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  1. #61

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    As far as the brakes, I suppose I'll have to run it through a vacuum bleeder. Hoping It'll be an easy fix.

    Another thing I need some help on is putting in new neck bearings. I bought new roller style ones but I've been having a real tough time finding a tutorial or an article to help me. I hear of people freezing the bearings to shrink them and also heating the neck to make them go in easier. I mostly just need the order for putting in the bearings/cups and whatever else. Any help would be appreciated.

    I finished the electronics box and lid and all the mounts, so I'm waiting for a warmer day to paint it(it's been 30's for the past 2 weeks) then i'll start throwing all the wiring back on. hoping to send the tank+fender out this week or next

  2. #62
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    Nice job man! I'd take the front brake line off the caliper until the fluid starts to drip out and then put it back on. That way you know there isn't a ton of air trapped in the line and then the master should start pumping fluid, because if you put it all together and put fluid in its gonna have a hard starting to make the fluid pump through the system because of all the air trapped below it. Do that and then continue the bleeding process. It's worked for me.

  3. #63
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    ..
    .real tough time finding a tutorial or an article to help me.
    Not hard; knock out the old races in the neck (work to keep them straight during removal and installation), inspect the bores, clean up lightly with a file if any high spots, shrinking new races in a baggie in the freezer will help, might just drop right in. Don't hit them with a steel hammer as they might chip. can also use a long chunk of threaded rod with washers/spacers to install to reduce the hammering...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    see install instruction below for a Brit bike - same thing:

    https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/blog/....bSuV3VE5.dpbs
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 02-21-2019 at 12:48 AM. Reason: cant spell chunck

  4. #64

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    Thank you for the suggestions! I'll have to mess around with the brakes more to get that issue settled. But first I'll go by that article for the new neck bearings. I was looking at xs650 specific because i wasn't sure if there was a difference. Thanks again!

  5. #65

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    I got to replacing the bearings last night, but of course ran into some issues. Everything came out just fine, but the new top race doesn't sit flush. it sticks out about 1/8 of an inch. I've beat the thing pretty hard with a dead blow and can't get it to go in further. Also, on the lower tree, on the base of the stem, there's this metal ring/spacer type thing that I think needs to come off, but i can't get it off. in combination of the race sitting too high, and the piece on the stem, i can't get the top of the threads of the stem to protrude to try to clamp it all together.

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    Here's what I'm talking about on the stem. the rubber piece was in that gap, I just slid it up. Anyone know what this is and how to take it off? it's really setting me back

  6. #66
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    ...the new top race doesn't sit flush. it sticks out about 1/8 of an inch. I've beat the thing pretty hard with a dead blow and can't get it to go in further.
    Did you measure the width of the new tapered cup (race) and the depth of the bore in the neck? Did you get the correct set of replacement bearings? Most likely the new tapered cup is wider than the depth, so will stick out - not a problem and common as original loose ball bearing races are narrower. I had this on several adaptations of springers and girders on custom frames - I'm okay with it as long as the roller bearing (cone) sits into the depth of the neck bore.
    Stock bearings for 1970 - 1983 XS 650 are: 25mm x 48mm x 15.2 Upper and 30x48x15 Lower.
    Did you measure yours? Got part numbers to look up the dimensions? Guessing the upper cup is fully seated in the bore - check it.

    ...on the lower tree, on the base of the stem, there's this metal ring/spacer type thing that I think needs to come off, but i can't get it off.
    Yes, it needs to come off as that is one-half of the stock bearing race set (other half you removed from the neck already - right?). Just use a metal chisel with a good taper and hammer it into the gap, gently, alongside the neck so as not to nick the bearing seat area on the stem. Move from side to side - don't cock it or it might get fucked. That race should be a light interference fit of 1 or 2 thou. Chill the neck and warm the bearing in an oven (@~120) to ease assembly...again ensuring the bearing seat area on the stem has no high spots or burrs before assembly..
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 02-22-2019 at 1:09 PM. Reason: number

  7. #67

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    so I finally was able to finish pressing in the bearings last night(I think). I chiseled the bottom race off the stem, then threw it in the freezer and heated up the bearing. I was able to get it on with a little bit of careful hammering, and it spins nicely after greasing it up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's as far as the bearing will go due to this lip on the base of the stem. the steering stops hit so i'm not too worried.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I was only able to get one of the lock nuts on there without compressing the bearings too hard. I made sure they spin easily and that there isn't really pressure on them. I think it should be fine with the one nut on because with the top tree on, it's not gonna come off. Ideally i'd like both nuts on there, but I guess the way the new bearing sit, the top on the stem just doesn't stick out enough.

    Let me know what you guys think, and thanks a bunch for your help and suggestions!

