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Thread: Roadstar Bobber

  1. #1
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    Default Roadstar Bobber

    This is a new build.
    I started by buying a engine from Ebay.
    Be careful what you buy!! What I mean is make sure parts are not missing.
    Every missing item could be $10.-$50.


    The engine weighs 250lbs., without the middle drive/oil reservoir.
    I needed to get the engine up on my build table. I did not have a hydraulic lift table.
    Here is what I did. I scootched the engine off of the pallet onto the table.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click on photo for a larger version.
    I moved the engine by hand then I would jack the other end of the table up and attach legs.

    (to be continued)
    Last edited by Luky; 10-13-2018 at 7:14 PM.

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    WE (My wife and lovely assistant and I) got the build table level. About two hours work.
    Glad its over! The engine is a 2004 Roadstar engine with 37,000 miles.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    to be continued....
    Last edited by Luky; 05-26-2018 at 11:07 AM.

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    "to be continued...." that looks like a better way than liftin' it up on the bench.
    What is your vision for this build?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    "to be continued...." that looks like a better way than liftin' it up on the bench.
    What is your vision for this build?
    We got the end of the bench about halfway up then I attached some legs in the middle of the bench for safety. We moved the engine towards the other end of the bench and it was much easier to jack up.
    My vision is sort of like...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click on photo for a larger version.
    Last edited by Luky; 07-18-2018 at 9:40 PM.

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    That's a great vision for your build - if you can turn that yammie into a knuck, I'm definitely subscribing!LOL.
    Oh, and I would add a vertical piece of 2x4 between the upper and lower rails next to the uprights on your bench if you haven't done it already...

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    "Add another 2x4 between rails." The shear strength of a single 16 penny nail is 1100LBs.!

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    I spent some time removing that murderous black spray paint that was on some chrome engine parts.
    I like the look that has some bling sprinkled around.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can click on the photo to get a larger picture.
    Last edited by Luky; 01-28-2019 at 8:52 PM.

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    I ordered a sprocket for the engine countershaft(right side drive).
    It is from Pro Tek #551 for Yamaha MT-01 (same as Roadstar). It fit perfectly.
    It is stainless ,probably 400 series.

    On a previous build that was the same except left side drive like a stock
    Yamaha Roadstar, I got a Yamaha R1 sprocket #556 from
    Sprocket Specialists. It was steel. Either sprocket will work.

    Either sprocket will fit the countershaft left or right side of the engine(same shaft size).
    I like this sprocket with the holes in it.

    Photo right side drive from the countershaft.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This Yamaha V twin does not need the (middle drive) gear box/oil tank.
    It is a hollow aluminum box with a shaft running through it from the right side of the engine to the left side of the engine. The purpose of this was to lower the speed of the output shaft so that the belts would last longer. It also holds 2 extra quarts of oil for the engine. The total oil supply for the engine is 4 quarts. So it is a partly dry sump oil system.
    Last edited by Luky; 02-26-2019 at 9:31 AM. Reason: add photo.

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    Things I have done this week.

    I installed a Adjustable thumbscrew Air pilot screw to this carb.
    I had to carefully straighten out the hole it went in because someone had buggered it up.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I also installed two AIS (Air Injection System) block off plates on the engine cylinders.

    Installed a new cam case outer cover that the salvage yard busted,or was damaged in an accident.

    Installed a new clutch disengagement arm and spring that the salvage yard lost from the engine.

    Next is new jetting and slide needle for the stock carb for "stage 2" configured intake and exhaust.
    Last edited by Luky; 08-19-2018 at 8:53 AM.

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    The rear wheel arrived today. Yeaaah!!!
    60 spoke chrome wheel. tubeless style.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    16 x 5.5" 3/4 axle.
    Last edited by Luky; 06-27-2018 at 2:57 PM.

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    To sum up so far.
    I have the engine.
    I built a build table.
    I have two wheels with tires mounted.
    I had trouble mounting one tire and the solution
    was to put the tire and wheel out in the sun and that
    made getting the tire on completely easy.
    I also have a wiring harness.
    I have the engine mounting bolts.
    Last edited by Luky; 08-19-2018 at 8:53 AM.

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    Nice project; looking forward to seeing more.

    I have often thought the roadstars have good looking motors. I always like seeing them built into cool things and you have some good inspiration bikes shown.

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    Quote Originally Posted by forty4ma9 View Post
    Nice project; looking forward to seeing more.

    I have often thought the roadstars have good looking motors. I always like seeing them built into cool things and you have some good inspiration bikes shown.
    Yes.... forty4ma9 I agree that the Yamaha Roadstar engine is a great looking engine for a custom bike.

