CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
Page 3 of 6 First 12345 ... Last
  1. #41
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by choppersbydavid View Post
    ...I made a license plate mount and rear turn signal mounts. The license plate holder is...Pretty simple. Turn signal mounts are pretty simple too, just some tabs. These rear signals are tiny(about the size of a quarter) so they'll be as subtle as possible, yet bright because they're leds. Front signals are just a 4" led strip...I wanted to make these signals as unnoticeable as possible so this is what I came up with...
    (excuse the rear wheel, the axle adjusters aren't set properly right now)

    Attachment 83750
    Good to see some progress! Those led strips definitely have that "unnoticeable look". Any reason you didn't use 'em at the back too? I'm thinking a narrow thin strip of metal welded flush with the od of the sissybar, kinda on the inside (and under) that outward bent section could be a flat place to mount 'em. You could even mount those l'il leds inside the bent section, kinda upright (top angled in), with the mount at the bottom. Then the wiring could be run under the fender and not show. Gotta ask - is that fender twisted to the left? It doesn't look square, or parallel with the hardtail crossbar in front of the fender.
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 05-05-2018 at 12:30 AM. Reason: finished a sentence.

  2. #42

    Default

    Thank you! To be honest I couldn't think of a good place to put those led strips in the back and have them be useful. But it would probably look better, I agree, so I'll keep it in mind. As far as the fender goes, no it's not bent. Must be something with the picture/angle I took it at, and the wheel being out of line doesn't help. Will keep you updated!

  3. #43
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by choppersbydavid View Post
    Pretty simple...As for the electronics box, I will not be making it curve, it'll have flat edges. I'm doing this so it'll be easier to mount things to the inside walls. Also to give my switches a flat surface to mount to.

    Here is an example of an electric box being built for a XS650 chopper that may help with some ideas:
    (pics are too large to post here)
    http://www.choppersaustralia.com/for...hp?f=60&t=7153

    Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

    Post by Prof Fri Nov 02, 2012 11:04 pm
    Last job to do for Steff is his electrics box. Once that is done I just have to finish off the welding and then send the chopper to be back to her master to complete the job. I think 1.6mm steel is the best balance between strength. lightness and ease of welding.

    Chain is an issue with any electrics box planning. Chain bows out at speed and allowance needs to be made for its position when suspension is fully compressed. A few marks are made on the tyre allowing an extra half an inch to be safe... nothing much more agravating than a rattling chain...


    ...Working out angle of front outer edge after having made an aluminium base pattern. It sits on blocks of wood to give position...Steel base is marked out...Base cut out and bent up and now measuring for sides...Cardboard pattern made from measurements...A piece of pipe close to the required radius is easiest way of bending the reverse curve. Vice clamps the metal shile pulling on the side to get the bend. Takes up to 15 minutes of bending, straightening a little here and there and rebending in stages to get this curve just right...

  4. #44

    Default

    Very impressed with that, it came out nice. The cardboard design I made up will more than likely be the one I'm going with. It's simple and seems to be big enough. Like always, I appreciate the help and new ideas. Also, I'll keep the rear mini turn signals. I can't find a spot that I like and will be visible for the led strips. The turn signals are so small anyways they're almost unnoticeable in person. Looking at a picture that's zoomed in on them makes them seem more in your face.

  5. #45

    Default

    Got a lot done today. Made a battery holder out of 1/8 inch x 2inch flat bar. It's finish welded, just need to make/weld tabs that will mount it by the frame rails in between the wheel and downtube, also it'll have a strap to keep the battery down. Also I remade the rear brake stay. I didn't like how the heim joints were fully flexed out, and it just didn't look nice, so bent up and welded a new one(excuse the bad welds, these are not my finest). I like bending steel, it's just really annoying when you only have a propane torch. Oh well. Also the new brake stay works with my new brake switch. It's the deluxe one from lowbrow as recommended.I like it a lot. Also made a mount for my mini horn. It's tucked away and I love how subtle it is. Things I don't like so much, or that aren't "chopper" I like making them as secluded as possible to keep that chopper look authentic. I was also playing around to find a spot for my coils. I'm having a real hard time finding a spot that is out of the way and works, so this is the spot I think I like it in. Let me know: is this a good spot? will the spark plug wire be too long and have a voltage drop or something like that? Is it bad if the spark plug wires are so close to metal parts? Also on the chain side- it doesn't seem like the chain will touch it, it might just get dirty. Let me know what you guys think! Coming close to the end!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0723.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	299.8 KB 
ID:	83977

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0724.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	296.3 KB 
ID:	83978

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0866.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	293.3 KB 
ID:	83979

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0867.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	294.7 KB 
ID:	83980

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0868.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	291.7 KB 
ID:	83981
    Last edited by choppersbydavid; 05-13-2018 at 10:49 PM.

