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  1. #1

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    Default Want to build a ironhead bobber

    I want to build a ironhead bobber 1977-1979 are the years i want . ive been reading but cant really find the answers i want. The three questions i cant find are what is the best weld on hardtail for these years, ik 79 was a new frame so that will need a different hardtail then the 77-78. My other question is do i need to buy a custom weld on hardtail frame if i buy a 77-78 because i want to get rid of the drum brake and but a sprocket like the 79 year. And my final question is an open primary possible on an ironhead?

  2. #2
    rokytnji
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    And my final question is an open primary possible on an ironhead?
    Yeah. Belt drive primary clutch hub and motor pully with dry clutches is possible. But you gotta plug up the holes going into the tranny box and drill and tap a filler hole and pipe plug it and vent it for the tranny oil which is separate from engine oil. Just easier to keep stock in my opinion. But it is your show.

    I'd start with a proper aftermarket hardtail and buy something like this for the engine to put in it.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weld-On-Fra...xYm-Wb&vxp=mtr

    https://corpuschristi.craigslist.org...323975767.html

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Sports...FZwtLt&vxp=mtr
    Last edited by rokytnji; 10-18-2017 at 6:36 AM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kmo13 View Post
    I want to build a ironhead bobber 1977-1979 are the years i want . ive been reading but cant really find the answers i want. The three questions i cant find are what is the best weld on hardtail for these years, ik 79 was a new frame so that will need a different hardtail then the 77-78. My other question is do i need to buy a custom weld on hardtail frame if i buy a 77-78 because i want to get rid of the drum brake and but a sprocket like the 79 year. And my final question is an open primary possible on an ironhead?
    Any reason why you want those years? 79 is generally considered a hodge podge of ironhead parts and will be hard to find things, and there really isn't anything special to the other years. You can always just get a hardtail for earlier years and modify them for a disc and sprocket setup, its been done a hundred times before and will be done a hundred times again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Benny74 View Post
    Any reason why you want those years? 79 is generally considered a hodge podge of ironhead parts and will be hard to find things, and there really isn't anything special to the other years. You can always just get a hardtail for earlier years and modify them for a disc and sprocket setup, its been done a hundred times before and will be done a hundred times again.
    Yes sir 79 is an odd year it has a lot on one year only stuff on it.......

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Benny74 View Post
    Any reason why you want those years? 79 is generally considered a hodge podge of ironhead parts and will be hard to find things, and there really isn't anything special to the other years. You can always just get a hardtail for earlier years and
    modify them for a disc and sprocket setup, its been done a hundred times before and will be done a hundred times again.

    I want 1977-1979 Because I don’t want a right side shift because they’re to much money and if they converted it to to a left side shift they have a lot of problems and just look ugly, and I want a kick only bike no electronic start

  6. #6
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    I currently own a 77 and owned a 79 rigid (vtwin weld on hardtail).

    I don’t know why people plague the 79 Sportster so much as a “bastard year”. It really isnt that much different than say a 77 Ironhead or an 81.

    79 has a 1 year only sprocket cover for the master cylinder and rear exhaust pipe. OK... no big deal. If you dont like it change it to an 80 style cover and run regular style pipes.

    15/16” steering neck size

    New style frame.... carried into 1981.

    Transmission sprocket splines differ between early and late 79s.

    Other than that, everything is same old Ironhead...

    Contact David Bird. I called him about hardtailing my 77’ and getting rid of the drum setup. He says you can use his hardtail and 79’ axle plates which allows you to run a disk setup.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kmo13 View Post
    I want 1977-1979 Because I don’t want a right side shift because they’re to much money and if they converted it to to a left side shift they have a lot of problems and just look ugly, and I want a kick only bike no electronic start
    I'm not sure where you're looking at seeing them too expensive. I'm selling my engine, frame and title from my 1974 for $900. Engine was running when I pulled it like 2 weeks ago. Also to have a kick only bike you just have to pull out the starter, mine was kick only. Regardless you're going to have a starter hump and block off plate. But your reasons are your reasons.

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    [QUOTE=Benny74;774508]Any reason why you want those years? ...

    He is 19 y.o.
    Someone told him it's what he wants.

  9. #9

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    I want to buy a bike all together versus buying it in all pieces only because I want to ride it for a little before I bob just Incase anything go wrong, that’s why right side shift years are to much because I want to buy a whole bike. know one told me what years to get lol I just read and trying to learn the Ironhead by myself and I feel like those are the Best years in my opinion

  10. #10
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    is this your first bike/first build? do you have any mechanical experience?

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobberadam View Post
    is this your first bike/first build? do you have any mechanical experience?
    It will be my second bike, and yes I have a little mechanical experience, plus like the other guy said I’m 19 so my dad will help me if needed and he has a lot of mechanical experience

  12. #12
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    Have you heard of the very reliable evo sportster?

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalheart28 View Post
    Have you heard of the very reliable evo sportster?
    Yes but I already have an evo so I wanna change it up

  14. #14
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    Ledsled has the best looking weld on hardtail on the market ... IMO



    Here is the one that fits all Ironhead & Evo frames up to 2003 .... $490 ... Be a four week wait till you get one in your sweaty hands upon placing the order ...



    Available for stock 130/150, 180/200, and 240/250 size tires with your choice of 2" or 4" stretch.
    They are very easy to install. The kit includes hardtail, axle and adjusters. You can do this one in your living room with a saw and welder.
    We offer the offset sprockets for the 180/200 and the 240/250 kits.
    Ship your frame to us and we will install the kit for 75.00.

    ** Please tell us the bike year.
    ** If running a stock tire with a 2" stretch, please be sure to tell us if you intend to keep a belt. It will require a longer 136 tooth.
    ** Please tell us if you are running a 150 tire.

    Now if you want to get a little trick they also offers a drop seat weld on...



    Now offering our hardtails in a dropseat design for Sportsters up to 2003.
    The dropseat lowers your seat position 4 inches... just enough to look good but not ridiculous..
    This kit is available with a 4" stretch and for the stock, 180/200 and 240/250 rear tire.
    A complete kit is also available for this hardtail. This will require converting from belt to a chain, but we offer a kit for that!

    Need a brake tab? Add it to your order!
    Last edited by Dragstews; 10-18-2017 at 2:46 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kmo13 View Post
    I want to buy a bike all together versus buying it in all pieces only because I want to ride it for a little before I bob just Incase anything go wrong, that’s why right side shift years are to much because I want to buy a whole bike. know one told me what years to get lol I just read and trying to learn the Ironhead by myself and I feel like those are the Best years in my opinion
    You really shouldn't pay too much for an ironhead regardless of the year, as long as its after 1972-ish. The earlier years seem to be a little more pricy, but all in all if this is a bike you're looking to do some work on and refine your skills I would keep your top dollar around $2000 for a well running, riding bike.

    You seem to be headed in a good direction so far, just make sure you ask questions along the way so you don't end up fudging something beyond repair. A good attitude goes a long way on this forum, and there is a ton of knowledge here.

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