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Thread: S&S Cycle

  1. #101
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    thanks

  2. #102
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    S&S sells defective parts and will not honor them, My rocker was ahhh out of warranty so to say. with a FACTORY DEFECT.
    Oil passage drilled wrong , this does not matter to me where this part was bought when or where , the point is it should have been replaced.

    Now On to my lifter block that broke. knucklehead lifter blocks prior to 2010 some was incorrectly manufactured 5MM to short (.02")
    Yup mine to short and broke and I had to eat it to replace.
    then I stumble on to some people this had happen to also.

    The original S S staff are gone for the most part.
    I had called on this and got the usual s s bullshit.
    Thanks for taking such great care of me . really loved replacing new valves .......
    Great Job

  3. #103
    SIAMOLI
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustyDave View Post
    Since I moderate their Vintage Tech Forum I might be just a little biased! But every body I have dealt with has been topflight. And they will spare a little engineering time for stupid questions from somebody building a 1937 Indian Racer.
    Dusty
    . (Bring back Jen to the sales dept)
    5) And last but not least, catering to "Old Models" with Hi-Po parts that the Mo-Co has long since obsoleted

  4. #104
    mailiyaty
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    Quote Originally Posted by SIAMOLI View Post
    . (Bring back Jen to the sales dept)
    5) And last but not least, catering filezilla uc browser rufus to "Old Models" with Hi-Po parts that the Mo-Co has long since obsoleted
    Since I moderate their Vintage Tech Forum I might be just a little biased! But every body I have dealt with has been topflight. And they will spare a little engineering time for stupid questions from somebody building a 1937 Indian Racer.
    Last edited by mailiyaty; 10-10-2019 at 4:57 PM.

  5. #105
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    i personally have been disappointed by s&s i have had to replace jugs an pistons an such twice so far and am now probably gonna have to pull it down again and either put stock bak on my 99 dyna or find another company they have seized up on me twice an possibbly a third time i will know when i pull heads since it is ticking like a time bomb rite now

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy2bde View Post
    i personally have been disappointed by s&s i have had to replace jugs an pistons an such twice so far and am now probably gonna have to pull it down again and either put stock bak on my 99 dyna or find another company they have seized up on me twice an possibbly a third time i will know when i pull heads since it is ticking like a time bomb rite now
    Your not the only one having problems with S$S products ..............

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy2bde View Post
    i personally have been disappointed by s&s i have had to replace jugs an pistons an such twice so far and am now probably gonna have to pull it down again and either put stock bak on my 99 dyna or find another company they have seized up on me twice an possibbly a third time i will know when i pull heads since it is ticking like a time bomb rite now
    Details (the more the better) would help since seizures happen for reasons. Got clear, well lit pics of the previous damage (bore and piston) and measurements of bore and piston? (Bore measurements won't be dead accurate without torque plates but a dial bore gauge at your local automotive machine shop is much better than nothing.)

    You'll notice Dragstews measures clearances often and takes nothing for granted. Be like Drag. If S&S are shipping kits without sufficient bore clearance or other issues that can be measured and proven which may help you get correctly machined replacement parts. Measurements with torque plates would probably be necessary but for what parts cost (and to isolate the cause of the problem) I'd do the necessary to find the root cause.

    Don't forget oil squirters. Twinkies need those and they clog easily:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjm4D9tzfxA

    If I had a piston seize I'd perform an exhaustive autopsy before reassembling and double check the new parts where ever they come from. There is a REASON for every mechanical malfunction.
    Last edited by farmall; 01-29-2020 at 6:55 PM.

