Triumph chopper build "Mi Ruca"

[beerslave]

Going to throw together a triumph chopper I have been collecting parts for over a year for. Its going to have a rebuilt 73 t120v engine in a 68 frame. I have already purchased a factory metalworks hardtail 4 inch stretch 2 inch drop with oif axle plates because I plan on running a 19 inch conical hub rear wheel. I have attached pictures of the parts I will be using, this is my first documented build hope everyone enjoys!

[Sky]

Looks good so far!
But I gotta ask...
What's so 'Murica about a pile of Limey parte with a Jappo tank?

[beerslave]

[QUOTE=Sky;766706]Looks good so far!
But I gotta ask...
What's so 'Murica about a pile of Limey parte with a Jappo tank?[/Haha mi Ruca does not mean Murica a Ruca is slang for an old chola. Pronounced rooca!

[beerslave]

Currently got an old springer I'm getting rebuilt and cups made to fit on the triumph neck, ran into some clearance issues with the stock lock tabs so I had to grind them down.

[beerslave]

Tried to install the motor in the frame by myself today but was unsuccessful, too fucking hot in the garage and with my sweaty arms couldn't hold on good enough. Going to have to wait for a buddy to help me set this thing in, is it even possible to install the motor with the rocker boxes on?!

[remo]

if you can't round up a buddy try laying engine on its side and putting frame on engine.

[Dougtheinternetannoyance123]

Darn near impossible with the Rocker boxs on,, somewhat possible with at least the 4 big long bolts removed... but still. Better off removing the Rocker boxs,, then its easy. I can dead lift a whole motor in,, but its not for everybody. Plus its best to have a helper to stick the bolts in at the front and bottom,, the rest is easy.

As Remo said,,, many people lay the engine on a blanket or foam pad on its side and fit the frame over the motor. (Did that with a number of Honda 4 cyls and HD sporties)

Best also NOT to tighten down any of the bolts until you get them all in. The top 4 bolts have to go in kinda an angle typically as they dont clear the frame easily. (pre 71 frames and motors) but you have a 72 motor from an OIF going into an early frame,,,
The factory found out the hard way mid production that the new frames for the OIF were an issue for clearance and they were behind 6 months fixing the issue. Thus the rocker boxs and top bolts all redesigned. The point is to be aware of it. Still the same issue for you, but most people dont know and you have to know what cyl head you have so you use the right hardware and correct matching rocker boxs.

(if building a bike from a pile of parts it might not be obvious)

Yours has the nice later style big oval rocker covers. (Me like those!) nicer to adjust rockers that way. One point you might be aware of.
A T120V has a 5 speed. Some think thats an improvement but truth is its STILL 1:1 ratio in top gear. The point of the 5 speed is to keep the revs in the sweet spot and more gears allows that. Cafe racers and road racers love them. Not so great on the street. To make them fit the existing gear boxs, they had to compromise. They tend to be brittle and weak. Plus the mainshaft top gear instead of a bushing for the main shaft has 2 needle bearing assy. Many people run the GB too low on oil and this destroys some expensive parts. If you run it,, be obsessive about gear oils.. and topping off. Dont bang gears either. Hard to get parts for them. The late model 4 speed is considered superior by most. If your motor has a lot of miles,, chances are the gears are good ones. But there was a lot of bad gears and defective heat treats.. (Quaife made these units) so,,1st and second tended to break.

[Guest]

That's looking great mate.

There's something about the old Triumph engines. They really do look different & classy compared to an old HD or Japanese engine.

Are you going to reuse the old Triumph tank & rear mudguard?

[kendall666]

I had to put my rockers on to get the motor in. Clearance was too tight with a mid 60s front loop and the size of my jug. Not too sure on the year of the change but certain years have a 6 1/4 inch jug and others have a 6 1/2. Makes it impossible to get the rockers on without having the motor in the frame and rocking it out towards one side. Definitely a two person job. Good luck with it, interested to see your build.

[Sky]

Haha! I stand corrected

Head bolt/studs out, valve caps off, and it'll wiggle in there.

That kicker pedal is pretty sweet, brass?

[beerslave]

That's looking great mate.

There's something about the old Triumph engines. They really do look different & classy compared to an old HD or Japanese engine.

Are you going to reuse the old Triumph tank & rear mudguard?

No, I have an old wassell style peanut tank I am going to use as well as an old wassell style ribbed fender.

Haha! I stand corrected

Head bolt/studs out, valve caps off, and it'll wiggle in there.

That kicker pedal is pretty sweet, brass?

Thanks, the pedal is actually made of steel its was just polished up.

[Dougtheinternetannoyance123]

I had to put my rockers on to get the motor in. Clearance was too tight with a mid 60s front loop and the size of my jug. Not too sure on the year of the change but certain years have a 6 1/4 inch jug and others have a 6 1/2. Makes it impossible to get the rockers on without having the motor in the frame and rocking it out towards one side. Definitely a two person job. Good luck with it, interested to see your build.

I am not sure what he is talking about here. Maybe a heavily modified frame? As to the cyls (jugs) the 750 cyl on the short rod 750s (1974 and up) were roughly a 1/4 shorter. Easy to spot. One less fin than a 650. But there was a transition 725cc long rod 750 as well circa 1973 so there is that.

Look at the parts book illustration for a 1971 and later twin top end, and compare to a 1970 and earlier twin illustration and it becomes obvious the difference. I can take a picture of the parts as well if you like, I have a bunch of cyl heads on the bench and can lay out the parts if you like.
But I have a LOT of old triumphs and been wrenching on them since the late 1970s and in my opinion, its easier to install the motors without the rocker boxs on. YRMV. (Your Results May Vary)

[beerslave]

Well I finally got the motor installed, ended up removing the rocker boxes and laying the engine on its side. Was a pain in the ass but finally got it in. Just waiting for my springer to be finished so I can put the front end on and the rear wheel to have a roller. I have to order the bottom motor mount and spacers as well as new rocker box gaskets as I tore the old ones while removing the rocker boxes.

[kendall666]

I am not sure what he is talking about here. Maybe a heavily modified frame? As to the cyls (jugs) the 750 cyl on the short rod 750s (1974 and up) were roughly a 1/4 shorter. Easy to spot. One less fin than a 650. But there was a transition 725cc long rod 750 as well circa 1973 so there is that.

Look at the parts book illustration for a 1971 and later twin top end, and compare to a 1970 and earlier twin illustration and it becomes obvious the difference. I can take a picture of the parts as well if you like, I have a bunch of cyl heads on the bench and can lay out the parts if you like.
But I have a LOT of old triumphs and been wrenching on them since the late 1970s and in my opinion, its easier to install the motors without the rocker boxs on. YRMV. (Your Results May Vary)

My motor is a mut, but was totally rebuilt by a reputable triumph mechanic. i'm not really sure what cylinder year i have but i do know it is a 1/4 inch longer than some others my buddy has on the bench. Either way i got my motor in but it was tight.

That kicker pedal is badass. Looking forward to this build.

[beerslave]

Ok how the hell do you put these rocker boxes on, do I need to chop the head stay tabs or something because I can't for the life of me get enough room to install the rocker boxes.?!?!