  6. #46

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by choppersbydavid View Post
    Got a lot done today. Made a battery holder out of 1/8 inch x 2inch flat bar. It's finish welded, just need to make/weld tabs that will mount it by the frame rails in between the wheel and downtube, also it'll have a strap to keep the battery down. Also I remade the rear brake stay. I didn't like how the heim joints were fully flexed out, and it just didn't look nice, so bent up and welded a new one. I like bending steel, it's just really annoying when you only have a propane torch. Oh well. Also the new brake stay works with my new brake switch. It's the deluxe one from lowbrow as recommended.I like it a lot. Also made a mount for my mini horn. It's tucked away and I love how subtle it is. Things I don't like so much, or that aren't "chopper" I like making them as secluded as possible to keep that chopper look authentic. I was also playing around to find a spot for my coils. I'm having a real hard time finding a spot that is out of the way and works, so this is the spot I think I like it in. Let me know: is this a good spot? will the spark plug wire be too long and have a voltage drop od something like that? Is it bad if the spark plug wires are so close to metal parts? Also on the chain side- it doesn't seem like the chain will touch it, it might just get dirty. Let me know what you guys think! Coming close to the end!

    Pictures cont:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0876.JPG 
Views:	18 
Size:	278.6 KB 
ID:	83982

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0870.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	301.7 KB 
ID:	83983

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0873.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	293.0 KB 
ID:	83984

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0874.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	298.8 KB 
ID:	83985

  7. #47
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Good to some more custom fab and progress. Nice little brake stay rod, staying with the curved rod theme - it looks like the frame tab mounting bolt is not parallel with the the bolt on the brake plate(pic #4 of the first 5) - it must just be the way the tab is welded to the frame; make sure that tab is welded on there good. What about mounting that brake light switch up near the return spring? may just need another tab and a shorter pull spring - then the wiring will be just right below your electric box - less wires runnin' to the back. Once you get that electric box done, you could mount the horn underneath it -outta sight man! again,less wire.
    Coils, no,please not there. How about just behind and on each side of the upright frame center seat post ("downtube")? You could cut two new upper rear engine mounting plates(pic #3 of second set of 5) with the back of the plates extended about an inch or so past the upright centre frame post, and drill the coil mounting holes so they mount vertical just behind the rear upright center frame post. Should have clearance above the battery and in front of the yet-to-be fabricated electric box. Another option could be kinda close to where they are now, but 90* to how you have them now - you could run a flat plate across between the frame side rails,behind the round frame cross member, below the fender mount post (or two pieces on each side to tie in the fender mount post) and mount coils under the plate (behind back of electric box), with the bottoms together in the center (or side by side if there is space between the fender and the electric box)- and a bonus: that flat plate would also be a frame gusset!
    And of course another option is to replace the two single-lead coils with a one new dual-lead coil...
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	17-6903.jpg 
Views:	268 
Size:	5.8 KB 
ID:	83986

    While lookin' around,I found this,which may be of interest:
    XS 650 Tech Tips
    "These tips are gleaned from personal experience, readers contributions and the XS650 List Server."
    http://www.650central.com/tech/tips.htm

    Keep up the good work - chop on!
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 05-14-2018 at 1:13 AM. Reason: added link to tech tips

  8. #48

    Default

    Thanks for your feedback! Brake stay mount is still tacked in for now, and I prefer the brake switch there so it's out of the way. The wire from the brake light has to go to it anyways. As far as the coils-is there a practical issue as to why they can't be where they are now? Where you were saying by the rear motor mount, it will almost definitely have interference issues with the battery. That place was my initial idea. And i think it will hit the left side engine cover/chain. And I'm mounting my regulator/rectifier on the back of the electronics box, so coils won't fit there. I agree where they are now isn't the prettiest. The two lead coil may be a better option, which coil is that/where can I find one? I'll look into that. and as for as the horn goes, under the electronics box may work yeah, just have to check if I'll have issues with it hitting the battery. I may want it up front though to direct the sound towards the dumbass in front of me. we'll see. Thanks again! If anyone else has ideas please feel free to give me suggestions, I love hearing different opinions.

