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  1. #21
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    That new ign. system requires a gold cup ... Don't think it comes with the kit ...



    OEM No: 32402-83 Ignition timer sensor cup.
    Could be the earlier cup ... Check your instructions....
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-19-2017 at 3:32 PM.

  2. #22
    ChivaKnievel
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    That new ign. system requires a gold cup ... Don't think it comes with the kit ...



    OEM No: 32402-83 Ignition timer sensor cup.
    Could be the earlier cup ... Check your instructions....
    It did come with one actually so I should be good on that end, but thank you.


    And just as a note, anyone reading carefully should notice that no one in this thread suggested to me I buy the ultra ignition before I did; I had planned on doing that in the future regardless of my current issue and it seemed appropriate to go ahead with it now. My now likely fired single fire coil was a separate stupidity, if you will. And yes, practically I should have just pulled out a multimeter as soon as my troubles began, but not having one with me at the moment and the problem seeming more or less straightforward I didn't bother. Again call me stupid, but if I was trying to be entirely pragmatic about the thing I wouldn't be riding a 45 year old ironhead in the first place.
    As to the generator, I'll see about that after I get it fired up again since I should at least be able to do that with a fresh battery.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #23
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    More than likely you didn't do any damage to the new coil.... Unless you left the key on overnight...


  4. #24
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    I just kept seeing 'new coil!' and that's not how you progress through electrical, you get your meter out n start testing.

  5. #25

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    I'm puzzled.
    To stop the engine on my bike I hit the run/stop switch on the throttle fixture. That breaks the circuit from gen/batt through the ign sw, coil, and points to ground.
    With the circuit open there would be no current through the coil and points.
    Leaving the key in the on position would result in power being consumed by other components, especially the lights.

    Perhaps you just need a new battery.
    btw - I've just stuck a Duracell SLAA12-1.3F into my '73 XLCH. Costs about $20, and is about 3" x 2" x 1". I'm not sure how long it'll last, but I like how small it is.

  6. #26
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    When testing Harley ignitions I remove both plugs and either replace them with two I tack welded together (best method, use two pair for Jap four bangers) or use safety wire,a rubber band or a worm drive hose clamp to hold the bodies together. Stock coils fire pole-to-pole and that method ensures good continuity through both spark plugs.

    Otherwise it sucks to keep the plugs grounded while kicking. If one side isn't grounded (really meaning continuity through the engine to the other spark plugs body) or poorly grounded you'll get inaccurate results.

    Seaking is right about replacing points and condenser at the same time, and Chevy six banger points/condenser are cheap at any auto store.

    Next Farmall will chime in here and say "heehaw it's great to have spares on the shelf they ain't getting any cheaper." Bullshit. Buy it once and fix what's broke.
    Heehaw! It IS great to have spare points, condensers and an advance mechanism stashed because you don't have to go fetch a fresh set from a store at zero notice. I don't tell people to blindly shitcan everything but there's no "buy it once" on consumable parts. I don't buy asswipe by the sheet either.

    I don't tell people not to troubleshoot. Being prepared is never a bad thing.

    Testing a coil takes a moment with a multimeter, and you can always disconnect the coil lead to the ignition no matter what you run then ground and unground rapidly with a test lead observing for spark. If no spark with good power to coil, coil is fucked.

    T-shooting the original problem should have taken a few minutes.

    Perform a charging system test at leisure but that's not the IGNITION problem. Don't overthink shit. The ignition system wouldn't care if you had no generator so long as the battery is charged.

    If you have intermittent ignition problems you can bypass the key switch if its internal contacts are suspect. That nails a lot of folks who don't expect it. I get about ten years out of common Drag Specialties etc key switches.

    An incandescent test light or any 12v bulb and socket with pigtails and a couple of test leads with gator clips are cheap and effective.
    Last edited by farmall; 06-03-2017 at 4:59 AM.

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