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imgur is free pic hosting, fwiw
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Thanks, I'll try it.
So I went to install the exhaust last night and it seems like the studs in the front head are too short. The new flanges I got are maybe a 16th thicker than the old ones on the nut surface but I couldn't get enough threads out to start the nut on both sides at once. I could get one side but not both. I don't think there's any way that even if I could get it started there would be enough thread in the nut to hold tight. Even just sticking the bare flange on there there isn't enough thread to fill the nut. I dunno, I've never done this before, but they just seem too short. I was just messing around with it and discovered that I could unscrew the studs by hand, no wrench or jam nut needed. It seems like they're all gooped up with anti seize. So I figured if I could do that, I might as well get new longer studs. I found some here: http://www.alloyboltz.com that look pretty good. I also found some here https://www.feulingparts.com/product...p?product=3048 But I can't go 70 bucks.Last edited by industrialmarshmallow; 02-12-2019, 5:26 PM.Comment
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Dont screw around with dodgy studs and nuts (Pun?) but on Buells they have a LOT of problems with stripped cyl heads holes for the studs, So PIA to have to repair a head over the issue. I bought a kit on ebay where it comes with a template, , Drills & taps and Timesert thread kits to repair them with new high quality studs. Well worth the investment when in doubt, use new hardware of quality. It totally pays off in the long run. (been there, done that)
So I went to install the exhaust last night and it seems like the studs in the front head are too short. The new flanges I got are maybe a 16th thicker than the old ones on the nut surface but I couldn't get enough threads out to start the nut on both sides at once. I could get one side but not both. I don't think there's any way that even if I could get it started there would be enough thread in the nut to hold tight. Even just sticking the bare flange on there there isn't enough thread to fill the nut. I dunno, I've never done this before, but they just seem too short. I was just messing around with it and discovered that I could unscrew the studs by hand, no wrench or jam nut needed. It seems like they're all gooped up with anti seize. So I figured if I could do that, I might as well get new longer studs. But I can't go 70 bucks.
And, This is just me, But if it were mine id make up a matching front fender (Maybe bobbed a little) but I live in Oregon and it rains like crazy,Comment
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Thanks DougTHIA. Yeah, I'd rather not have to take it to a machine shop. I'm glad the studs aren't stuck, but I didn't expect to be able to spin them out by hand either. I think I'm going to end up going with the AlloyBoltz studs.
BTW, I'm trying imgur for pic hosting and the pics I embedded in the last post looked fine at home but are HUGE on my work PC. How are they displaying for you?Comment
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Aluminum castings are not lock nuts. If the stud doesn't have a lot of slop (more than a non-lock nut on a bare stud) I'd reinstall including the anti-seize (or high temp Loctite but you'd need to remove the anti-seize by flushing with solvent like cheap toluene carb cleaner,) but dry steel/aluminum threaded joints invite moisture intrusion and seizure. I've anti-seized all my exhaust hardware (bikes, cars, trucks, mower engines...) for decades and love the stuff. No stud failures on big twins or Sporties. They are the same parts. I don't care if the nut takes the stud back out with it, the end result is what matters to me.
If it has a lot of slop then Timesert or the ultimate (but more money) keyed inserts.
Longer Grade 8 automotive studs are cheap and work fine. 70 for studs is absurd. A correctly mounted exhaust won't act as a lever arm on that area. Exhaust studs are to locate the exhaust. Exhaust mount brackets support the weight.
Many owners overtorque exhaust studs. Don't be that guy.Last edited by farmall; 02-13-2019, 8:06 AM.Comment
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Most sportsters run decent exhaust supports, i say *MOST* so it does not seem an issue as often, But the design of the Buells lends to more problems with exhaust, (Tube frame and XB) But problems with damaged studs, stripped holes or even damaged heads is common, So do whatever you can to avoid it, On a XB, you have to drop the engine out of the frame for some types of engine work, So its painful when it happens.
As to the pix,, they look AWESOME! good resolution and clarity, Wish everyone on tech threads had such good pix, Same as for stuff for sale. I use a desk top for most internet, And they are not too large or burdensome. I resize some stuff when it matters (On some forums when pasting directly onto the page file sizes are limited) But if the website is not to burdensome, It sounds like Imgur might be a good resource. I might look into that.
I was trying to look last night on some Triumph race bike threads on Jockey Journal and the site is so buggy and locks up my computer, its impossible to read or follow any threads. I might try with my laptop and a different browser to block all the garbage, But some websites are impossible to use.
Chop cult is free for us, but they gotta make money, So we gotta remember it aint charity, but generally this site is pretty easy to use.Comment
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Thanks for the reply. I think the support design on these pipes is pretty good, they're a 2 into 1 with a pretty short reverse cone type silencer, not a lot of weight hanging off the mounting point.
About the front fender, the one that came with the bike was an aftermarket "Springer" style and I wasn't about to put that back on it. I like the way it looks without one, but notice I haven't cut the mounts off...
The pics displayed on my work PC at full high res size, I had to scroll around to read the replies and I hate that. My work has alot of IT security so it's probably some weird setting due to that.Comment
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Browsers don't take up enough space to matter so I run three or four including Tor browser (handy for dodging news site paywalls or visiting sites you don't want to have a record of your presence). I've blocked for so many years I'm not used to seeing adverts. I haven't used Internet Explorer in many years except to download other browsers during a clean install.I was trying to look last night on some Triumph race bike threads on Jockey Journal and the site is so buggy and locks up my computer, its impossible to read or follow any threads. I might try with my laptop and a different browser to block all the garbage, But some websites are impossible to use.
Firefox with uBlock Origin works nicely.
Chrome is better for videos. It gets uBlock Origin too.
A hosts blockfile helps. There are a variety and of course you can combine them because they are simple text files:
Spend an evening learning adblocking and site blocking. It's free and makes the rest of your life using computers MUCH nicer.
BTW any well used Windows install older than a couple of years usually benefits from data backup then clean reinstall, and with SSDs being dirt cheap there's no need to wipe old drives if they've stuff you want to save. If you want an email client I recommend Thunderbird Portable as you can copy the whole program file as a backup then paste it into another Windows install or PC and run it without fuss. Works nicely to archive your messages.Comment
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Finally got the pipes on. I'm pretty happy with them, fit great and I think they look pretty good.
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Its alive.
First start video. Video started recording a split second after the bike fired. And one with better exhaust audio. No carb tuning yet.
Forgot to add that before I started it I did have an issue with the carb puking gas out of the overflow tube when I first put gas in the tank. I tried tightening the bowl screws first and found I could get another 1/8 turn out of all 4. That wasn't it though, so I dropped the bowl and gently worked the float up and down a bunch. I was pretty meticulous when I set the float level back when I rebuilt it so I decided to trust myself and not mess with it. I couldn't see any obvious binding or anything so I just put it back together and tried again. The needle must have just been stuck because the leak stopped.
Last edited by industrialmarshmallow; 02-24-2019, 5:11 PM.Comment
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Hi!!
Im rewiring a 1974 harley w/ the m unit. What is the electronic ignition module? I seem to have everything else connected properly but the starter and coils are just confusing! thanks for any help in advance!Comment
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aalexia1994 you should start a new thread for your question if you want it to be seen. It'll get passed over posting it as a response to a dead thread.Comment
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