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Wondering if there is any talk about a kick start kit coming for 04/05 year kick start kit. sadly there are no options just push button. Guess ill have to just put it on the next bike
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Might not be an on the shelf, bolt on kick start available.
That don't mean YOU can't make it happen.
Chop on! -
I was looking for them and Kickstart kits are only up to 03 Evo sportster. For Any newer then 2003 sportster there are no option:/
Here is from JP http://www.jpcycles.com/product/137-813
And here is vid from Led Sled how too install https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2bnomlBT8s
I installed kickstard in 94 EVO and it work good. Almost always second kick works
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I'm saying it would be worth looking into modifying the led sled kit to fit.
Is it possible? MaybeComment
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It's also a thousand bucks for the kit then considerable fuckery if it's even feasible to install a fundamentally decorative part on a motorcycle it wasn't designed for that doesn't need it to function.
Of course chopping is art, not need, but a grand is good chunk of another complete solid mount Sporty or a third or a quarter of a running big twin with a kicker.
Dump a ton of money in a Sportster and it's still a Sportster. Run your personal numbers vs. kicker lust then choose what works for you.
You could call Led Sled but remember rubbermounted Sporties have no trap door so they have to come apart for tranny rebuilds, It's even worse than horizontal split Jap bikes because you can leave the top end on many of them. That means a complete engine removal, teardown, assembly and installation to find out if a kicker is even feasible because you must replace the main shaft or machine the end of the main shaft to mount the inner ratchet gear. No wonder they don't make a kit for those.
Case pics:
Before teardown you get to solve your main shaft problem because it must fit the Led Sled ratchet. The stock shaft is of course heat treated. Precise measuring all the distances involved is required.
See their install video on Youtube.
You'd need a new custom billet pulley cover to mount the kicker and that side of the ratchet.
Maybe worth it to you if you are rebuilding the whole thing anyway, but if the mod has teething troubles due to the main shaft you get to tear it down and reassemble again! Gasket and seal kit, piston rings etc would be the minimum you'd get away with.
You could do a fake kicker with just a cover, kicker arm and shaft, and a micro-switch but machining it is still a lot of work. Link below is for solid mount Sportsters.
At some point the kicker thing becomes retarded. They were necessary when electric starters were shit, batteries were shit, charging systems were shit, and frequent fiddling with ignitions made kickers convenient for turning the engine over.
Evo Sportsters don't have those problems, except the early variety with the goofy alternator on the transmission and if that comes apart then a kicker is no help.
Rubbermount tranny repair labor info:
It's interesting stuff so have more info:
Per Ebay photos of the 35159-06 GEAR, FIFTH-MAINSHAFT on Ebay (drawing sucks) it is bored through for production convenience and just plugged with a seal so a Led Sled style kit could possibly work with a modded mainshaft.
If you were sufficiently motivated to do them on the motorcycle (I'm not) it's probably possible (but much more work than one removal/teardown/assembly/install) to machine a drilling, facing and tapping fixture that would look kind of like the deep front pulleys for wide tire kits and have an outboard flange with swappable machinists guide bushings for a pilot hole drill (pick up the existing center drill hole in the shaft end) tap drill, and a suitable tap.
It's not a backyard job to make the fixture. The fixture would have to be a precision part, but the ratchet halves would of course only engage when kicking so some misalignment between inner and outer ratchet gears (Led Sled would know how much) after final assembly of the kicker cover etc would be acceptable. Fixture should have holes or slots so you can see your shaft and lubricate the tooling.
Since broaching a fixture to fit in place of a pulley would be an asspain for anyone who doesn't make pulleys in the first place would suck and custom broaches aren't cheap unless you machine one and then it would require excessive labor and you'd want the fixture to hold the main shaft in place by putting the trans in gear, you could turn the teeth off a sprocket, press it squarely (have an internal ledge as an accurate stop) into a cylinder made from heavy wall pipe with an outboard flange of your choice (or just turn then bore from solid) to mount tooling and get 'er done that way.
Fixture might benefit from a slotted ear bolted to an existing cover mount, but that would be to stabilize the fixture and not for precise location on the shaft itself.
Some expert opinions on drilling and tapping hardened shafts. (Much love for PM forums):
Remember the mainshaft end is below the outboard end surface of the mainshaft gear and the mainshaft rotates independent of that gear except in the position where they are locked together by the transmission.
Not worth a fixture for one bike.
You could make short work of facing (if needed for some overall depth reason)/drilling/tapping a (removed) shaft in a lathe. A local machinist could do it reasonably
You could figure out the process with parts on the bench before molesting a running engine. Parts should include a right side case etc so you can get an accurate parts stack to work with.
Play and slop between mainshaft gear and shaft would affect fixture precision and might be the deal breaker.
I'm a student-level machinist so the pros might have additional inputs.
Led Sled put a shitload of time, thought and work into figuring out their kit. It just looks like a simple assembly. They earned every dime they get.Last edited by farmall; 08-17-2017, 11:34 AM.Comment
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The only thing different about the ledsled mainshaft is that it is tapped. But as above said, removing it is a motherfucker.Comment
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Some highly motivated machinist with a large enough vertical milling machine could fixture the complete engine on an "engine stand" mounted sideways then bolted to the table T-slots (or if table is wide enough, engine could be bolted to T-slot nuts with spacers for stability) and adjusted level with shim stock, tram the flange of a front pulley (or tram the quill to the pulley, not forgetting to tram it back to table afterwards!) and center the pulley or shaft to the quill (pulley depth would magnify tram errors making it easier to get accurate) then drill and tap the installed transmission shaft.
