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So first to start off im a complete newb and just bought my first shovelhead, it's been running a little rough and at first I thought it was a carb problem, so I re jetted and tuned the carb and it still wasn't running good so I checked the points and it was way off, so I regapped them, then I was gonna do the static timing, so i got the compression stroke and removed the timing inspection hole screw, I was having my brother help me out and when I stepped into the other room to grab a light to see the marks and he had kicked the bike over a few times for God knows why, so now I see an x, my question is to get it back to where it needs to be do I keep kicking it over until I see the marks again? Or what else I'm not sure what to do, again total newb here and don't wanna fuck the bike up so id rather ask, please help thank you
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Last edited by Beastor187; 12-19-2017, 4:24 PM. -
Just start at the beginning again they will come back around...
Worry about the lines not anything else... Do you have a manual for your year bike... Your not going to break anything setting your timing...
By the way send your brother to town to get you a bottle cap.. He's of no help...Last edited by Tattooo; 12-19-2017, 5:32 PM. -
Asking questions is much better than not knowing.
I time my Shovels by gapping the points (make sure your air filter is installed in case of backfire on any engine you time) then rotating the points backing plate so the cover standoffs are in the middle of the slots in the backing plate. Try for start. If it backfires out the exhaust, your timing is retarded. If it backfires out the intake, your timing is too far advanced. When it fires up and idles decently you are very close. Don't let it idle a long time but do what you need to do. Leave the timing plug installed so you don't blow oil everywhere. If you think it may be flooded, pull plugs and check.
After it runs you can set using the marks until after enough experience you can do it by ear, but that will be much later.
Get a factory service manual and parts book.
Post what carb and what jets, because rejetting without knowing why may add to your woes. Cleaning of course is good, but when you say "cleaned" always specify if you tore it down and soaked it then installed a rebuild kit or just gave it a hopeful spray of carb cleaner.so I re jetted and tuned the carb
Ignition and carb problems often overlap. Post DETAILS to help us help you. You are learning like everyone does, but at least you have the internet!Comment
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Well first off thank you guys for your help I currently am working on a 1977 fxe I have an s&s super e, I re jetted it because the guy I bought it off of came from Colorado and from a 9000 foot elevation and I live near pomona ca, so I put a .68 main jet and a .295 intermediate jet, when I bought it off of him he said he had just cleaned out the carb and when I took it apart it looked clean so I just did the re jet, I have a factory service manual but it didn't say what to do when you pass the tdc mark and that's why I wanted to ask people who know shovels way more than I do if this is ok to do. I gapped the points to what the book told me already. But thank you both for helping out and you guys are right, the internet really helps outComment
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Let us know if you succeed as well as if ya need more info. Those jet numbers should work well enough so concentrate on the ignition.
None of us fell out da pussy with a wrench in our hand. Biking is a mentoring culture.Comment
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Ok so update I took the timing inspection screw off and kept kicking the motor over until I saw another line pop up although there was a letter f in front of it and I thought that was weird, so I put the screw back in and moved to the other side and I noticed that when I used my test light to adjust the points it didn't matter if I rotated it clockwise or counter clockwise, the test light was constantly staying on, so now is it possible I messed up even more than before ? I just want to get this thing on the road already, sorry for the newb-ness but gotta learn somehowComment
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No, you just have your test light in the wrong place. Here is how I do it, pull the pushrod keeper off from the front intake pushrod. remove the points cover. Remove the spark plugs, only cause it makes it easier to kick. You said that you have already set your points but if you need to set them now is the time. After this you need to slowly kick you engine over so that the front pushrod is at the bottom of its stroke. I use a clothes pin clamped to the push rod and it does two things for me ,1 it keeps the tube up and 2 it is a good tell tale for the pushrod position. When yo get the pushrod to the bottom of it's stroke your points cam should be the skinny side of the cam,if not you have to go around one more time. As your points gets close to the skinny side of the cam and your pushrod is on the bottom, you want to be looking for the TDC mark on the flywheel to be in the hole. Once you have that done, return to your points. Loosen the plate so that you can turn it with a small screwdrive, I like to use a zigzag paper or something comparable to stick between points contacts. You want to rotate the plate to the point where the zig zag can be pull from the points with just a little resistance, this is where if you were using a test light the light would be just starting to flicker. Lock her down, put everything back together and go for a ride and enjoy!!Comment
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yup what nmaineron said is it !Comment
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after 39 years of riding, this i=how i time mostly now
i pull rear plug push down on kicker till compression take my finger off the front plug hole or pull the plug.
move the rear wheel with bike in 4th gear or tap the kicker till i see the line / timing mark come up looking at motor i set it to the right of timing hole ( u still see the line }
i remove wire from the coil hook up test ling advance the flyweights and luck them move tll light goes out.
done..
thats just 1 way, i do it cause it takes me less than 5 min to gap and set up.
I take all the voodoo bullshit out of the equation, gap it with a feeler guage with slight drag and make a mental note that way when u put new points in you will set them the same way all the time.Comment
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Sorry for the late response it's been a crazy few last months haha but I took your advice with the zig zag and it saved me alot of time and struggle so thank you, but now the timing seems to be fine and the bike starts up but only with the enrichner on, if I don't have it on the bike wants to die on me so my guess is I have to clean/rebuild the super e, and check for intake leaks, anything else you think might be causing it?Comment
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Guess nobody does a timing light anymore .... ??
Every Shovel and Evo gets one of these if the owner allows me to nail one on ...
This E-Z timer tool bolts inside the primary cover. After installation, only inspection oval of outer primary has to be removed for accurate timing.
No eye full of oil ....Take my 45 and outrun em all ..Comment
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Got that shit right. I pull rear plug, i push down on kicker till i feel compression then i pull front plug, stick my finger in the timing hole untill i feel the line hit my fingernail, I keep the line to the right of timing hole. then set timing.
im very fast at it and spot on when checked with a light
make sure your points are correct and you are advanced, I unhook the coil wire and hook that end to a volt meter with continuity when the sound stops from adjusting till points open , your done.Comment
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i do, and only once and that is to make sure i have no lash in the gearsGuess nobody does a timing light anymore .... ??
Every Shovel and Evo gets one of these if the owner allows me to nail one on ...
This E-Z timer tool bolts inside the primary cover. After installation, only inspection oval of outer primary has to be removed for accurate timing.
No eye full of oil ....
thats why if you go to far you always back the wheels back and then go foward to take the lash out if there is anyComment
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