CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search

Hybrid View

  1. #1

    Default 4 Speed Clutch Fun: Round 500000

    Sorry for the long-ish post, but I've been away from my shovel for almost a year and finally getting back into it. I'm in the process of adding a tech cycle starter, because of awesome knee issues--I now can't kick start it. Fitting it in there required a bit of fuckery, including the need for a custom clutch release arm which I just bent up. So I decided (reluctantly) to pop open the kicker cover since I'd been having some clutch adjustment issues prior to throwing it back on the lift.

    I switched back to the older (repop) cone style throwout bearing, and found that it got jammed up and would no longer spin (it was not over-tightened). The outer retainer that holds the two pieces of the bearing together skipped up and out of the two little slots where they are pressed in, which usually hold that piece from spinning, and basically seized the whole thing. This doesn't show what happened, but here's a pic for reference:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170326_214455.jpg 
Views:	2 
Size:	310.3 KB 
ID:	75873

    That ended up wearing down my clutch pushrod a bit, which ended up being my adjustment problem. I should note that I'm running Baker kicker gears in there, and the smaller ratchet gear doesn't have the little ball and spring that normally lines up with the little notch on the inside of the cone style bearing and keeps it from spinning around the gear. Perhaps this doesn't work? Pissed off with the shitty bearing, I decided to take it out of there and swap it over to one of the "upgraded" wafer bearing setups. Now I have some fun new problems...

    The push rod doesn't come out past the seal when pressed all the way in, and the finger is backed up against the inside of the kicker cover. I realized this, of course, AFTER I went through the trouble of welding the slinger to the pushrod and filing the bearing surface down to be perfectly flat and perpendicular to the rod. So the push rod is short, that I know. It's 14" long from tip to tip, and the next longest one I can find anywhere is only 14-1/8". That doesn't help me a ton.

    Here's some pics of the push rod all the way in, and then out (clutch arm pulled as far forward as possible).
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170326_214558.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	306.9 KB 
ID:	75871Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170326_214626.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	305.4 KB 
ID:	75872

    I'm running a bit of a frankenstein tranny: STD case, S&S kicker cover, Baker kicker gears, tech cycle starter mounts on its own mainshaft bearing support, primo open belt, and pro clutch. The pro clutch doesn't take a tremendous amount of throw to release, but this rod seems to be so short that it takes quite a bit of movement from the release arm in order to get the rod to extend out past the seal. Are there longer push rods anywhere? I can't seem to find longer that 14-1/8" and I'm not sure that'll help me much. OR if anyone has an OEM cone style bearing I will gladly take it off your hands. Thanks

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    147

    Default

    I've made longer adjustment bolts for a few different applications. This might be an option for you.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    2,913

    Default

    Those cone bearings are the way to go. Usually last "forever". A lack of gear oil will kill the wafer style way faster than the cone, just sayin'.
    I wouldn't have welded on a heat treated bearing!
    If the fingers are (almost) against the kicker cover at rest...
    Looks like its time to stretch that push rod or shorten it, and stretch the adjuster screw. Seal needs something to seal against.
    If the fingers are not (almost)against the cover at rest, look at the clutch arm geometry again. before attacking the rod/adjuster assembly.

  4. #4

    Default

    I've been trying to locate an oem cone style bearing for a while, but haven't had any luck. The repops just seem to be pieces of shit, or at least the one I have is, from eastern I think.

    I only welded the slinger to the rod, and not the bearing or thrust washers. Brand new, the slinger was flopping around on the rod end so I tacked it on there as I've seen some others do, and then filed down the slinger surface a bit so the bearing will get even pressure.

    Just talked to someone at Baker about what they use with their kicker gears, and they said the same thing. The repop cone style just sucks, and they've switched over to a "heavy duty" wafer style that they make, and have had success with that. Looks to be the same as the upgraded larger wafer bearing kits you can get from v-twin. Gonna ask him if theirs is any different or more durable.

    The clutch arm sits right where it should when I push the rod back through to where it's basically sitting against the cover, so I should be ok if I get the push rod length sorted out, or the adjuster screw as mentioned. Cory, on the longer adjustment bolts that you've made, do you leave the part that contacts the seal, unthreaded? It would seem to me like having a threaded bolt going through, wouldn't seal very well. Any particular kind of steel I should use if I have to make my own rod or adjuster?

    Thanks for the feedback.
    Last edited by Incrediblah; 03-27-2017 at 12:03 PM. Reason: spelling police

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    2,913

    Default

    Yup, gotta have a smooth surface of the correct diameter to let that seal do it's job.
    Steel needs to be hardened at the contact points. I've had luck with a ball bearing "floating" in the rod stack, if all ya need is that li'l bit.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    147

    Default

    Oh yeah I used socket set screw. I think it was a 7/16" x 3-1/2" or so. Then I chucked it in the lathe and took the threads off a portion of it to fit the seal. I also wondered about hardening the end of it but haven't had it show any signs of wear. I've had one in my bike for like 6 years.

Share This



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in