Hey folks, im hoping someon can point me in the right direction. Im trying to come up with a very simplified wiring schematic for an 80” evo. I started out with a 99 softail and am doing away with the factory wiring harness. The bike will need headlight, tail light, brake light, and a running engine. The starter will be handled by a push button directly on the starter. Ive searched and searched and cannot find what im after, and i guess im not smart enough to work through the factory harness solo. There is a lot there and i just need some guidance. Factory ignition with voes
80” evo basic wiring help
Collapse
Desktop Ad Forum Top
Collapse
Mobile ad top forum
Collapse
X
-
Tags: None
-
Im trying to come up with a very simplified wiring schematic for an 80” evo...started out with a 99 softail... need headlight, tail light, brake light, and a running engine...starter will be handled by a push button directly on the starter...Factory ignition with voes
2017 Thread: Easy chopper wiring 91 Evo Softail
Hello to all. I am looking for a easy Chopper wiring diagram for a 91 Softail. Obviously just the bare essentials. Just want it to run with a headlight, tail light, and brake light. If anyone has a easy diagram like this or know where I can find a link it would be greatly appreciated.
2015 Thread: 97 Evo Chopper wiring help
I'm starting from scratch, very simple stripped down rigid, kick only, 12v battery, minimal electrical chopper. Stock 97 Evo motor has 3 wire (red,green, black) with triangle plug coming from cam plate ignition. How do I run these to a coil? Does it require a separate electronic module? I have not even begun any wiring nor have
Which includes this comment by WOZ:
One of the common questions I hear quite a bit is "How do I get rid of all the bullshit wiring on my Evo Sportster"? It's really not rocket science, especially on earlier ones but it can be intimidating to hack up the bundle of perfectly operating wires just for the sake of getting the bare-bones aesthetic. For
"that thread should have all your answers"
2014 Thread: Need simple evo bigtwin wiring
anyone have a simplified bigtwin wiring diagram? seems theyre all for sportsters. The part that confuses me is the starter relay. I need to rewire my fxr and i want to keep the on/off and start switch on the bars as well as the hi/lo, but i basically want to get rid of all the other wires other than brake and my oil light.
Got a manual?
Look here:
2012 Thread: HD Manuals .pdf
I posted three of these links on the main forum the other day and saw some interest. So why not just share the whole lot. To make it clear I did get these links from another forum, so I have no control over any of them if thay fail or whatever. Enjoy! HARLEY DAVIDSON SERVICE and PARTS MANUALS H-D Manuals OEM Numbers.pdfIf buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy... -
That's how we studied aircraft circuitry and it works very well.
Make sure you get quality crimpers, wire, heat shrink and bare crimp connectors, not that auto store shit with sheet metal crimpers and silly heavy bulky plastic sleeves. Good tools don't cost much and produce better results. You also want a heat gun for the heat shrink. Cheap is fine and every shop needs one or several.
Someone else posted this supplier (I forget the thread, I'm waiting for morning coffee to kick in) and I bought this wire selection through their Ebay store.
GRAY STRIPE. BROWN STRIPE. YELLOW STRIPE. GREEN STRIPE. BLUE STRIPE. WHITE STRIPE. BLACK STRIPE. ORANGE STRIPE.
I then got some 3mm clear heatshrink here:
That's to hold printed wire labels which was another 33ers superb idea. Type wire labels (charging, ground, high beam, ground etc) then print 'em and cut the paper to fit over the wire and slide into the clear heat shrink. I roll my labels over a small round screwdriver shank before insertion. Label near the ends of wires and everything from assembly to future troubleshooting just got a lot more convenient.
Use circuit breakers, not fuses. You can get blade style breakers to fit aftermarket breaker panels or inline blade style fuse holders.
You'll want a tube of Permatex Dielectric Tuneup Grease to exclude moisture from connections like the alternator connector or anywhere else you want to avert corrosion.
You can get everything online easily which is good since auto store wiring supplies tend to be shit.
I make battery cables using light gauge welding cable (local welding supply has it on rolls and will cut to length) and copper lugs. Battery side terminal lug bolt holes are nominally 1/4" diameter so welding supplies may not have those but Ebay and industrial suppliers do.
Make yourself a boxed kit of all your wiring shit because loose parts suck to deal with. I use Plano and Flambeau clear boxes from the fishing section of Walmart. They are US made.Comment
-
"That's to hold printed wire labels which was another 33ers superb idea. Type wire labels (charging, ground, high beam, ground etc) then print 'em and cut the paper to fit over the wire and slide into the clear heat shrink."
Here is a link to the thread, by industrialmarshmallow, which farmall was referring to; electrical artistry:
I am the third owner, my PO bought it from the original owner (who was a friend of his) about 4.5-5 years ago. My PO took it apart about a year and a half ago after gas spilled on the tank and ruined the paint. He intended to repaint and add a wide tire kit, but one thing led to another and neither of those things happened.If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
-
That's how we studied aircraft circuitry and it works very well.
Make sure you get quality crimpers, wire, heat shrink and bare crimp connectors, not that auto store shit with sheet metal crimpers and silly heavy bulky plastic sleeves. Good tools don't cost much and produce better results. You also want a heat gun for the heat shrink. Cheap is fine and every shop needs one or several.
Someone else posted this supplier (I forget the thread, I'm waiting for morning coffee to kick in) and I bought this wire selection through their Ebay store.
GRAY STRIPE. BROWN STRIPE. YELLOW STRIPE. GREEN STRIPE. BLUE STRIPE. WHITE STRIPE. BLACK STRIPE. ORANGE STRIPE.
I then got some 3mm clear heatshrink here:
That's to hold printed wire labels which was another 33ers superb idea. Type wire labels (charging, ground, high beam, ground etc) then print 'em and cut the paper to fit over the wire and slide into the clear heat shrink. I roll my labels over a small round screwdriver shank before insertion. Label near the ends of wires and everything from assembly to future troubleshooting just got a lot more convenient.
Use circuit breakers, not fuses. You can get blade style breakers to fit aftermarket breaker panels or inline blade style fuse holders.
You'll want a tube of Permatex Dielectric Tuneup Grease to exclude moisture from connections like the alternator connector or anywhere else you want to avert corrosion.
You can get everything online easily which is good since auto store wiring supplies tend to be shit.
I make battery cables using light gauge welding cable (local welding supply has it on rolls and will cut to length) and copper lugs. Battery side terminal lug bolt holes are nominally 1/4" diameter so welding supplies may not have those but Ebay and industrial suppliers do.
Make yourself a boxed kit of all your wiring shit because loose parts suck to deal with. I use Plano and Flambeau clear boxes from the fishing section of Walmart. They are US made.Comment
-
Badass. Thanks a lot to those who have replied. I think i will get some equipment, and start to work off of the factory witing schematic and just start dropping off things i dont need. Thanks again for all the repliesComment
-
Comment
-
^^ This is a good diagram. If it’s a single fire system, you’ll have a wire for the tach (which you can choose to use or fold in if not needed) one for the VOES, power wire to the IG system from the coil (the key switch will provide power to the coil as shown in the photo, this in tandem supplies power to the whole system), and then a wire going to two different terminals, to supply each cylinder with its own spark signal at the coil. Dual fire is the same just one less spark signal wire. VOES is a plug and play deal, it just needs to be connected to the IG and grounded. The VOES internally does all it needs to when it’s vacuum advanced.Comment
-
Comment
300 mobile ad bottom forum
Collapse
Comment