74 ironhead XLCH 1000 questions

[Dylan1493]

1. An i run it without the front sprocket cover without any issues
2. any ideas on what kind of power increase i would get with Andrews pb+ cams and .040 over pistons
3. What if any benefits or issues can i expect with going over to a 6 inch stretched bolt/weld on rigid frame kit
4. How can i build a suicide shift for the stock right side but keep the hand cluch

Any other advice or suggestions for performance and handling mods would be awesome.
Thanks guys

[Guest]

if you have a kick start on it you need the sprocket cover as a support for the kick shaft,
There is no such thing as a ''Suicide Shift'', only a Suicide Clutch,
If you mean a Hand shift or Jockey shift it can be done but you will need to fabricate all the parts yourself.

[Benny74]

1. An i run it without the front sprocket cover without any issues
2. any ideas on what kind of power increase i would get with Andrews pb+ cams and .040 over pistons
3. What if any benefits or issues can i expect with going over to a 6 inch stretched bolt/weld on rigid frame kit
4. How can i build a suicide shift for the stock right side but keep the hand cluch

Any other advice or suggestions for performance and handling mods would be awesome.
Thanks guys

1. I would not ditch the sprocket cover, it helps support your kicker shaft, without that extra support you can pretty much kiss the kicker shaft, your knee and probably your clutch hub goodbye.
2. As with cams, any increase in lift is going to give you a bit more power. I cant say exactly how much, but I know the PB cams aren't much more than stock P Cams, as for the PB+ I would assume they're a bit more than regular PB's. SO... you will get more horsepower.
Any reason as to why you want to go .040 over? Don't think of boring your cylinders as a way to get horsepower, the displacement you gain from boring is very minimal and is usually used to clean up cylinder walls so that you don't get blowby from scorched walls. If you're doing this just to gain horsepower I would nix that idea.
3. Benefits: More leg room
Issues: You're going to need a longer chain and a longer brake rod.
4. I would keep the foot shift personally. To keep a hand clutch and right side jockey shift you're going to need to constantly be taking your hand off the throttle to shift. Plus I think this is just a lazy, cheap way of trying to do a hand shift.

If you want performance out of an ironhead and want to keep it on the cheap heres my suggestion. Make sure you have good compression in your cylinders. You have an xlch, so being a kick only you don't want to up the compression so much that you can't kick it, ironheads are already hard enough. PB+ cams are a good idea, just make sure your heads are set up for it, you might as well take em off and clean them up too. A good ignition system will also be a big upgrade.

[farmall]

1 - No, as previously discussed.

2 - Some but the main reason to upgrade cams is because the old cams and tappet rollers (they age and die together) are shot. Never bore more than your machinist (not you unless you are one!) says is necessary to clean up wear, scoring and taper. I avoid high compression and let cams take care of cylinder filling. High static compression on ancient street Harleys just makes them harder to start and more prone to detonation.

3 - Benefits are appearance only, which is the point. Stock ride is horrible anyway because of suspension/frame geometry so a hardtail with a good seat isn't much or any downgrade. If the result doesn't sit too low you won't lose ground clearance. Figure the results for any choice before spending money so you get what you want.

4 - Anything not a foot shifter/hand clutch is functionally retarded silly poser shit when inflicted on a motorcycle that's not originally from that era unless the rider is handicapped and requires something different. Dumbest fad ever unless you don't really want to ride the motorcycle.

For us to best help you, tell us what you actually have and where you want to go with it.

Got a happily running engine or a basket case or something in-between? Since you are talking cams and a bore job I suspect the engine needs work.

Automobile machinists are not necessarily motorcycle machinists. Mine knows his shit and I know he knows it after working with him. Bubba down at the auto parts store might not. Freight is cheaper than suffering so if you don't know your machinist is experienced with old Harleys I suggest finding one who is.

Most Harley dealers outsource their machine work because they don't do enough of it to justify the equipment. You can ask yours who they use.

What is your projected budget? That matters. A lot.

I suggest posting brightly lit, clear pics of any parts you have questions about.

[Tattooo]

4 - Anything not a foot shifter/hand clutch is functionally retarded silly poser shit when inflicted on a motorcycle that's not originally from that era unless the rider is handicapped and requires something different. Dumbest fad ever unless you don't really want to ride the motorcycle.

Yep what he said...... I couldn't have said it any better myself............

