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  1. #21
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    7.) Here's the deal. I started looking around the rest of the engine and noticed even more eyebrow-raising stuff. On the cam cover, check out these photos... keeping in mind that this is a '71:

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    Best I can tell from 1971 - the bottom 6 o'clock off the genny should be just a breather tube. I confirmed that this is the squared off oil pump... so it should have the timed breather and therefore just needs a breather tube (no foo foo valve) off the generator housing. There shouldn't be anything off the top of this cover (12 o'clock position) should there????

    I removed both the 6 and 12 o'clock fittings. This is the top one (looks home-drilled-tapped... can't be factory right?):

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    This is the bottom - which looks correct, going up to the air/oil separator gyro at the end of the genny:

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    And this is the thing I took out. No idea what it is. Possibly a foo foo valve that is missing parts? Whatever it is, the black part was caulked/sealed/painted so many times it's solid. Almost has a hex allen wrench style fitting in the bottom black area. But it is solid. No venting or air/fluid passage through this thing.

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    I have a feeling that the previous owner blocked off the bottom one or tried a foo... didn't work... and one night late after some beers they decided to drill a new vent in the 12 o'clock position? The top vent is just a raw tee fitting with a hose. No backflow or valve.

    But for this breather to actually WORK on a '71... it has to come from the bottom right? Cause that's where the separator is inside? Or am I backwards?

    I guess this is my root questions:

    A) would it be best to get a stock breather valve for the 6 o'clock and seal off the top one with a solid bolt?
    B) if what they did IS ACTUALLY wrong... could that be causing weird pressure differences and be the suspect for why the primary side is somehow over pressurizing... causing the leak out the primary filler plug?

    I know this is a LOT of info and too many questions. But I'm struggling to make sense out of a bike that was clearly hacked together.

    Any help you guys could offer would be most excellent. Thanks in advance.

  2. #22
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    Here is info from XL Forum member, Hopper, which may be helpful;
    Engine breather 101 / Crankcase vent 101

    WHAT IS IT?
    The engine breather, or crankcase vent as Harley sometimes calls it, is to allow air out of the lower crankcase, but not in, as the pistons rise and fall. Without some kind of controlled breather, the lower end would become a 1,000cc air compressor, robbing the engine of several horsepower. Old time tuners like Jerry Branch, Tom Sifton and Dick O’Brien paid much attention to the engine breather because they knew it could give them extra horsepower if set up right.

    One thing not to do with an engine breather is to simply plumb a hose to the crankcase without some kind of one-way valve or timed breather valve. It is commonly done, but it wastes power and is not good for your engine.

    WHERE IS IT?

    Pre-1977
    There is a timed breather valve built into the oil pump drive, which vents crankcase pressure into the cam timing chest. A six-inch metal tube hanging down from the timing cover near the generator drive, at the 6 o’clock position vents that controlled pressure to atmosphere. A metal disc on the end of the generator drive gear centrifugally separates oil from the air as it is discharged overboard.

    LINKS
    Discussion on foo-foo valves and engine breathers pics etc here:
    http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=213630

    See thread here: http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?p=1960632

    Here is some interesting info for Sportsters from Texas-based IronHeadCycle, including Frequently Asked Questions With Answers, and 7 chapters of instructional on building the Sportster(though not directly related to your breather Q):
    http://www.ironheadcycle.com/pages/faq.html
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 02-19-2018 at 8:23 AM. Reason: added IronHeadCycle link

  3. #23
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    Awesome thanks for the link and info. I spent a few hours last night reading up on all the major forums on this topic. Definitely seems as though the way this bike was set up is not right. So I'm going to try to make it right. Ordered the $14 solid breather tube for the 6 o'clock position and will get a plug for the top fitting the P.O. drilled in. The question then becomes... did the P.O. do this because of some other problem? Makes me wonder about the status of the oil pump and oil pump timing. I do have an oil pump rebuild kit for the bottom end of it. When the motor comes out of the frame for paint, I might try to pull the cam cover and verify the oil pump timing and do the rebuild. I have no idea if this will have any impact on the primary side filler plug leak. But getting it all done right can't hurt. I hope. Ha.

