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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post

    Tattoo is more righter than Mr Annoyance, in my humble opinion.
    Thank you Sky....

  2. #22

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    I'm running an old clapped out amal with boyer . As long as it's tickled it fires first kick, its all set up and in my case luck!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by mttm View Post
    I'm running an old clapped out amal with boyer . As long as it's tickled it fires first kick, its all set up and in my case luck!
    Yep now I totally agree with that.... That's the same as a prime kick..... But a Mikuni doesn't have that function...

  4. #24
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    Thanks Doug. Besides the helpful tips you convinced me it can ce done. I'm on it.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanonevol View Post
    Thanks Doug. Besides the helpful tips you convinced me it can ce done. I'm on it.
    Good luck.... Let us know how you come out.....

  6. #26
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    Will do.

  7. #27
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    So maybe this guy sets his float(s) too high, letting the bike be in a constant state of "prime"

  8. #28
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    Sky, could you elaborate on that please? Meanwhile, the manual is on the way and I sent a quick query to Sudco who suggested maybe my pilots are too small or clogged. The bike came with some extra jets which is cool and Whitworth tools etc. Kind of funny that I need three sets of tools for this Triumph!

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanonevol View Post
    The primer kicks don't count - I like that! But still it needs those 3 kicks and I'd like to bring it to a finer point of tune. The Mikuni manual is on order - thanks for that - and I'm sure it will explain the idle screw which I don't understand what it does as the point of it is in the middle of the barrel and doesn't go into a jet of any kind. Thanks for taking the time for the replies - much appreciated. Lots of good info for me here. I'm real stubborn and determined and have a lot to learn but I'm handier than most and I'll get there. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
    I dont prime kick, it starts anyway so i guess its a minus 2 kick bike😃 enormous difference starting a hotrodded 750 and a tiny little 500 though. I dont even need to force it down.

  10. #30
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    Was talking to a local guy who has some problems with his Mickey-Roonies running too rich. ( Mikuni jets are #ed backwards so likey instead of smaller jets he got larger ones instead) but I was looking for a link to Victory library and my links were dead. I just found the new links so you might also want to look at this page, I have some of the Victory library stuff and IMHO their stuff is top notch,
    see: http://victorylibrary.com/MIK-BT.htm