    And thanks for sharing those tech tips, will defiantly use some of those.

  9. #49

    Default

    Started making the electronics box out of 16ga steel. Also think I found a place to mount the coils. By moving the battery back I can mount the coils to the upright frame post. I cut up and narrowed the original coil mount that was welded by the neck gusset area. It clears the chain and seems to not have any interference issues. Only tacked up for now to see if it works, and zip-tied in place.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0892.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	297.9 KB 
ID:	84093

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0893.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	307.4 KB 
ID:	84094

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0916.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	293.0 KB 
ID:	84095

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0917.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	291.6 KB 
ID:	84096

  10. #50

    Default

    Battery box is 90% finished. It's mounted with two tabs (slightly off center to give room for the chain). All I need is a rubber battery strap to go across the top to hold it in place. Coil mount is done, but will weld on later bc theres no room and id have to take half the bike apart. Finished mounts for the electronics box for now. Front mount will either have to be reinforced or remade out of thicker metal. It flexes way too much right now. Hoping that by next week I can start wiring.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0920.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	305.5 KB 
ID:	84110

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0924.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	297.2 KB 
ID:	84111

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0925.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	304.8 KB 
ID:	84112

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0928.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	301.8 KB 
ID:	84113

  11. #51
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Good choppin' happenin'.
    That battery looks heavy for just two straps - maybe a heavy bracket across the back to mount to the lower crosstube? For the front of the electric box, how about a piece of angle welded across in front of the box, just below the top of the rails, then filling in the whole under-seat area, around the box and between the rails, with steel plate? you could mount a bolt in the front of the box under the angle cross piece.
    What about a box for the coils?
    You mentioned the regulator will be mounted on the back of the box - is it a finned unit? If so, it should be in the breeze... And about your horn, the pipes will probably be louder than that, and if there is an issue, you can use the human horn - just fuckin' yell at 'em. Chop on!

  12. #52

    Default

    The tabs for the battery on the sides are made out of 1/8 inch, and are plenty strong. I used m8 bolts to secure them. I remade the front tab for the electronics box out of 1/8 inch and added a small gusset underneath. I had trouble making a lid for the electronics box, so I'm taking a break from that and I'll come back to it later. I'm reusing the original reg and rec until I can upgrade to the modern style single unit(finned). It's $100 and I've already went slightly over budget. Original ones will work for now. Mounting them outside so they can cool down and not create an oven in the box. I'm working on wiring right now, my least favorite part. Wiring is not my strong suit so I've been doing tons of research for diagrams, and recruited the help of my dad who knows wiring through and through. I'm really hoping I can get this running soon.

  13. #53
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Here is a link with some charging system testing info that may be helpful:

    techtips #2: the xs650 charging system

    Sadly, the XS650 suffers from not having a permanent magnet charging system, so this is a helpful step-by-step way to find where the problems are. Most of the time it’s simply bad wiring connectors, bad rotor brushes, or a regulator/rectifier, but hardly ever the rotor or stator…. except on one of my bikes it was the rotor, because it just had to be difficult.

    1. Battery Test
    2. Charging Test
    3. Magnetic Field Test
    4. Rotor Power Test
    5. More Rotor Testing
    6. Stator Test
    7. More Stator Tests
    and finally,
    8. The My Bike Hates Me Test
    If everything seems in order, but you still don’t get a good charge at the battery, check to see if you see if you have any unnecessary chrome or leather tassels on your bike. If you find any of these things, it might be that your XS650 now hates you and doesn’t want to be seen in public.
    *Other things that might cause this are:
    1. Ape hangers over 12 inches high
    2. Flames
    3. Skulls
    4. Flames and Skulls!
    5. “Maltese” crosses
    6. No front brake (Your bike loves you and does not want you to die…. yet.)
    7. Sissy bars
    8. King & queen seats
    9. Any inappropriate bling
    10. Sportster gas tanks.

