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  1. #1
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    Default 6 over fork installation

    This is crossposted from HDForum, so, there you go.

    DISCLAIMERS:
    1) Buy/acquire a FSM. Everyone says this and it's a great thing to have. I have a pdf for 2004-2006 sportys if you want it.
    2) If norcal style chop isn't your thing, move on. I know it's gonna handle weird. #MakeEmWorse.

    The planets finally aligned and the TC Bros 6 over fork tube kit was in stock at the same time I had the cash to buy it. AFAIK, there isn't a thread of a step by step with pics of how to do this. If there is, kindly direct me to it, and I won't post this.

    After watching Delboy's YT videos, and reading the manual for tube dis/reassembly, I think I can safely do this mod in my garage, with a small lift and hand tools.

    Everything was delivered today, so I'll do the install tonight, and post a write-up with photos tomorrow.

  2. #2
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    not my build but we always get stoked to see people working on their bikes. let see them pictures

  3. #3
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    The manual lays everything out in better detail than I thought, and Delboy is an invaluable resource.

    1) loosen the top TT bolts and fork cap with a 1 3/8 wrench (what the hell, harley?)
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    1.5) no pic, but remove the wheel

    2) Use Hulkamania strength to remove the 10mm 12point (again, wtf, hd?) bolts on the caliper.
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    3) Before you drain the oil, break the seal on the piston, which is a hex bolt. I did it like this. Same principle as delboy, but a little easier for me than doing it bare handed. Remember not to remove the bolt at this time - just break the seal.
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    4) Now you can remove the fork cap, remove the spring, and upend the whole fork to drain the oil
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  4. #4
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    No idea why these images are upside down.

    5) Now you can fully remove the hex bolt securing the piston, little spring, and oil seal fitting by sliding them out of the tube. Using the same method as delboy and the manual, jerk the seal and glider bushing out of the fork leg
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    6) Have a beer and a smoke because, hey, you're half way done.

    7) This is the oil seal fitting. It goes between the piston, which is threaded and secures the hex bolt on the bottom of the fork, and the fork leg. Remember this orientation and keep in mind it is soft metal.
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    8) Replace the bottom bushing to your new tubes, insert the oil seal fitting into the bottom of the fork tube, then slide the tube into the fork leg. Do it carefully, because that little fitting is a son of a bitch and he WILL turn loose and fall out of place at some point. You'll have to look down the tube to make sure it's orientated correctly or else you'll ruin it by jamming the fork tube on top of it and smashing it.
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    This is where pics stop, because I got excited and couldn't be bothered to take them.


    9) Use Delboys method to get your glider bushing wedged between the fork tube and the leg. It's not as easy as he made it look, but aside from buying the proper tool, it's the best way. The washer goes in after this, then the fork seal. One of my bushings was pretty badly warped by the removal process, so I had to buy a new one. Luckily for me, they're barely available online, and the nearest store that had them was a 100mi round trip. I love harleys.

    10) Use the same method for fitting the fork seal in place, then the retaining ring. Oh my god you're so close.

    11) Replace your dust cover, then the chrome cap that is pointless.

    12) Slowly slide the little spring and piston assembly down the tube and secure it with the hex bolt. You don't have to get it super tight at this time. Then insert the big spring.

    13) Extend the fork as far as it will go, and fill with oil.

    14) If you're not installing extended tubes, replace the fork cap. Congratulations, you've replaced a tube. put everything back together in reverse order of disassembly.

    15) If you're doing extended tubes because bitches dig longer tubes, insert the plastic washer on top of the big spring in the tube, then the PVC spacer. Then you can try real hard not to scream while you try to simultaneously depress the spacer and spring, while trying to thread the fork cap into the tube. This will make you hate your life.

    if you made it this far, lordy, you're done. Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly.

    I did this with hand tools, and a couple borrowed tools from a friend (the 1 3/8 wrench and the 10mm 12 gd point socket.) You can do it and be 33% more chopper.
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    Last edited by Theonlychrisj; 02-24-2018 at 11:25 AM.

  5. #5
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    nice job man

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Theonlychrisj View Post

    6) Have a beer and a smoke because, hey, you're half way done.
    I appreciate all the info and your witty quips

    I'm finishing my +8 forks this weekend and will post photos if all goes well.

