How much rear fender clearance are you going to run on that tire?
    Fender comes Monday. A rounded 9 inch fender. Made in Ohio at LED SLED Customs.
    I was able to get a Dyna 3000 ignition on Ebay and that arrived today. More puzzle pieces.
    I think I will have a garden hose clearance?
    Last edited by Luky; 01-20-2019 at 1:57 PM.

  13. #53
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    Coming together nicely!..Can't wait to see the forks on it and the gas tank choice.Are you going with a front fender?

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmanator View Post
    Coming together nicely!..Can't wait to see the forks on it and the gas tank choice.Are you going with a front fender?
    No front fender.
    I just do not like the looks of a front fender with the springer front forks.

  15. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by Luky View Post
    I was looking for rear caliper mounts for rigids and found out the prices were completely insane! Example...
    Attachment 87842
    Just the simple flat aluminum bracket with 4 holes in it and no bushing was being sold for $71-$165.,.
    Meanwhile in the sprint car world a caliper bracket is $9.99!!!

    The car world would not put up with a price as high as the motorcycle world.
    Unfortunately there was a lack of used ones on Ebay. Those usually sold for $15.00
    I actually sent a letter out to a vendor complaining about this price. (Excuse me, price point!) Happy.

    Please do not pay $149 for a bracket with no bushing.
    Now vendors are calling it a "vintage" caliper bracket!
    I completely agree with your comments. By the way I admire the build and what you're accomplishing there.

    ....i was looking for a simple aftermarket headlight bracket and found them for $48-68... literally a simple flat pattern with 2 holes. I made one in 20 min on the bandsaw. If at all possible i try never to support this thievery with a purchase.

    ,........ cant wait to see the finished build..

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by chopdrice View Post
    I completely agree with your comments. By the way I admire the build and what you're accomplishing there.

    ....i was looking for a simple aftermarket headlight bracket and found them for $48-68... literally a simple flat pattern with 2 holes. I made one in 20 min on the bandsaw. If at all possible i try never to support this thievery with a purchase.

    ,........ cant wait to see the finished build..
    I bought a set of these for a CB750 and they were high quality polished aluminum.
    https://www.dimecitycycles.com/vinta...-66-35830.html

  17. #57
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    The fender arrived and I am mounting and measuring. No garden hose was harmed.
    I need to move the wheel backward a little to account for chain adjustment.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then I can make my cut outs for the right side chain.
    I bought these tabs at Industrial metal supply in Tucson. They have many sizes of these tabs for sale.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sorry the photo is a little blurry.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I do not have to remove the rear wheel to remove the fender.
    Side struts are next.
    Clearance under the fender is 1/2".
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bottom-mount.jpg  
    Last edited by Luky; 11-20-2018 at 4:26 PM. Reason: spelling

  18. #58
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    One more photo.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Simple ,effective.
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    Standing back.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Luky; 11-20-2018 at 6:12 PM.

  19. #59
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    Fender strut day.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I use stainless 1/4x20 panhead screws on the inside of the fender and it will get domed nuts on the outside.
    All Home Depot had was 1/4 x 28 domed nuts. Vender is at fault/
    Also there were no 1/4 x 28 screws to match!
    On final assembly I will have to go on another easter egg hunt to get 1/4 x 20 domed nuts. Home Depot did have a small selection of CHROME bolts.
    Last edited by Luky; 11-21-2018 at 2:00 PM.

  20. #60
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    This is a real Bates seat not a Bates style seat.
    Today was seat day.
    I ended up making an adjustment to the seat hinge to make the seat lower.
    Got it down one inch. The seat is 2" thick.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The seat must be level for any comfort. Also my inseam measurement would allow my feet to touch the ground.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Most all motorcycles have the nose of the seat near the rear of the front cylinder head.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here you can see the shape of the Bates seat.
    Next step is to measure the height of the seat spring post attachment and then figure out spring length and weld on spring base height.

    Once this seat is finished the foot controls can finally be located and attached.
    Last edited by Luky; 12-01-2018 at 12:56 PM.

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