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  1. #1

    Default 80 evo basic wiring help

    Hey folks, im hoping someon can point me in the right direction. Im trying to come up with a very simplified wiring schematic for an 80 evo. I started out with a 99 softail and am doing away with the factory wiring harness. The bike will need headlight, tail light, brake light, and a running engine. The starter will be handled by a push button directly on the starter. Ive searched and searched and cannot find what im after, and i guess im not smart enough to work through the factory harness solo. There is a lot there and i just need some guidance. Factory ignition with voes

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    Quote Originally Posted by BurdetteDR View Post
    Im trying to come up with a very simplified wiring schematic for an 80” evo...started out with a 99 softail... need headlight, tail light, brake light, and a running engine...starter will be handled by a push button directly on the starter...Factory ignition with voes
    Might find somethin' here:

    2017 Thread: Easy chopper wiring 91 Evo Softail
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49090

    2015 Thread: 97 Evo Chopper wiring help
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44783
    Which includes this comment by WOZ:

    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12086
    "that thread should have all your answers"


    2014 Thread: Need simple evo bigtwin wiring
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36771

    Got a manual?
    Look here:
    2012 Thread: HD Manuals .pdf
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20835

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    Believe it was somewhere on this forum someone suggested making a copy of the factory wiring harness, and highlighting everything that isn't needed. Gives you a good starting point for your own no frills, bare bones, wiring harness.

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    That's how we studied aircraft circuitry and it works very well.

    Make sure you get quality crimpers, wire, heat shrink and bare crimp connectors, not that auto store shit with sheet metal crimpers and silly heavy bulky plastic sleeves. Good tools don't cost much and produce better results. You also want a heat gun for the heat shrink. Cheap is fine and every shop needs one or several.

    Someone else posted this supplier (I forget the thread, I'm waiting for morning coffee to kick in) and I bought this wire selection through their Ebay store.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-AUTOMOTI...72.m2749.l2649

    I then got some 3mm clear heatshrink here:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-FEET-1-8...72.m2749.l2649

    That's to hold printed wire labels which was another 33ers superb idea. Type wire labels (charging, ground, high beam, ground etc) then print 'em and cut the paper to fit over the wire and slide into the clear heat shrink. I roll my labels over a small round screwdriver shank before insertion. Label near the ends of wires and everything from assembly to future troubleshooting just got a lot more convenient.

    Use circuit breakers, not fuses. You can get blade style breakers to fit aftermarket breaker panels or inline blade style fuse holders.

    You'll want a tube of Permatex Dielectric Tuneup Grease to exclude moisture from connections like the alternator connector or anywhere else you want to avert corrosion.

    You can get everything online easily which is good since auto store wiring supplies tend to be shit.

    I make battery cables using light gauge welding cable (local welding supply has it on rolls and will cut to length) and copper lugs. Battery side terminal lug bolt holes are nominally 1/4" diameter so welding supplies may not have those but Ebay and industrial suppliers do.

    Make yourself a boxed kit of all your wiring shit because loose parts suck to deal with. I use Plano and Flambeau clear boxes from the fishing section of Walmart. They are US made.

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    "That's to hold printed wire labels which was another 33ers superb idea. Type wire labels (charging, ground, high beam, ground etc) then print 'em and cut the paper to fit over the wire and slide into the clear heat shrink."

    Here is a link to the thread, by industrialmarshmallow, which farmall was referring to; electrical artistry:
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...t=50111&page=2

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    That's how we studied aircraft circuitry and it works very well.

    Make sure you get quality crimpers, wire, heat shrink and bare crimp connectors, not that auto store shit with sheet metal crimpers and silly heavy bulky plastic sleeves. Good tools don't cost much and produce better results. You also want a heat gun for the heat shrink. Cheap is fine and every shop needs one or several.

    Someone else posted this supplier (I forget the thread, I'm waiting for morning coffee to kick in) and I bought this wire selection through their Ebay store.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-AUTOMOTI...72.m2749.l2649

    I then got some 3mm clear heatshrink here:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-FEET-1-8...72.m2749.l2649

    That's to hold printed wire labels which was another 33ers superb idea. Type wire labels (charging, ground, high beam, ground etc) then print 'em and cut the paper to fit over the wire and slide into the clear heat shrink. I roll my labels over a small round screwdriver shank before insertion. Label near the ends of wires and everything from assembly to future troubleshooting just got a lot more convenient.

    Use circuit breakers, not fuses. You can get blade style breakers to fit aftermarket breaker panels or inline blade style fuse holders.

    You'll want a tube of Permatex Dielectric Tuneup Grease to exclude moisture from connections like the alternator connector or anywhere else you want to avert corrosion.

    You can get everything online easily which is good since auto store wiring supplies tend to be shit.

    I make battery cables using light gauge welding cable (local welding supply has it on rolls and will cut to length) and copper lugs. Battery side terminal lug bolt holes are nominally 1/4" diameter so welding supplies may not have those but Ebay and industrial suppliers do.

    Make yourself a boxed kit of all your wiring shit because loose parts suck to deal with. I use Plano and Flambeau clear boxes from the fishing section of Walmart. They are US made.
    Awesome post

  7. #7

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    Badass. Thanks a lot to those who have replied. I think i will get some equipment, and start to work off of the factory witing schematic and just start dropping off things i dont need. Thanks again for all the replies

  8. #8

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    Ok, so the plot thickens. My bike has a spyke stampede ignition in it and their instructions make it look like I can trigger the coil directly from the unit mounted in the cone. Is this the case? If I could drop out the factory ICM from the circuit and simplify matters, I would be ecstatic.Click image for larger version. 

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    The spyke should be a stand alone ignition system, so the factory module is not needed. Everything that is done by the module is done by the unit in the nose cone.

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    Substitute stand alone aftermarket ignition for points


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    Quote Originally Posted by 12w3e4r View Post
    Substitute stand alone aftermarket ignition for points

    ^^ This is a good diagram. If its a single fire system, youll have a wire for the tach (which you can choose to use or fold in if not needed) one for the VOES, power wire to the IG system from the coil (the key switch will provide power to the coil as shown in the photo, this in tandem supplies power to the whole system), and then a wire going to two different terminals, to supply each cylinder with its own spark signal at the coil. Dual fire is the same just one less spark signal wire. VOES is a plug and play deal, it just needs to be connected to the IG and grounded. The VOES internally does all it needs to when its vacuum advanced.

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