  8. #108
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    first off i have been riding an workin on bikes for a min or 2 i am no school trained tech not by a longshot i am like most here grew up around bikes an learned fron local guy that said i wont fix it but i will answer ?’ s so u dont fuk shit up.... meanwhile bak at the batcave...
    i have a 99 dyna stock tc and i wanted to boost it up a bit and got wit my local wrench who knows a bit more then me an he ordered an s&s sidewinder bolt in kit part # 0931-0740 to bump it up to bout 100” i followed all the break in directions and it wasnt on the bike more than a month mayb and it gave up this god awful squalin an squealing noise and a loud azz bang i pulled clutch an coasted to side of the road i got it refired .. luckly i was very close to home got it there an loaded on trailer and took it bak to my guy he looked at it an the piston was tore up as well as the wall of cyl he contacted s&s and told them wat happened they immediately said send it back an sent a new set as s&s already knew of an issue with some being resleeved instead of new cyl... ok fast forward to next break in period wich had the added part that if the bike sat for more then say 10 mins ie: a ferry ride across the cumberland river.. it needed to warm up again for bout 5 mins as the piston an the cyl were 2 diff metals meaning diff cool off/ heat up times so handle with kid gloves but lo an behold it happened again same thing on the trailer back to my guy and the same thing happened to cyl an piston he contacted s&s an at first they said it was my fault this happened not the fact that the cyl walls were rather thin so bak an forth it went so s&s decided for “ good customer relations” they would replace 1 more time .... and do i really have to tell u wat happened again and all 3 times it was under 500 mile break in .. now i personally will not buy another s&s bolt in nuthin an now i got sum pricey paperweights i will b puttin it bak to stock for now , and for those i hear out there about how my wrench mite suk , no .. no he does not he has a large clientele an a good rep as far as bike work goes... if you were to ask me .. imo i wouldn’t waste your hard earned $$ on this an if you do i wish you better luck an hope it works for you an you dont get my nitemare

  9. #109
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2F548603-BF68-4B89-8375-905A58D50F08.jpg 
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ID:	99810

  10. #110
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    Ok I'm having a hard time reading this^^^^^^^^ with no breaks in the sentences so I will ask a question.......

    Was all of the break in time done sitting still??????? Per break in directions..........

  11. #111
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	FE4B4AFB-42A5-4940-B993-9BB7382660DE.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	86.8 KB 
ID:	99811

  12. #112
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    no it was on the road and i aplogize for 1 long run

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy2bde View Post
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    That's caused from over heating or to tight of a fit or both..............

  14. #114
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    Posting all the info helps other readers so thanks for that. The more everyone knows (like the known issue with sleeving you just shared and readers who don't follow all the threads would not know about) the better.

    Do a teardown and inspection thread when you do the next repair. That situation totally sucks and the worn metal had to go somewhere. Dragstews and JB do many, many more engines than I do and may chime in with their opinions on the photosamd recommendations for different bore kits. Many TC performance builders (I ain't one) prefer to do their own boring because factory cylinders are often out of round. Apparently the only way to get an OEM who gives a shit is to buy a Jap bike or a much older Harley!

    Based on your info I did a quick search and you aren't alone. https://www.hdforums.com.au/Thread/671816/1 (The mechanic contending pistons "grab" bores was of course retarded but bottom line is the kit should have worked.)

    You might look into 95" kits instead. Five cubes ain't enough to tolerate unreliability.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy2bde View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It suffered a seizure, most likely happened in the first 50 miles ...

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    It suffered a seizure, most likely happened in the first 50 miles ...
    Is that damage distinctive to tight bore clearance only? Would bore photos be useful too? (Internet pics don't have much info on tight bore vs. lube vs. overheat.)

    What bore clearance range do you like on street Twinkies?
    Last edited by farmall; 01-30-2020 at 12:08 PM.

  17. #117
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    I'm not all that sure that I would be pointing a finger at the wall fit ...

    Think I would be more inclined to point at state of tune and break-in ...

    As far as wall fit: Tolerances vary from one piston mfg to the next, best to follow their recommendations ...

    .../// https://youtu.be/dRm6EJMMcik \\\...

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    This photo tells a story ...
    (Less than a thousand words .. )
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-30-2020 at 12:44 PM.

  18. #118
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    Tolerances vary from one piston mfg to the next, best to follow their recommendations ..
    That's a safe default but I like to ask because different builders may have different "secret sauces".

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post

    That's a safe default ..
    You betcha it is .... .... Gotta cover my ass .. !!

    .../// https://youtu.be/fVQWxBW0J7U \\\...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-30-2020 at 1:03 PM.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    It suffered a seizure, most likely happened in the first 50 miles ...

    Or 0 miles while it was sitting still before it was put on the road............

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