    http://www.bikermetric.com/techtips-...arging-system/


    Wiring is not that difficult if you break it down, section by section. A bit more info:

    Basic Wiring diagramme...
    This thread has been set up in response to requests for chopper wiring information.
    http://www.choppersaustralia.com/for...hp?f=50&t=1163

    See more electrical threads here:
    Wiring your chopper...
    http://www.choppersaustralia.com/for...forum.php?f=50

    Good luck, chop on!
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 06-05-2018 at 8:00 AM. Reason: spacing

  14. #54
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by choppersbydavid View Post
    The tabs for the battery on the sides are made out of 1/8 inch, and are plenty strong. I used m8 bolts to secure them. I remade the front tab for the electronics box out of 1/8 inch and added a small gusset underneath. I had trouble making a lid for the electronics box, so I'm taking a break from that and I'll come back to it later. I'm reusing the original reg and rec until I can upgrade to the modern style single unit(finned). It's $100 and I've already went slightly over budget. Original ones will work for now. Mounting them outside so they can cool down and not create an oven in the box. I'm working on wiring right now, my least favorite part. Wiring is not my strong suit so I've been doing tons of research for diagrams, and recruited the help of my dad who knows wiring through and through. I'm really hoping I can get this running soon.
    Hey, you still around? any update - Did you get it runnin'?

  15. #55

    Default

    Hi everyone, sorry for the long overdue update. I joined the Marine Corps over the summer and was away for training, but I'm back now and back to working on the bike. Not sure where I left off here, but before I left for boot camp I wired the bike and got it running! I then took it apart to paint the frame and other parts and right now I've been putting it back together and finishing up a few things. I'm excited to finally ride my chopper come spring, and I have no doubt that I'll finish it by then. But some problems I ran into that i need some advice on: My front disc brakes don't work. It's a brand new mini master cylinder, so thats not the issue. There has to be a leak somewhere because I get no pressure when trying to bleed it. I don't know if it's the line or the caliper itself. I have those copper washers around the banjo bolts in case you were thinking that. Other than that, I'm lost on how to identify the leak.

    Anyways here's the bike as it sits now(still putting it back together)

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3433.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	305.0 KB 
ID:	91035

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3434.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	304.4 KB 
ID:	91036

    Tank is primed now, but i'll be sending that and the fender out to get painted soon. The painter/motorcycle wizard at my shop is hooking me up with a free paint job, just gotta buy the materials. It's real nice of him, and he's a good painter too so don't worry about it coming out like crap

    Hope you guys like! As always, feel free to comment any feedback

  16. #56
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    8,447

    Default

    Looks like I like 'em, simple and clean.

    Treat any connection in your braking system as a bleed point.
    Air rises so I crack 'em loose at the master first. (Put a towel on top of a trashbag to catch the drippings. The trash bag prevents fluid in the towel from making it through.)

    Anti-seize your bleed nipples and brake fitting threads. It helps seal nipples when opened and prevents the pain ot twisting your nipples off.

    Vacuum bleeders work well and cheap is fine. This style is older than dirt: https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-69328.html

    Some Tygon plastic tubing to fit your nipples is worth owning. You can do useful stuff like connecting it to a nipple, submerging the other end in a jar of brake fluid, and pumping. No air can get sucked back in that way.

  17. #57
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    May 2018
    Posts
    866

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by choppersbydavid View Post
    My problem with continuing the tank further back is that I won't have access to put anything past that tube with the seat mounts because the fender mount is in the way. Still looking into creating a radius. And I forgot to mention, but the sides of the tank will angle up to match the hardtail part of the frame so there's not a gap.
    Instead of using a grinding wheel try using a flap disc with 80 or 100 grit.
    You will get a much nicer finish without the heavy grinder grooves.

  18. #58
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    8,447

    Default

    Indeed. Flap discs are wonderful things.

  19. #59
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    65

    Default

    Great work young man.
    Love your enthusiasm!

  20. #60
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Looks great.
    ...new mini master cylinder, so thats not the issue...
    Can't always be sure of anything; make sure you check that too.

Share This



Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in