    Getting the springs depressed is as hard as stuffing an elephant into a bucket.
    Last edited by sportychops; 04-28-2018 at 10:58 PM.

  7. #7

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    Farmall has a rig he made with a modified socket and a caulking gun to compress fork springs and get the cap back on.
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...pring+caulking
    Last edited by Arky403; 04-30-2018 at 8:29 AM.

  8. #8
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    Ha! That rules.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sportychops View Post
    I appreciate all the info and your witty quips

    I'm finishing my +8 forks this weekend and will post photos if all goes well.

    Getting the springs depressed is as hard as stuffing an elephant into a bucket.
    Hell yeah, dude. If I could do it again, I'd do 8 over

  10. #10
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    2 words for all y'all with 6 and 8 over front ends.....FORK BRACE

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarloFreeze View Post
    2 words for all y'all with 6 and 8 over front ends.....FORK BRACE
    I'll get one eventually. I've done a couple long trips with it since the installation, and haven't noticed any travel, but I know it's a good idea.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by CarloFreeze View Post
    2 words for all y'all with 6 and 8 over front ends.....FORK BRACE

    This is a good point, Carlo. Fortunately, my stock fender looks great and acts as a brace, so I re-installed it when I did my 8 overs.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Theonlychrisj View Post
    Hell yeah, dude. If I could do it again, I'd do 8 over
    Installed everything finally. Ran into a couple snags. 2016 Sportster XL883N models have a cartridge damper (kind of like a sport bike set up) on the left fork, whereas the right fork has the traditional damper tube. After looking through older Sportster model manuals, I found that up to 2015 (I think) they used traditional damper on both sides. So, I purchased all the right side internals from HD and installed it on the left side. So far, she handles fine, but hasn't been taken out at highway speeds or over a hellava lot of potholes, etc.

    Still need a headlight...and need to weld an extension onto the jiffy.

    Here's a photo.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #14
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    Looks killer, man. Love the tank and oil bag cover. Where'd you get those, if you don't mind?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sportychops View Post
    Still need a headlight...and need to weld an extension onto the jiffy.
    Have you considered dropping the ass end a couple inches and adding 6 or 8 degrees of rake to the neck? Then you could leave the jiffy stand alone.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by sportychops View Post
    Installed everything finally. Ran into a couple snags. 2016 Sportster XL883N models have a cartridge damper (kind of like a sport bike set up) on the left fork, whereas the right fork has the traditional damper tube. After looking through older Sportster model manuals, I found that up to 2015 (I think) they used traditional damper on both sides. So, I purchased all the right side internals from HD and installed it on the left side. So far, she handles fine, but hasn't been taken out at highway speeds or over a hellava lot of potholes, etc.

    Still need a headlight...and need to weld an extension onto the jiffy.

    Here's a photo.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm looking into doing this myself I also have a 16 iron and that stupid cartridge damper put a halt to everything, I already have my Frank's 8over tubes just need that left side done, were you able to order just the right side internals from HD? and if so what did that run you?

  17. #17
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    i just put +4's on my '04. i thought it might hurt turning a little bit harder, but i'd just get over it. turns out, i feel like it actually turns better now. i got a jig coming in the mail. rake is next....

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by wot2t View Post
    i just put +4's on my '04. i thought it might hurt turning a little bit harder, but i'd just get over it. turns out, i feel like it actually turns better now. i got a jig coming in the mail. rake is next....
    Agree. I like the handling with my 6over better than stock. Sporties are so light, the added weight in the front end feels great.

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny2by4 View Post
    I'm looking into doing this myself I also have a 16 iron and that stupid cartridge damper put a halt to everything, I already have my Frank's 8over tubes just need that left side done, were you able to order just the right side internals from HD? and if so what did that run you?
    Hey dude, I just ordered right side internals and slapped them in there. Worked like a charm. I think it was $200 bucks for everything -- internals, seals, bushings, etc.

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Theonlychrisj View Post
    Agree. I like the handling with my 6over better than stock. Sporties are so light, the added weight in the front end feels great.
    Yeah, agreed -- my 8 overs aren't that bad...a little tippy but it's not bad at all.

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