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Last edited by Luky; 08-19-2018, 9:00 AM. -
Working on the oil tank oil line fittings.
The stock oil lines will not be used because I am not using the stock oil tank.
The stock oil lines are steel tubing fitted and soldered or brazed to brass adapter plates with O rings.
I tried to de solder the brass fittings on the engine end of the stock steel tube oil lines but it did not work.
So I cut the fittings off flush from the brass adapter plate.
I drilled the steel tube stub out of the brass fitting with a step drill.
When the hole was large enough I finished drilling with a 5/8 drill bit down to where the tube ends inside the fitting.
I took a 3/8-18 NPT tap and tapped the hole as far as I could.
It needed more threads so I used a bottoming tap to get the threads as far in as possible.
I could not find a bottoming tap without waiting to order one, so I just ground off the regular tap and made my own bottoming tap.( use a cut off wheel. Hack saw will not work)
I bought two 3/8-18 brass 90ยบ fittings with 1/2" hose barbs and threaded them into the fitting. I shortened each fitting threads to make sure the fitting would tighten up without bottoming in the hole. Cut off two threads on each fitting. I will solder them also, once I know the position I want them to be in.
Photo:
You can drill out the undrilled hole in one of the factory adapter plates shown so two bolts can be used in each adapter plate. One factory adapter plate had only one hole drilled, The other adapter plate had two holes.
Install two new O rings.
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I now have the rigid frame from Cycleonemanufacturers.
This is a photo of the frame right before it left the factory. Locust Grove Oklahoma.
Very nicely welded! The neck bracing was very good!
More photos from my shop tomorrow.
Frame in my shop with my Roadster engine installed and shimmed up. Tucson, Arizona.
Click on the photos for a large version.
Important Note: To get this engine into this frame no one lifted the engine.
The engine was layed on its side on a foam cushion then two people lifted the bare frame and lowered it over the engine. The long bottom engine bolt was inserted
and then the frame with engine was tipped upright.Last edited by Luky; 10-10-2018, 1:48 PM.Comment
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Today I lined up the rear wheel with tire in the center of the frame.
Then I used a aluminum angle clamped to the countershaft sprocket
to get a measurement from the rear wheel hub to where the rear sprocket will be.
I like the look of the bike so far. Very promising!
I forgot to mention it but I weighed the frame and it was almost exactly 45 lbs,.
A Suzuki 1400 Intruder frame weighs 44lbs. Without the swing arm.
Aluminum angle across the face of both sprockets to align chain.
Click on photo for a larger picture.Last edited by Luky; 02-02-2019, 1:12 PM.Comment
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Some things you might want to know when working on the Roadstar family of motorcycles.
I will add to the list as this build goes on,
The cover for the starter solenoid on the Roadstar is just a smooth black cover.
The starter solenoid on the Roadstar Warrior has fins on it and looks cool!
This is one of those interchangeable parts.
The Warrior engine engine mount on the bottom rear is removable and excellent for using a custom frame. I recently saw 3 of these mounts for sale on Ebay for around $15-$26.
Engine mount bolts.
If you want to put in some shiny new bolts into the engine mounts I found out that the 12mm bolts which are theoretically .472 thousandths are actually .467 thousandths.
So you can get stainless steel bolts 1/2" and those are actually .490 thousandths diameter. They will slip right in the engine and mount bracket hole. They are only .010 thousandths tighter. They slip right in.Last edited by Luky; 02-02-2019, 12:56 PM.Comment
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that engine/frame combo looks fantastic!
cycleone builds sum great frames,,keep up the great work!Comment
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Cycleonemanufacturing has built three frames for me.Comment
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Build's looking good-thanks for sharing!Comment
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Thanks Hoghead!Comment
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This is the first steps to the build after getting the engine in the frame and shimmed.
Getting the rear wheel with tire centered. Wheel must not be moved from this position.
Getting the front and rear sprocket in alignment.
Getting the necessary spacers in place on the drive side.
Make sure the chain will not rub the rear tire.
This wheel required a 1/4" thick sprocket spacer to get the chain away from the tire.
This is for those that have not done this before.
You only have to do it once.
It is easier with a good selection of spacers.
Last edited by Luky; 11-09-2018, 7:57 AM.Comment
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I really like where this is going!Comment
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I was looking for rear caliper mounts for rigids and found out the prices were completely insane! Example...
Just the simple flat aluminum bracket with 4 holes in it and no bushing was being sold for $71-$165.,.
Meanwhile in the sprint car world a caliper bracket is $9.99!!!
The car world would not put up with a price as high as the motorcycle world.
Unfortunately there was a lack of used ones on Ebay. Those usually sold for $15.00
I actually sent a letter out to a vendor complaining about this price. (Excuse me, price point!) Happy.
Please do not pay $149 for a bracket with no bushing.
Now vendors are calling it a "vintage" caliper bracket!Comment
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I got a brake disc and the caliper mount plate.
With those parts I was able to complete the left side of the rear wheel set up.
I fabricated a Brake reaction rod frame mount and tacked it on the frame.
I happen to have a Yamaha Warrior rear engine mount which was removable that I got when I bought a pile of bolts from Ebay. So I used that mount.
Click on photo for a larger image.Last edited by Luky; 10-07-2018, 11:35 AM.Comment
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I was anxious to see what the front wheel was going to look like and got a pic of that.
Now I can take measurements for front forks.
The new American look!
Click on photo for larger image.Last edited by Luky; 10-10-2018, 1:50 PM.Comment
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