    This is not like the generic manual that came with your carburetor, but begins where they leave off, and goes far beyond into fine tuning. Not an expert mechanic? You’ll still find this useful to identify what adjustments and parts you need. All parts are easily available all over the world at reasonable prices. If you’ve considered using a Mikuni, you should read this product.
    I guarantee that you’ll find information in this product you’ve never seen before, and that will help you plan and complete your carburetor conversion.
    Consider this: if this product saves you from making even a single mistake or bad purchase, or gives you one new idea, doesn’t that make this purchase worth while? The price is less than that of tuning components you may not need, and only a small fraction of what you will invest in the carburetors - plan more intelligently, and get better results.
    Contents are 42 pages (over 30,000 words), including 20 black & white illustrations & diagrams, plus 35 data tables including 9 jetting tables containing specific trial jetting suggestions for motors based on displacement and carburetor size: 17 entries for single carburetor, 24 entries for individual carburetors. This is far more specific content on these engines than any other source. The subject matter includes:
    Mikuni VM vs. Amal Monobloc & Concentric; differences in components and function.
    Carburetor selection; choice of size depending on displacement, head, intake manifold, cam timing.
    Tuning components; which parts can be adjusted or substituted to change mixture & when, where the parts are located, how to remove them, what the markings & sizes mean, which jet types are correct for each model.
    Needle jets: 2-stroke vs. 4-stroke, primary vs. bleed type.
    Needles sorted by length & marking; analyzing needle tapers, which needles are used in which carburetors & why.
    Adjusting mixture for hot cams, alternate exhaust systems including TT pipes, megaphones, diagnosing and correcting mixture based on symptoms, using a vacuum gauge.
    Dynamometer testing; how to prepare, tools & supplies.
    Tuned length intake manifold; how to make calculations for more power, including 5 Tables of pre-calculated manifold lengths based on cam duration, RPM, etc.
    Dual carburetor conversion; how to convert your single-carburetor twin (TR6, &c.) to dual carburetors, selecting size, how to make your own individual manifolds from common materials.
    Tunnel-ram intake manifold; more power for single-carburetor racers with theory, calculations and dimensions, including illustrations and 2 Tables of pre-set data.
    Tuned “Helmholtz” resonator; add an air box for power, discusses theory, calculation and dimensions, including 5 Tables of pre-set data.
    Increased airflow with the UFO and similar devices.
    Air cleaner; how to select & improve an air cleaner for more air flow.
    Jetting tables; specific trial (initial starting point) jetting suggestions for motors based on displacement, single or twin cylinder, single or dual carburetor(s), carburetor size.
    Velocity stacks and ram tubes; how they work, which ones are best.
    Jetting for alcohol; discusses jetting changes for methanol, ethanol, advantages, maintenance, safety.
    Sample Worksheet; to prompt you to keep records of changes vs. effects
    Most dimensions are given in fractional inches, decimal inches and metric for the convenience of tuners in all languages.
    VICTORY LIBRARY has been a respected source of technical literature on older motorcycles since 1971. This information is not reprinted from other articles, magazines, or factory literature and is not available anywhere else, and not included in any of my other books; click here for other related titles: Victory Library booklets. I’ve also written booklets on Amal Concentric Tuning for British motorcycles: Amal Concentric Tuning for British motorcycles and Amal Monobloc Tuning for British motorcycles Amal Monobloc Tuning for British motorcycles, and one on the Linkert Model “M” brass carburetor, used on all older Harley-Davidson & Indian models: Tuning the Linkert Model “M” brass carburetor.
    Please note: this is not a repair manual. If your bike won’t start, the float bowl leaks, the spark plugs foul, &c. my product will not help you. It does not contain information on tune-ups, or explain how to remove, disassemble, clean, repair or rebuild the carburetor. If you do not already have this information please, don’t buy this product yet. If your engine is stock and you’re pleased with how it runs now, this product will not be of much use, although you might find it interesting. This is not a coffee table book, it is intended to be a research tool for those who want to make serious use of their Mikuni VM carburetors.

  11. #31
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    Excuse me, but mikuni jets are not numbered backwards, or maybe i dont understand what you mean? Orifice size rise with the numbers. Difference is Amals are flow rated(200 main flows 200cc's per minute)
    But i dont fully understand the difference between bs (round)and vm (hex) jets. Checked some with my jet reamers and hole sizes and numbers differed slightly.

  12. #32
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    The numbering system can be interpreted several ways,,, When the OP gets the Mikuni-SUDCO tuning manual this explains it in detail, (Same with the victory library book as well) But I was talking in specifics to the idle jet. On many carbs, a bigger number means more flow, but Mikunis do it differently or OPPOSITE,, so pay attention to the numbering system. In this case ( I might be Bass-ackwards) But IIRC a bigger idel jet means more air and is leaner. Where other carbs a bigger jet # would be richer. Just follow the manual, it makes it really clear.

    But theres other issues as well, Which I was not talking about, but since you brought it up and someone might get the wrong idea
    then it should be mentioned.
    See: http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/t500_files/mikuni.pdf

    This guy gets into the meat of the matter,, (Good to know)

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by mttm View Post
    I'm running an old clapped out amal with boyer . As long as it's tickled it fires first kick, its all set up and in my case luck!
    British bikes like to have plenty of fuel for start up, that's the advantage with Amals, Mikunis are great carbs and are a lot smoother on twins and triples but no tickler, as long as there is a good spark your fine, my T160 will fire pretty much first time every time, with the Amals flooded and it has Lucas RITA ignition which is a wasted spark system.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricky13 View Post
    my T160 will fire pretty much first time every time, with the Amals flooded and it has Lucas RITA ignition which is a wasted spark system.
    Yep I totally agree..... That's the same thing as a prime kick..... How many times does it take if you don't flood the carbs????????

  15. #35
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    Thanks for the link to the Victory site. I ordered the Mikuni Super Tuning file. Not sure of the significance but Boyer Bransden is wasted spark as well, no?
    Last edited by Nanonevol; 04-24-2017 at 7:29 AM.