This is looking disturbingly possible though I still don't want to do one.
With the inner ratchet installed you could dummy a kicker cover using aluminum plate and bolt spacers to figure out measurements.
You might be able to trim/skeletonize a Led Sled kicker cover to fit a custom adapter. Billet isn't terribly expensive so if a thick "slice" adapter would work it would not be too expensive or difficult to machine.
Through-holes in slice would fit existing cover mount screw holes, other holes in slice fit Led Sled cover screws or screws in any new holes desired.
A thin slice adapter could be made from steel plate. Attach plate to engine with countersunk screws, have threaded holes in the plate or if you want it very thin, use countersunk screws inserted from the inboard side and tack welded to the plate. (I've made a couple of Holley carb adapters for my old Scirocco and Dodge D-50 that way out of 3/16" plate then stacked insulators to clear the linkage.)
Don't forget dowels to locate adapter and cover. Bolts don't locate kicker covers and won't hold them precisely under load.
The back of the Led Sled adapter is machined flat where it mounts so thinning that if needed wouldn't be hard:
Centering the dowel supporting the Led Sled cover ratchet gear to the transmission shaft would require precise measurements of all relevant hole centers or maybe making an alignment fitting could be useful. You might take advantage of the hole pictured below since it's centered on the cover ratchet.
Thick billet is more money but you could of course just mill a new cover from solid or two matching billets bolted and dowelled together (obviously bolted/dowelled out of the way of everything else). The precision part isn't the asspain, duplicating the nice outer contour of the Led Sled part (or fins, or dildos, whatever is chopulent to you) would be unless you have CNC. You could also contour it with milling then a flap disc party.
If you want to save a pic that Photobucket no longer hosts for third parties but you find it with Google Image Search, you can at least screenshot the region then save that. Like this one.
Fecalbucket link shows third party hosting disabled:
Pic is screenshot. Zoom to view as needed.Attached FilesLast edited by farmall; 08-17-2017, 4:41 PM.Comment
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The ledsled kicker cover does not fit via dowels. The ratchet gear actually floats above the transmission gear and there is no contact anywhere on the cover to any of the parts on the bike besides the mating face. I have been using it exclusively to start my bike for the past 2 years. I think any misalignment is made up by the ramps on the face of the gear. The design is pretty simple, I am sure it's doable to make a rubber mount kickstarter, just that it's impractical to split the cases to change the mainshaft.Some highly motivated machinist with a large enough vertical milling machine could fixture the complete engine on an "engine stand" mounted sideways then bolted to the table T-slots (or if table is wide enough, engine could be bolted to T-slot nuts with spacers for stability) and adjusted level with shim stock, tram the flange of a front pulley (or tram the quill to the pulley, not forgetting to tram it back to table afterwards!) and center the pulley or shaft to the quill (pulley depth would magnify tram errors making it easier to get accurate) then drill and tap the installed transmission shaft.
This is looking disturbingly possible though I still don't want to do one.
With the inner ratchet installed you could dummy a kicker cover using aluminum plate and bolt spacers to figure out measurements.
You might be able to trim/skeletonize a Led Sled kicker cover to fit a custom adapter. Billet isn't terribly expensive so if a thick "slice" adapter would work it would not be too expensive or difficult to machine.
Through-holes in slice would fit existing cover mount screw holes, other holes in slice fit Led Sled cover screws or screws in any new holes desired.
A thin slice adapter could be made from steel plate. Attach plate to engine with countersunk screws, have threaded holes in the plate or if you want it very thin, use countersunk screws inserted from the inboard side and tack welded to the plate. (I've made a couple of Holley carb adapters for my old Scirocco and Dodge D-50 that way out of 3/16" plate then stacked insulators to clear the linkage.)
Don't forget dowels to locate adapter and cover. Bolts don't locate kicker covers and won't hold them precisely under load.
The back of the Led Sled adapter is machined flat where it mounts so thinning that if needed wouldn't be hard:
Centering the dowel supporting the Led Sled cover ratchet gear to the transmission shaft would require precise measurements of all relevant hole centers or maybe making an alignment fitting could be useful. You might take advantage of the hole pictured below since it's centered on the cover ratchet.
Thick billet is more money but you could of course just mill a new cover from solid or two matching billets bolted and dowelled together (obviously bolted/dowelled out of the way of everything else). The precision part isn't the asspain, duplicating the nice outer contour of the Led Sled part (or fins, or dildos, whatever is chopulent to you) would be unless you have CNC. You could also contour it with milling then a flap disc party.
If you want to save a pic that Photobucket no longer hosts for third parties but you find it with Google Image Search, you can at least screenshot the region then save that. Like this one.
Fecalbucket link shows third party hosting disabled:
Pic is screenshot. Zoom to view as needed.
Your idea of machining the shaft while in the motor is possible, I doubt the shaft is through hardened, more likely case hardened. Honestly, I suspect you could even be up to .010 off center with your threading and it would still work just fine.Comment
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