[Dragstews]

[Dylan1493]

This is where im at. I want to go for a rat look but have a very fast bike (for an ironhead anyway)

It run good for the most part but needs new gaskets and seals, drive chain and some trans and clutch work. it all works just temperamental as hell at times

[Tattooo]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]78792[/ATTACH]
This is where im at. I want to go for a rat look

Congrats you have achieved your goal..... Be sure and buy a Harley manual before you start doing your maintenance work... I wouldn't wait to long before you do it.....

[Dylan1493]

not yet still needs a rigid frame and a springer on it . as for a manual i have one from Haynes. I'm just very short on money and tools

[Dylan1493]

the engine bogs down when you get on the throttle in 4th. the gap in range between 3rd and 4th it very wide and 1st and 2nd gears are very narrow in range. head gasket on the rear jug leaks as do the rocker arm shaft covers and the primary cover. All the drain plugs leak to. tightened everything down but no luck. guess i just have to replace the gaskets and seals.

I just figured if i'm going to replace some of them i might as well do them all. planning an doing new stem and wheel bearings and rebuild the kick-start (slips sometimes)

[farmall]

the engine bogs down when you get on the throttle in 4th. the gap in range between 3rd and 4th it very wide and 1st and 2nd gears are very narrow in range. head gasket on the rear jug leaks as do the rocker arm shaft covers and the primary cover. All the drain plugs leak to. tightened everything down but no luck. guess i just have to replace the gaskets and seals.

I just figured if i'm going to replace some of them i might as well do them all. planning an doing new stem and wheel bearings and rebuild the kick-start (slips sometimes)

Sounds like a plan. If you are still riding it I'd do the head gasket first.

Absolutely overhaul the kickstart including a new ratchet. Sportster Knee is no joke.

Least painful way to go rigid is hardtail the stock frame and retain your existing Harley title.

as for a manual i have one from Haynes.

Upgrade to a factory service manual and parts book before buying other stuff. You can find service manuals for download (and keep a copy on your phone since the file size isn't large).

[Dougtheinternetannoyance123]

If as you say you actually are serious about going fast, then DONT put a springer on it. Springers look cool, but nobody goes all that fast on them. At least I have never been passed by a springer on my sporties. You have a choice of do you want to LOOK cool and have all kinds of goofy poser stuff that impresses hipsters with no real experience or knowledge or,,, Get real respect. Respect comes from those who know and been there-done that by having a well sorted bike that starts well, runs well, and is clean and well maintained.
You dont have to have a lot of money to do that. Nobody gets respect with a bunch of bolt on crap. Neither Live to ride chrome bling,, or the opposite........ bare metal and crusty faux patina. (IE: no $450 retro styled bicycle headlights)
But what is cool is when you look at a scoot and its got a clear vision of competence. IE: no rounded off fasteners, or cobbled up welds, or tons of bondo for "Styling".
I am not saying a person cant have a cool scoot with a springer,, Ive had a few, but you learn quick they weigh a ton usually, dont handle well, ride like shit, pogo on rough surfaces and you cant stop for crap because you cant run a decent brake on them. But they sure do look cool. Some of the fastest coolest bikes out there are Sporties, and they won a LOT of races on the race track.
Personally I would invest in sorting out your bike first, fixing whats worn out, sealing up the leaks, and making it dead on reliable, THEN worry about going fast and looking cool.
If you cant find a free downloadable manual, PM me direct and Ill hook you up. You NEED the factory manual and you NEED the factory parts book for your year. Its useless to attempt working on a scoot with out them.

*IF* you want to get serious about engine performance, start reading on the XL forums about stage tuning 1-2-3-4 and how to do it.
Performance is a package deal. You dont just bolt in cams and go faster. Or drag pipes, Its all about the total package deal. Hence the whole idea of stage tuning. But, back in the day locally, the easiest way to go fast on a Ironhead was to have Baisley performance redo your heads. The difference was night & Day, couple that with upgraded air cleaner, a 2>1 exhaust and dialing in and optimizing your ignition. Dial in the carb just right. Cams are down the road,, stock cams are not bad in most ironheads.
Stock Ironhead heads can be vastly improved with the right knowledge. Not some Gorilla with a grinder either.

See: http://www.baisley.com/services.htm

These guys are famous in HD performance circles for a reason.

Buy one of these and learn the basics.
See: https://www.amazon.com/Harley-Davids.../dp/076030307X

Dont have a lot of money you say??? No problem. This is a local guy who is a friend of mine, Dave used to have a more indepth How-to build thread on his site about how he built this,. But appears he needed the bandwidth and condensed it. But this proves ANYONE can build a righteous scoot for under a grand

See: http://cyclepsycho.com/yamachopper/cheaperchopper.html

Need parts??? Buy some crap from him ask for the Doug promo code special deal,.