  8. #68
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    Where did you get the bearing set from? I am interested to know part numbers on cups and cones, and manufacturer info to share? Did you do any measurements? Wondering about the difference between the bottom cup width and bottom neck bore depth.

    Note difference in height of bearings:
    25mm x 48mm x 15.2 Upper
    and
    30mm x 48mm x 15 Lower
    http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=20951.0

    Not a big difference (1mm = ~040"; 0.03937"), so .2mm = ~ 8 thou
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 02-22-2019 at 1:13 PM. Reason: measurements from website

  9. #69
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    On the brakes and bleeding them. I have bought brand new calipers that would not bleed.
    The problem was that they sat so long in the storehouse that the pistons were stuck.
    I had to hook up compressed air to get the pistons out so I could but a little lube on them!
    Then they would beed easily.
    Watch your face any body, the pistons could cause you some harm!
    Last edited by Luky; 02-22-2019 at 1:05 PM.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by choppersbydavid View Post
    As far as the brakes, I suppose I'll have to run it through a vacuum bleeder. Hoping It'll be an easy fix.

    Another thing I need some help on is putting in new neck bearings. I bought new roller style ones but I've been having a real tough time finding a tutorial or an article to help me. I hear of people freezing the bearings to shrink them and also heating the neck to make them go in easier. I mostly just need the order for putting in the bearings/cups and whatever else. Any help would be appreciated.

    I finished the electronics box and lid and all the mounts, so I'm waiting for a warmer day to paint it(it's been 30's for the past 2 weeks) then i'll start throwing all the wiring back on. hoping to send the tank+fender out this week or next
    The vacuum bleeder is not going to help.

  11. #71

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    I got the bearings from tc bros. They're made by all balls racing

  12. #72
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    http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Gora...?sort=4&page=1

    Looking at these pics, the lower race seats deep in the neck...are you sure you got that lower stock bearing race out of the neck - they can be difficcult.

  13. #73

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    yes I got the original race out, and the new one sits just as deep as the one in the photo. You think it's fine the way I have it? maybe thats just how the tapered style bearings sit?

  14. #74
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    Never did the tapered on a xs650, but seems strange that both nuts fit on top before and now only one does. And the ones in the install photos have both top nuts on too.
    Is the upper bearing fully located on the stem bearing seat area?
    The bottom tree seems like it should sit closer to the neck. BTW, here is a link to a thread with those pics, starting at Post #15: http://www.xs650.com/threads/which-y...ead-tube.3756/

    Hey, you still got the old races and balls? Reassemble them on the bench and share the thickness of them - we know the overall width of the tapered sets (15mm & 15.2mm), but not stock set.

    one more thing is the different length of stems between years; 70-73 are short, 74-83 are longer; do you know if that is an earlier front end?
    Read the top collared nuts are concave too, not flat.

  15. #75

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    I'll have to check to see if I put the upper/lower bearings on the wrong side. I didn't see anywhere on the packaging specifying that theres a specific side, maybe only for the ones that guy is using?. As far as I know I have a stock 77 front end, but I can't confirm it. But from those pictures, my lower bearing sits the same.

  16. #76

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    a minor update: haven't been working on the bike that much. But I finally bought a vacuum bleeder and solved the front brake issue. Worked like a charm. Not sure why that worked and it didn't work when I was pumping the lever for an hour and a half, but I'm happy that I can cross it off the list. Hoping to start putting all the wiring back on soon. My goal is to have the bike done by the end of March, because i need to ride it asap. Feel free to nudge me to get er done!

  17. #77
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  18. #78
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  19. #79

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    Damn. Gonna be nice to ride my bike for the first time.

    I'm going to be rebuilding the forks. I bought the seals, boots, etc. a while ago, and just haven't gotten to it yet. while I have them apart, I'm going to polish the legs a little more. It's not gonna be mirror finish at all, but probably very fine grit sandpaper. All I have to do is buy fork oil and I'll be good to go. One thing I've been debating, is if I should put fork gaiters on. I like them, but not sure if i wanna run them. Let me know what you think.

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    Here's a picture(not my bike) for reference as to how they would look

  20. #80

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    another little update:
    I went ahead and ground down some of the welds on the sissy bar the best I could. Even using the skinniest sanding bit with a dremel, It was tough to get into those tight corners/nooks. then I went ahead and gave it a little polish with the wire wheel. It's hard to see how it came out in the pictures, but I wanted a brushed/polished look. I can't afford chrome(also not even sure if I wanted to chrome this) so this is what I came up with. I'm debating putting a coat of matte or satin clear on it just so it doesn't rust. I plan on doing the same to the headlight mount. I just didn't want to paint everything black, and this is much better than raw metal.

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