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'77 XS650 Chopper Build: My First Chop!
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Got to make a headlight mount tonight. It's not 100% done, still needs finish welding and to grind and clean up the edges, but it's almost there. Wasn't 100% sure if I was gonna keep it, because I wanted to tuck it back more to be less protruding, but it doesn't look like I'll really be able to do so, or it'll get in the way of the stem on the headlight and i won't be able to get the nut off. So I think I'll continue with this. If you're familiar with stock xs650 trees, you'll know that on the lower tree, theres 4 mounts/nub type things. The ones on mine were hacked up, broken off bolts in there, cut uneven, so I decided to just grind all of it off and start fresh. It looks a lot cleaner which I like. For making the mount, I took about a strip of 1/8 inch steel and hammered it to the curve of the tree, and drilled holes that lines up with existing ones on the tree. I heated up and bent 3/8inch round rod to match the angle of the forks to keep it looking clean, and just made a tab to mount the light to. Oh, and on that top tree I shaved off the stock speedometer mounts that were big and clunky. Looks really clean, I like it. Up next is the fake oil tank for my electronics. I got some 16ga steel to cut and weld up into a similar shape as a horseshoe oil tank. it's not gonna be curved because i have no way to do that, so cut and weld it is. Just gotta make sure my design is big enough for all my electronics.
The light is a repop hella/vw reverse light. When mounted it's slightly slanted, but it looks to be because of the light itself, not my mount. I don't know, I think Ill still run it. Also as you can see I cut off the steering lock. I'll finish grinding it off then weld up the hole. And I got a question: that worn-off white sticker on the neck that has information on there, can i scrape that off and paint over it? Is that legal? I'll make sure the VIN is visible.
(PS: I apologize for all my pictures being flipped, I'm not sure why it keeps doing that. If you know how to fix that let me know)Last edited by choppersbydavid; 04-22-2018, 10:48 AM.Comment
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Good to see you're keepin' with the curved rod theme for your headlight mount - matches the footpeg mounts. From the pics it looks like that headlight could still tuck back more,maybe mounted on the backside of that upright rod with the tab flipped around? Nice cleanup of those stock trees. Are the VIN numbers stamped into the neck? If so, the sticker should be able to go. Otherwise you'll need to keep it.
To bend your 16ga sheet for you whoreshoe tank, just find the middle if it, mark it and mark the ends of the radius, and bend it over something round - the radius you want, like a big piece of pipe - will just need a few small clamps to keep it tight to your form - or cut a wooden block the right shape with a bandsaw to make a form, stick the sheet in there and squeeze it to shape...look around at 'forming radius in sheetmetal' - I saw videos,articles,forums... you could make the tanks sides out of one piece and weld together at the back in the middle;one radius and two 90* bends with one weld. You gonna mount the battery in there too?If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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If I want to flip the light around like you suggest I’d have to bend another piece and cut it longer so it sticks out more. Maybe I’ll try it out. And yes, the VIN is stamped into the neck, so looks like I’m saying goodbye to that sticker. And good tip for creating a curve, I’ll look into that. And my battery won’t fit in there, just other things like fuses, relays, and switches. Stuff like that. I’ll make a battery tray that’ll rest on the lower frame rails in between the fender and down tube. Speaking of- anyone know of a small battery that I could use? Something smaller than stock size. I’m keeping my electric starter, so something that can handle that. And something affordable too. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!Comment
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Well, I gotta give it to you. Thanks for pushing me to make a new mount. It now has the look I wanted being recessed in, and looks a lot better. Really happy with it
Here's headlight mount 2.0:
And here's my vague design for the electronics tank. Not big at all, so I'm worried it won't fit all the parts I need it to. I had to make it angle in so steep like that so I can still get the air filters off
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Well, I gotta give it to you. Thanks for pushing me to make a new mount. It now has the look I wanted being recessed in, and looks a lot better. Really happy with it
Here's headlight mount 2.0:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]83490[/ATTACH]
And here's my vague design for the electronics tank. Not big at all, so I'm worried it won't fit all the parts I need it to. I had to make it angle in so steep like that so I can still get the air filters off
[ATTACH=CONFIG]83492[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]83493[/ATTACH]
For your box, make it deeper (taller?); follow the frame rail, just beneath it, and take it all the way back to the fender, even radius the back of it to match your fender for a nice tight parallel fit. The front will be a radius though right? Those filters can be squished abit for removal.