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    Both wheels with tires mounted.
    Both wheels 60 spoke.
    Big investment,but worth it.
    Rear is 200mm x 16 x 5.5, Radial, tubeless.
    Front is 21" x 2.15 rim, Bias ply, tubeless.
    Both tires Avon Cobra. Avon said this was ok .
    Both tires are V rated.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Luky; 09-19-2018 at 6:25 PM.

  15. #15

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    Looking good!
    I have 3 Roadstars right now, 2000 I fixed from a slow speed lowside, 2003 bobber project & 2006 I refer to as 'the pretty bike'.

    Roadstar engines not only look tough, they're insanely tough inside. Possibly the best engineered pushrod twin ever made.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spelkbot View Post
    Looking good!
    I have 3 Roadstars right now, 2000 I fixed from a slow speed lowside, 2003 bobber project & 2006 I refer to as 'the pretty bike'.

    Roadstar engines not only look tough, they're insanely tough inside. Possibly the best engineered pushrod twin ever made.
    WOW! Three roadstars!!
    I especially like the carbarated models. 2006 was the best of all.
    Last edited by Luky; 08-19-2018 at 9:00 AM.

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    Working on the oil tank oil line fittings.
    The stock oil lines will not be used because I am not using the stock oil tank.
    The stock oil lines are steel tubing fitted and soldered or brazed to brass adapter plates with O rings.

    I tried to de solder the brass fittings on the engine end of the stock steel tube oil lines but it did not work.
    So I cut the fittings off flush from the brass adapter plate.
    I drilled the steel tube stub out of the brass fitting with a step drill.
    When the hole was large enough I finished drilling with a 5/8 drill bit down to where the tube ends inside the fitting.
    I took a 3/8-18 NPT tap and tapped the hole as far as I could.
    It needed more threads so I used a bottoming tap to get the threads as far in as possible.
    I could not find a bottoming tap without waiting to order one, so I just ground off the regular tap and made my own bottoming tap.( use a cut off wheel. Hack saw will not work)
    I bought two 3/8-18 brass 90 fittings with 1/2" hose barbs and threaded them into the fitting. I shortened each fitting threads to make sure the fitting would tighten up without bottoming in the hole. Cut off two threads on each fitting. I will solder them also, once I know the position I want them to be in.
    Photo:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can drill out the undrilled hole in one of the factory adapter plates shown so two bolts can be used in each adapter plate. One factory adapter plate had only one hole drilled, The other adapter plate had two holes.
    Install two new O rings.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Luky; 09-23-2018 at 11:18 AM. Reason: add photo

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    I now have the rigid frame from Cycleonemanufacturers.
    This is a photo of the frame right before it left the factory. Locust Grove Oklahoma.
    Very nicely welded! The neck bracing was very good!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    More photos from my shop tomorrow.

    Frame in my shop with my Roadster engine installed and shimmed up. Tucson, Arizona.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click on the photos for a large version.

    Important Note: To get this engine into this frame no one lifted the engine.
    The engine was layed on its side on a foam cushion then two people lifted the bare frame and lowered it over the engine. The long bottom engine bolt was inserted
    and then the frame with engine was tipped upright.
    Last edited by Luky; 10-10-2018 at 1:48 PM.

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    Today I lined up the rear wheel with tire in the center of the frame.
    Then I used a aluminum angle clamped to the countershaft sprocket
    to get a measurement from the rear wheel hub to where the rear sprocket will be.
    I like the look of the bike so far. Very promising!
    I forgot to mention it but I weighed the frame and it was almost exactly 45 lbs,.
    A Suzuki 1400 Intruder frame weighs 44lbs. Without the swing arm.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Aluminum angle across the face of both sprockets to align chain.

    Click on photo for a larger picture.
    Last edited by Luky; 02-02-2019 at 2:12 PM.

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    Some things you might want to know when working on the Roadstar family of motorcycles.
    I will add to the list as this build goes on,

    The cover for the starter solenoid on the Roadstar is just a smooth black cover.
    The starter solenoid on the Roadstar Warrior has fins on it and looks cool!
    This is one of those interchangeable parts.

    The Warrior engine engine mount on the bottom rear is removable and excellent for using a custom frame. I recently saw 3 of these mounts for sale on Ebay for around $15-$26.

    Engine mount bolts.
    If you want to put in some shiny new bolts into the engine mounts I found out that the 12mm bolts which are theoretically .472 thousandths are actually .467 thousandths.
    So you can get stainless steel bolts 1/2" and those are actually .490 thousandths diameter. They will slip right in the engine and mount bracket hole. They are only .010 thousandths tighter. They slip right in.
    Last edited by Luky; 02-02-2019 at 1:56 PM.

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