  16. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Yep I totally agree..... That's the same thing as a prime kick..... How many times does it take if you don't flood the carbs????????
    Never really bothered to try as if i don't leave the fuel tap on the float chambers will be half empty anyway, so unless i am starting it within 5 mins of stopping it will always need a tickle.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricky13 View Post
    Never really bothered to try as if i don't leave the fuel tap on the float chambers will be half empty anyway, so unless i am starting it within 5 mins of stopping it will always need a tickle.

    I don't blame you for not trying, I was just wondering if you had???

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanonevol View Post
    Thanks for the link to the Victory site. I ordered the Mikuni Super Tuning file. Not sure of the significance but Boyer Bransden is wasted spark as well, no?
    Correct, The Boyer is ALSO a wasted Spark, I am not sure if there finally is a single fire ignition for British twins yet, but all the electronic ignitions I am aware of are all wasted spark, Which is not as bad as it seems. On a HD I totally support going to a single fire system. I have played with a few of the Lucas Ritas and they are okay but they were a bit overly complicated compared to a Boyer and a lot more wiring and stuff so not as appealing on a stripped down custom. Over the years I know some guys who really preferred the Rita and used to be a couple real good resources for support, parts and tech for them on several other forums but most faded away. I am not knocking the Rita
    (lovely Rita-Meter maid) but for the average guy the Boyer makes more sense.
    My friend Veli in Finland is complaining that after 25 years and 200,000 miles on his Triumph that he has to replace his Boyer and while it still works, he is upgrading to a newer unit. The newer units are less voltage sensitive. Its common to see guys with the older boyers rev their engines or switch off the lights if the charging system was not in top shape. New models will run on as low as 8 volts without cutting out.

    There are high output charging systems that eliminate many of the problems the original charging systems had, especially at low RPMs, I used to have a shop customer I finally got rid of (Happy day) and he did not understand the concepts. He lived in the city and rode stop light to stop light. His system never put out enough current to support full lighting, turn signals (1971 Bonnie, mostly stock) Ignition & Charging. At my shop I was out in the country side and would get up some speed and RPMS, no problems. I tried explaining it and also how the pilot lights worked on the stock bikes. The factory back in 71 had it setup and instructed owners that in city traffic to use the pilot light which was a small bulb with low demands on the system. Once the revs rose a bit or you left the city then switch to full lights. Jon never accepted that and blamed the mechanic. You can now buy high output altenators and stators that will run everything and even heated grips and vest.

  19. #39
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    Interesting. My bike's CL description said it has a 3 stage charging system of some sort. Obviously I know little about these things yet but it sure sound like a good thing. Starting seems easier with the NGK plugs compared to the Autolites, I think but I'm still using the prime kick method.
    Meanwhile, I have the literature and it's all good but doesn't answer all my questions. For example, I was all set to blast down the street for the first time today when I noticed I was creating a puddle. Gas was pouring out the the tube that comes from the bottom of the bowl of the right hand carb. Now I'll definitely be taking them apart. Can anyone tell me what's going on with this?
    One thing I learned is that if the mixture screw is set at only half a turn out one should go to a larger size pilot so I could make this change as well.

  20. #40
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    Sounds like a sticking float, check the fuel source and flush it, a bit of dirt or rust or just crappy fuel (Any fuel with oxygeneated which is with ethanol is crappy fuel) can cause this. pull the float needle and flush out, check float operation. If the floats are not set right it will also run rich (Smoke and fouled plugs).

    What size jets do you have? What does the literature tell you? Thats the point of having the data, check all the settings and jets, slide, needle etc.
    "Setting up the VM Mikuni's for a British twin is not difficult. The following list is a starting point, make adjustments as required by road testing.

    On a 650/750 Twin (Triumph &/or Norton) for a PAIR of Mikuni VM's 32mm dia, use pilot 20-25, throttle slide 2.5, needle jet type 159, needle jet size P-2, P-4, needle 6DH2, 3, or 4, Main 220-230, air jet 1.0.

    On a 850 Norton for a SINGLE Mikuni VM 34mm dia, use pilot 30-35, throttle slide 3, needle jet type 159, needle jet size P-4, P-6, needle 6DH3 or 4, Main 260, air jet 1.0."

    On a cold bike, use the enrichener levers, and one kick (NO Throttle). Should start EVERY time like that

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