Panhead, Tapered vs. Splined, Belt aligment.

[Dragstews]

Drag will have to get involved here but watch out !!
That crankpin replacement could easily turn itself into a 93" stroker motor with a turbo.

Hahaha .... Not running a one inch motor sprocket shaft.... Well, at least the Turbo ..!!

Hummmmmmmmmmmmm ..... That's looks really bad ...
Hate to say it, but that shaft is toast ... Needs to be replaced pronto ..



It's more of a job to do for a novice, but in the hands of a pro, about two days work to tear down the motor, pull the flywheels apart, plug in a new shaft and reassemble...

Be prepared to find other needs that needs to be addressed ....

[47str8leg]

Unfortunately the shadowy hand of death has visited your crankpin...
That is a major downer but not as bad as it flying off at 70 mph. Then you might have heard " Ask not for whom the bell tolls, it tolls for thee..." as that shadowy hand came for you instead...

[Dragstews]

Shit .... Another sleepless night ....

.../// https://youtu.be/ozW4mmKzcYQ \\\...

[gorgeous]

A buddy is leaving me his bike for a month while he goes on tour because I put in a hammer performance 1250 kit for him. so Im not really in a rush. (Ported heads, Andrews N-8 cams, 1250 jugs, bumped up the compression. thing sounds like a racecar now.its really fast).

Is there a reason I shouldnt do this myself? I've done just about everything short of a full rebuild on twin cams and evos, cams, top ends, s&s gear drive shit on the twin cam, even put a magneto on it, so i kind of feel like i'm probably capable of disassembly and reassembly and bring it to my local guy to do the flywheel stuff.

[Dragstews]

Get your feet wet ....

As far as getting into the lower end...
There are a few things that you may see that needs special tools to bring out of specs back in specs..

Lets do a check right now to get a feel of how much ware you may have on the motor..

Set up a indicator on the end of the sprocket shaft... Push the shaft in and zero the dial, then pull out on the shaft and see how much of a reading you have .... 0.012 to 0.014 is what the spec is for end play... If yo're way over that... Motor seen some mega time on the road...

[gorgeous]

Being that these are aftermarket cases, do I step up and do the splined shaft 55+ bearing conversion? It'd be nice while I have it apart, maybe bump up compression and put a hotter cam in there. Maybe some aftermarket heads....... Its already 4 3/4 stroke.

Other than Dial indicator, mic, and calipers, are there any other specific tools?

I checked the shaft this morning, I dont have a dial indicator any more so I just ordered one. There was no movement that I could feel, not that 12 thousands is a lot. I dont think this motor has many miles on it, cylinders looked pretty good when i had the heads off. Just some ham-fisted fuck with an impact gun got to it...

[Dragstews]

Being that these are aftermarket cases, do I step up and do the splined shaft 55+ bearing conversion? It'd be nice while I have it apart, maybe bump up compression and put a hotter cam in there. Maybe some aftermarket heads....... Its already 4 3/4 stroke.

Other than Dial indicator, mic, and calipers, are there any other specific tools?

Dat's my Boy .... !!!

4-3/4" stroke is Bad-Ass for the early Pans and Knucks ... Gets the cubes up to 89.6"

In order to upgrade to the 55-up spline sprocket shaft is a bit of work and a few $$$
First off yo'll be needing a new left side case that has been casted with mega more meat in the area of the bearing bore to support the Timken .... And you be in luck cause a left side case is available just for this purpose....



This case is a faithful reproduction of the left–hand 1948-1954 Panhead engine case except that it has been made to take the Timken main bearing. With this case you can build your Panhead using a ’57-’81 pre-commonized crankshaft, which uses the stronger Timken bearing. It is made from 356 aluminum alloy which has been heat treated to T6 specifications. The cylinder deck and bore, the motor mounts, and the main bearing bore are all left with .040-.060 of material so that it can be perfectly matched up to your original right hand case, which we can do for you if necessary. If you want your motor to look like it did when it originally came from Milwaukee, then this is the case for you but with the later, stronger, (69-up) Timken bearing .

I'm pretty sure that the taper in your motor sprocket pulley has been killed, so you will be needing another one anyhow..
Also the inner primary cover will need to be replace with the 55-64 one...

You can keep the flywheels that are in it now.... But to add a bit more beef to the left wheel, you can have it machined for the huge taper of the L81-86 shaft design...
This mod just about doubles the foot contact area in the wheel..

S&S makes that shaft in the dimensions of the 55-up shaft, but with the taper and key-way for the L81-86 shaft ....

[gorgeous]

Where you located Drag? You mind sending me your number and I'll give you a call?

[Dragstews]

I live where the lizards grow huge and have sharp teeth .... Not to mention the dragonflies large enough to pack a house cat.. !!

.../// http://www.myrtlebeachwebdesign.com/koala-lizard.html \\\...

And about ten miles up the road is where they filmed the old Tarzan (Johnny Weissmuller) movies back in the 30's and 40's ....

.../// http://www.nebo.edu/learning_resourc...ds/tarzan2.wav \\\...

.../// https://youtu.be/QvsQ9hYKq7c \\\...

[Dragstews]

Wait just a dog-gone second ....

You said your cases are STD after/market ....
Those are made with mega meat in the bearing bore from the start...

In other words, you won't be needing to buy a left case, you can bore out the case you have and sweat in a new case race for the Timkens...

[gorgeous]

Thats what they look like to me. I'll pull the motor tomorrow and get a better looksee.

[Dragstews]

Do think ya got a set of STD's
(Hell of a lot better than a case of !!)

Once the inner primary is pull off and you see meat where Oem case are weak in the meat department, you will only need to bore the case for the install of the Timken....



"IF" you see what's in the above photo, a new left side case will be needed...
( But, my bet is, it's going to look like the 48 to 54 STD case that's in post #25 earlier ..)
__________________________________________________

And on that note .....

Would ya look at all that deck area, more than enough to allow a set of 3-5/8" Big Bore jugs to be nailed down ... !!

That will get your cubie's up to 98 inches....
... /// https://youtu.be/bzdWRZEu3hk \\\... (Sun-gasses are optional)



.... The "Wizard of Speed" has spoken ... !!!

... (Dang ... I've gotta switch to decalf) ...
.../// https://youtu.be/27gG7xaLTqY \\\...

[Dragstews]

Well now....

Being you have a kick-ass set of cases.... You could go to the bore of 3-13/16" ....
With the stroke that you have and that bore .... Would be a handful of "Bad-Ass" at 108.4 cubes ...

I recall the late Ron Trock running that combo on a stock set of 1974 Shovelhead cases...

Drag will have to get involved here but watch out !!
That crankpin replacement could easily turn itself into a 93" stroker motor with a turbo.

Well, it's only a little more than 93 inches ...



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[gorgeous]

Looks good to me.

[Dragstews]

............................................... MEAT ...........................................

Tell ya what else that motor may has going for it...
It has the 58-up pinion shaft that stayed with Harley motors all the way up to the Twin Cams....

Bet there's also a set of S&S rods lurking inside of the critter ...