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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    8

    Default Shovelhead inner primary removal

    I just picked up this 80 fxe and pulled the outer primary since I noticed a hole in the outer primary cover to check it out and im stoked to find a nice 1.5" belt set up! I want to clean the look up and just run it open with no inner primary. Is it as simple as pulling the clutch assembly and unbolting the inner primary then putting the clutch assembly and belt back on?

    I noticed the prior owner ran a tensioner with the belt, is that even necessary? I am going to pull all the electric start stuff too since I am just going to kick the bike over. I am new to big twins. I appreciate any advice on this!

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  2. #2

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    Dec 2018
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    You will have to run some sort of motor to transmission plate to provide a mounting place for the idler. You cannot do away with it.

    Jim

  3. #3

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    Jul 2019
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    Thanks Jim, I am doing a bunch of research on this now and finding alot of good information on this site. Seems like I need a mainshaft bearing support plate and an adjustable trans mounting plate to keep the trans in line without the inner primary

  4. #4
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbd View Post
    Is it as simple as pulling the clutch assembly and unbolting the inner primary then putting the clutch assembly and belt back on?
    Nope it's not that simple............. Your just going to make it harder and your fixing to spend a bunch of money..... And create more work and maintenance in the future.....

  6. #6
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    To give more detail on why it's not simple... it is simple, if you have the right tools.

    To remove the inner primary you need to remove the front pulley and the clutch assembly.
    To remove the front pulley I use a "locking tool" - basically a flat piece of thick steel jammed betweent the front and rear pulley that locks them both together, allowing you to leverage the front pulley nut undone.

    To remove the clutch you first need to take the clutch plates out, then undo the nut that holds the basket - NOTE!! this nut is left hand thread, so clockwise to undo it.
    You'll find that when you try to undo it, the clutch basket will spin. You need to lock it in place.
    I use an old steel clutch plate with a big piece of steel welded to it that will make the clutch basket stop once the long steel piece touches the floor.
    then from here you have to pop the clutch basket out the mainshaft. this involves a thick steel plate with the clutch fingers pattern drilled on it, and big bolt in the middle. the science is you put the nuts on the fingers, then with the big bolt you do it up to "push" on the end of the main shaft, this will pull the clutch basket out by being stopped moving out by the nuts on the clutch fingers.

    There will be videos or something on google to show this. - difficult to explain without photos.

    Sorry, I cant find my photos of these tools, but I made them all instead of paying extortionate prices for JIMs tools.

    Once that's all out you add a mainshaft support plate on the gearbox.
    I dont use the middle support plate one from motor to gearbox.
    I use a transmission adjuster under the gearbox and just the mainshaft support place - I have found this has been enough for the last 20k miles.
    The transmisison adjuster underneath, besides making it easier to align the belt, also stops the gearbox from moving forward or backwards as won't allow it to slide on the transmisison mounting plate.

    it's not difficult if you have the tools, or can make the tools.
    Last edited by xJPx; 07-23-2019 at 7:26 AM.

  7. #7

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    Jul 2019
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    Thanks guys! xJPx that makes sense. I appreciate that information. This is my first big twin all my other bikes have been sportsters haha. Thanks again!

  8. #8
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    Save all the parts you remove. You may want them later on.

    Find out who made your drive then buy a replacement belt. If one pops on a road trip you're fucked unless you have one. We had to convert my wife's Shovel back to chain on a road trip because we didn't have time to wait for a belt. She never returned it to belt because fuck that.

    Get the factory service manual and parts book.
    The Carl Salter site should have scanned .pdfs for free download. You can never have too much tech data.
    Last edited by farmall; 07-23-2019 at 7:57 AM.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    Thanks farmall. I do plan on keeping the inner primary and out primary set up on the shelf. The prior owner even gave me the chain drive set up so I will have it all stored away. Good idea on a replacement belt. The prior owner also gave me the HD manual he got when he bought the bike!

  10. #10
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    Also, as a small note, if you going open belt, use a split pin rear chain.

    A lot easier, well, not easier, but one less thing to move (the rear wheel), when you have to change a belt on the side of the road if you can split the chain.
    Then you move the gearbox forward and slide belt over.

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