  4. #24
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    In the meantime... spent some time last night mocking up the roller. Had to see some progress. Been waiting for months to put this springer on.

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  5. #25
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    Ugh... the hits keep coming. There are at least two major problems in this photo that I found this morning. 10 points for the first to notice. 100 points to the first to tell me the best way to fix them.

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  6. #26
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    What in the world is going on with the rear mount ... ???
    And where did the dowel pin go for the kick cover ... ??

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    Let's Pow-Wow some on what I see ....

    First arrow Top left:

    Stud snapped off .... That's going to be a booger to get out of the case... Going to need to pull the motor for that repair.

    Second Arrow down from dat:

    Holy Mowly ... Looks like the kick shaft case hole been welded up... If so ... Case will need to be stripped down to bare nothing and major machine work done...

    Arrow below that one ... Rear mount is toast .... After/market has a H-D replacement,



    Right side arrows:

    Dowel missing, easy fix..

    Speed-do hole needs to be welded up and the counter shaft bearing case bore beefed...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 02-23-2018 at 7:51 AM.

  7. #27
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    Yup. That pretty much sums it up. I hadn't yet researched that bottom area for the dowel and Speedo deal so thanks for the head-start.

    Yea so yesterday I spent a ton of time online on this motor mount and watched a few hours of Tatro's YouTube channel. I like the one you posted a pic of - the pingel - because the stockers require splitting the case right? I really don't want to split the case just for the motor mount. But that pingel should slide right on. More expensive but will save time and money overall. Plus it's super reinforced. Cool stuff.

    I'm still investigating the stud that broke off. I do plan on pulling the motor out later... and I've read up on it a bit. Gonna have to really set aside time for that task and be careful I guess. Here to... hoping that problem doesn't force a case split.

    On the kicker shaft, I'm going to inspect the welds when I have the motor out. If it's truly sealed up solid, then I'm going to leave it. I have the e-start. Would love to have the kicker too but I'm getting a bit $$ shy thanks to all the hack-jobbing that I'm finding on this donor.

    Course then again... I might have to bite the bullet and take the motor to a shop to be fully rebuilt. That will take a lot longer to get back on the road (financially) but shoot... if this kind of work is what I'm finding on the outside, what in the world is on the INSIDE of this motor?

  8. #28
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    The Heavy Duty mount does install without spiting the case...

    Your broken stud may be R&R-ed with the use of a Snap-on roller clutch stud remover tool, may see the need to heat the case up..

    If your not going to fix the case kick shaft hole, the dowel pin won't be needed.

    There is a way to beef the counter-shaft case bearing bore without welding the speedo hole up...
    Basically a ring is made up to press over the shoulder and then using the speedo driven gear with a taper ground to the gear installed under the pressed on ring in turn pushing up on the ring.... Granted it's not as beefy as welding, but is a heiiofa better off than leaving it stock....

  9. #29
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    Dragstews... shoot man - I just realized that we live 1.5 hrs away from eachother (if your profile is up to date). Dude... I'm gonna owe you some beers here in Tampa before this thing is over.

    On the mount - I'm definitely good with the pingel for sure. Best I've found is about $160 on eBay. Pricey but worth it all things considered.

    On the speedo - I'm considering just removing the drive and plugging the hole with the colony plug/bolt/washer kit. Concerns?

    And one final laugh for the morning - I checked the front motor mounts. The dude has those cobbled together too. Washers and spacers where they shouldn't be. The right side plate is cocked at an angle as a result. And the one top front stud to the frame was loose with center spacers that weren't the right length. Haha. AWESOME. Another part to replace.

    So with a half way loose front motor mount, a rear motor mount that was only the bottom two studs, and no top motor mount at all... no wonder thing thing vibrated like crazy. Holy cow.