Here is an example of a Santee whorseshoe electric box on my old Zchop:
Last edited by TriNortchopz; 04-24-2018, 7:48 AM.If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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My problem with continuing the tank further back is that I won't have access to put anything past that tube with the seat mounts because the fender mount is in the way. Still looking into creating a radius. And I forgot to mention, but the sides of the tank will angle up to match the hardtail part of the frame so there's not a gap.Last edited by choppersbydavid; 04-24-2018, 7:30 AM.Comment
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My problem with continuing the tank further back is that I won't have access to put anything past that tube with the seat mounts because the fender mount is in the way. Still looking into creating a radius. And I forgot to mention, but the sides of the tank will angle up to match the hardtail part of the frame so there's not a gap.Last edited by TriNortchopz; 04-24-2018, 7:52 AM.If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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I suppose I could try it. I do want to make a cover for this so if I get rained on so I won't fry my electronics, so making a cover to go over all of that would be tricky. I agree I want to make it as big as I can, I just don't know the right way to go about it. Thank you for your input! I always appreciate itComment
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Yesterday I had some time and I made a license plate mount and rear turn signal mounts. The license plate holder is from Prism Supply, and I just wended steel in an L shape and the axle slides through. Pretty simple. Later I'll drill two big holes one on top of the other(roughly 2" holes) in the license plate holder to save weight and to make it look better. Turn signal mounts are pretty simple too, just some tabs. These rear signals are tiny(about the size of a quarter) so they'll be as subtle as possible, yet bright because they're leds. Front signals are just a 4" led strip with adhesive that I'll stick to the fork tubes under the tree so I can take the forks on and off. I wanted to make these signals as unnoticeable as possible so this is what I came up with. As for the electronics box, I will not be making it curve, it'll have flat edges. I'm doing this so it'll be easier to mount things to the inside walls. Also to give my switches a flat surface to mount to.
(excuse the rear wheel, the axle adjusters aren't set properly right now)
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...I made a license plate mount and rear turn signal mounts. The license plate holder is...Pretty simple. Turn signal mounts are pretty simple too, just some tabs. These rear signals are tiny(about the size of a quarter) so they'll be as subtle as possible, yet bright because they're leds. Front signals are just a 4" led strip...I wanted to make these signals as unnoticeable as possible so this is what I came up with...
(excuse the rear wheel, the axle adjusters aren't set properly right now)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]83750[/ATTACH]If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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Thank you! To be honest I couldn't think of a good place to put those led strips in the back and have them be useful. But it would probably look better, I agree, so I'll keep it in mind. As far as the fender goes, no it's not bent. Must be something with the picture/angle I took it at, and the wheel being out of line doesn't help. Will keep you updated!Comment
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Here is an example of an electric box being built for a XS650 chopper that may help with some ideas:
(pics are too large to post here)
Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...
Post by Prof ยป Fri Nov 02, 2012 11:04 pm
Last job to do for Steff is his electrics box. Once that is done I just have to finish off the welding and then send the chopper to be back to her master to complete the job. I think 1.6mm steel is the best balance between strength. lightness and ease of welding.
Chain is an issue with any electrics box planning. Chain bows out at speed and allowance needs to be made for its position when suspension is fully compressed. A few marks are made on the tyre allowing an extra half an inch to be safe... nothing much more agravating than a rattling chain...
...Working out angle of front outer edge after having made an aluminium base pattern. It sits on blocks of wood to give position...Steel base is marked out...Base cut out and bent up and now measuring for sides...Cardboard pattern made from measurements...A piece of pipe close to the required radius is easiest way of bending the reverse curve. Vice clamps the metal shile pulling on the side to get the bend. Takes up to 15 minutes of bending, straightening a little here and there and rebending in stages to get this curve just right...If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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Very impressed with that, it came out nice. The cardboard design I made up will more than likely be the one I'm going with. It's simple and seems to be big enough. Like always, I appreciate the help and new ideas. Also, I'll keep the rear mini turn signals. I can't find a spot that I like and will be visible for the led strips. The turn signals are so small anyways they're almost unnoticeable in person. Looking at a picture that's zoomed in on them makes them seem more in your face.Comment
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Got a lot done today. Made a battery holder out of 1/8 inch x 2inch flat bar. It's finish welded, just need to make/weld tabs that will mount it by the frame rails in between the wheel and downtube, also it'll have a strap to keep the battery down. Also I remade the rear brake stay. I didn't like how the heim joints were fully flexed out, and it just didn't look nice, so bent up and welded a new one(excuse the bad welds, these are not my finest). I like bending steel, it's just really annoying when you only have a propane torch. Oh well. Also the new brake stay works with my new brake switch. It's the deluxe one from lowbrow as recommended.I like it a lot. Also made a mount for my mini horn. It's tucked away and I love how subtle it is. Things I don't like so much, or that aren't "chopper" I like making them as secluded as possible to keep that chopper look authentic. I was also playing around to find a spot for my coils. I'm having a real hard time finding a spot that is out of the way and works, so this is the spot I think I like it in. Let me know: is this a good spot? will the spark plug wire be too long and have a voltage drop or something like that? Is it bad if the spark plug wires are so close to metal parts? Also on the chain side- it doesn't seem like the chain will touch it, it might just get dirty. Let me know what you guys think! Coming close to the end!
Last edited by choppersbydavid; 05-13-2018, 10:49 PM.Comment
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