Hardtail Shaft Drive Axle question
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P.S., 99% of the shaft drive bobbers I've seen and really liked the looks of have been unstretched bikes.
Including Jasonisdeco's IntrudersComment
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The only way I see getting the mount off if you go the way of the pics is unbolting the hub from the swing arm as they are all incorporated apart from mine then you can remove the wheel. I did contemplate designing mine that way but it was easier for me to get the look I wanted by removing the swingarm completely.
If it helps here is a run through of how I built mine. http://viragotechforum.com/viewtopic...ac4e0e7703bfc7Comment
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Thats a tight fit, its do able if the swingarm plate is 3/8" but I would want a minimum of 1/4" / 6mm plate either side as it has less chance of twisting and more surface area for the axle to sit on. If you could get hold of another axle you could easily make one to suit thats long enough. As long as you keep the wheel lined up with the centre of the bike you wont have any problems then make your frame around it.Comment
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Who's virago is that?
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Hey man, got some input for ya. First, the rear hub is aluminum on your GS, so it’ll be easy to work with. You can unbolt the lower shock mount from it or cut it off. You can see how the pumpkin ‘volcanoes’ out to where it meets the head of your axle? That is where you can the wiggle room necessary for your bike.
Pull your rear wheel, unbolt the rear diff and drain it. If you can machine or have access to a machinist, then you can machine off 1/4”-3/8” from that ‘volcano’ no problem! That give you the space for that side axle plate. The other side has an axle plate already, so you’ll just be replacing it with your new one, or retaining that stock one for your new hardtail. If you cannot machine it, or trust yourself, you can do it with hand tools just fine. Affix the diff in a vice or on your workbench and make sure the ‘volcano’ is facing up and level in all direction. Use a flap disk, sanding disk, or belt sander and start taking off material. Make sure you use aluminum specific disks/pads/wheels etc, the ones meant for steel will get clogged with aluminum and explode. No bueno. Take down as much as you need and make sure it’s still flat and level. Boom, you’ve clearances enough for your axle plate.
Bolt the rear diff back up and keep going. Now as far as servicing goes, it will bolt up and unbolt just fine. Since the axle plates are the same whether it’s swingarm or hardtail. You can ditch the shaft side of the swingarm IF you make a mount that attaches the hardtail to the mounts on the rear diff. The swingarm is the frame that keeps the diff from rotating. So if you ditch that, you need to stabilize it another way(to the hardtail frame). That’s what I did on the silver Intruder, because I wanted to run the shaft drive open. The u joint is open and exposed as well. If I didn’t explain any of that we’ll enough, let me know and I’ll do some janky picture editing to show it better. I can grab pics of ChopSlut too if you need, she’s just sleeping in the barn for now.
Happy Chopping!Comment
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I prefer to build an more conventional frame and uncover the driveshaft. On this XJ I offset the rear of the frame to make room for the gear box without making the whole rear section wider than a double wide.
Other than the seat and chain bars that the owner insisted on I'm real pleased with the look.
DustyDriving that train, high on cocaine
Casey Jones you better, watch your speed
Trouble ahead, trouble behind
And you know that notion just crossed my mind​Comment
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