    I have officially jumped right past the "forget this crap I'm bailing on this bike" stage and landed right in the "I'm now on a crusade to save this bike" mindset. I have to save it. It's up to me. The shop I bought it from was honest that it had problems and sold it to me for a fair price (I can say that now still - it was fair). But in the hands of someone else - they might have given up on it by now and it would have ended up getting parted out or parked in a garage for another decade. Not me. It's my baby now. Gotta make it right and save this 47 year old monster.

  10. #30
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    jfc cant believe someone welded up the kicker shaft hole....thats nasty.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpeak View Post

    On the speedo - I'm considering just removing the drive and plugging the hole with the colony plug/bolt/washer kit. Concerns?

    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45040

    http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=56923

    Jussssssst a bit of food for thought ...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 02-23-2018 at 10:17 AM.

  12. #32
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    In other news - finally finished up lacing, truing, and mounting the rear hub/spokes/rim/strip/tube/tire combo. Just kinda sitting there for now. Going to rebuild the drum brake internals and engrave the backing plate. Then I'll get it on the bike. Looks WAY better with chrome shoes each end now. Getting pumped again.

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  13. #33
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    Looks real nice with that 18"

  14. #34
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    18" rear is perfect!!

    You're in Tampa?

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by austieee View Post
    18" rear is perfect!!

    You're in Tampa?
    Just north of Tampa, yep. You too right? I live in West Pasco. Work in "New" Tampa up by USF.

  16. #36
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    Got some more work done over the past few weeks on non-motor stuff.

    So the gas tank is the type where it has the larger HD bung in the middle and two opposing Brit style bungs in the back. I didn't want to have to plug or mess with the two holes I'm not using so I decided to do this. Running a non-reserve petcock on the left rear side small bung. Then with the two bungs on the right side, got fittings to install a sight-gauge of sorts. It's really low on the tank so... if I see the level drop in this tube... I better get to a station quick. Oh well. Kinda looks cool and might (maybe sorta) be functional? Also got the new air cleaner mounted.

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    Spent a lot of engraving time too on the rear brake drum backing plate. Kinda came out cool I guess. I'm diggin it.

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  17. #37
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    Also got the new top motor mount in and relocated the coil with a little strap I engraved to protect the coil bolt holes from ob-longing, started shortening the throttle cable, got most of the rear brake linkage done, rear wheel mounted and on the bike, exhaust mocked up for design of rear mounts, new (correct) cam chest breather tube installed, started mapping out the new wiring diagram, made a headlight bracket and mounted the headlight, and a bunch of other dinky stuff. Got a lot more to do to get prepped for a trip to my buddy's shop for a welding session. He's going to weld up all of the tabs and bungs I need. I'm just stoked to be almost back at roller status and get this thing off the blocks. Desperately want to see this thing rolled out in the sunshine.

  18. #38
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    Cool idea with the "sight-gauge" to let you know you are out of gas...it looks lower than the tank so my guess it will still be full when the tank is empty.
    That engraving is great! Hope it helps you with stoppin'. It looks like you may need to change the location of the bottom mount for your sissy bar so you don't hide that fabulous work...

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Cool idea with the "sight-gauge" to let you know you are out of gas...it looks lower than the tank so my guess it will still be full when the tank is empty.
    That engraving is great! Hope it helps you with stoppin'. It looks like you may need to change the location of the bottom mount for your sissy bar so you don't hide that fabulous work...
    I was thinking that same thing with the sissy bar mount. Last night I was mocking up the rear brake rod too and its all kind of trying to take up the same real estate. Gotta play with it a little more. I think I'm going to have to run the brake rod outbound of the frame/sissy and bend the end of the rod in to to the lever arm. Not quite sure yet.

    On the sight gauge, I did test it with some gas earlier and I still had a decent bit of gas come out after I started to see air/daylight in the top of the line. I dunno. I'm sure I'll figure out a new design the first time I have to push it to a gas station. Will have plenty of time to think then. Haha.

  20. #40
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    Yup. Live in north Tampa work in south Tampa. Thought those shop photos looked like Thunder Bay. I want to see this thing out in the wild. hmu when its done and we can cruise around.

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